The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

In the meantime, the cooling system is fully plumbed up now has been filled and the water pump ran to check for leaks of which there are none though it may be a different story when hot and at a higher pressure.

I've canabalised an old thermostat to make an orifice plate to put a slight restriction into the system to make sure the water is forced through all of the head so as to reduce the chance of hot spots at the rear too...



......though with the hot feed to the heater coming from the back of the head that will probably cause coolant to be drawn all around the back any way....



I've not quite organised where the wires are going yet but they will be tidied and made less like a Rat's nest at some point!

Re your wiring the lucas colour convention is that brown is permanent live and white is ignition fused.

The non fused side is on the left of the fuse box and the fused side outputs are on the right.

Purple circuit feeds go with the brown input and green circuit feeds go with the white.

I'd suggest chucking that fuse box for a 4 fuse MGB one or doubling up so that one circuit doesnt take
out the fuse for a whole lot...e.g. overdrive short looses indicators and wipers and instruments.

If you havent had that latter "useful" fault then you havent had a dolomite very long...

Jonners

shaunroche wrote:

Carledo wrote:.....the unfused feeds on the left (as you look at it) and the outputs on the right. Yours has one going each way!

Steve

As ever, cheers Steve....do you mean it should be purple on the right and brown on the left?

Yes!

Steve

Dolly-Dimple wrote:This is awesomeness Absolutely gorgeous build

Kind Regards

Russell.

Cheers Russell!

The intention has always been for the build to be as good as I can get it and for it to be good enough to put on the club stand at a show whilst being useable for sprint competitions.

I was trying to get it ready for the NEC this year but a run of being let down by suppliers and others either sending parts that are not as described or not doing as they promised means it won't be ready unfortunately. I really appreciate the comments though!!

Having said that, the help and patience I get on this forum is nothing short of World class so big smiles!!

Jon Tilson wrote:Re your wiring the lucas colour convention is that brown is permanent live and white is ignition fused.

The non fused side is on the left of the fuse box and the fused side outputs are on the right.

Purple circuit feeds go with the brown input and green circuit feeds go with the white.

Jonners

So, brown left, purple right, Green left, white right?

Looking at the Haynes manual, what I have is correct....it's just upside down actually ?

Steve....any more thoughts on the coil wire please?

Top left brown, top right purple, bottom left white, bottom right green.

Use the linked fuseboard if you are going for the MGB box and put the white leads to the linked sides thus sharing one feed between two fuses then put half the green wires on each of the two linked fuses. You will then have a "spare" fuse to do with as you will!

Steve

Carledo wrote:Top left brown, top right purple, bottom left white, bottom right green.

Use the linked fuseboard if you are going for the MGB box and put the white leads to the linked sides thus sharing one feed between two fuses then put half the green wires on each of the two linked fuses. You will then have a "spare" fuse to do with as you will!

Steve

Phew, that could've been exciting if I'd left it like I'd got it!

Every day's a school day!

Cheers!!

With a couple of extra wires thrown in.

Cheers Mart, it's dawning slowly!.....what's the white wire at 12 o'clock? I haven't got one of those!

I can't remember what the white wire was for (it was about 15 years ago). But it looks like I've tapped off, for some accessory or other, from the 10V side. doh!

Nah mart you did it right....
The dark green is battery in, the light green is instrument nominal out.

Just as Steve said you can put the linked side on a white input....

The important one is to separate your most likely fuse blower so it doesnt take out the other stuff....

and of course thats the overdrive wire up the gearstick.....

There isnt much too important on the purple side but I find 3 ignition based fuses adequate.

Jonners

Ah! yes, I have the VS upside-down.

With that above and this below, no wonder I've been confused!

That solves nothing...

All the green circuits are still on one fuse. The others are doubled up and do whatever the red wires go to.
Presumably acsessories or lighting relays?

The o-d could still take out everything useful like instruments, indicators and wipers and heater.

Jonners

To have circuits on seperate feeds - white feed from the ignition and brown feed from the battery additional cabling will be required from there sources.

When I upgrade my lights to halogen, I rewired my loom adding in additional feeds white and brown cables, white came from the ignition switch and browns from the battery also a 10 way blade fuse unit - NO corners were cut with this rewire. Picture attached of my fuse box situated in the car same spot as the original fuse box.

Click on the picture and zoom in for a better look.



Paul