The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Jon the Manifold is like that to clear the Bonnet i guess.

This is how my Linkage setup ended up from using the SU Linkages.
Just need to weld the link between the carbs and its all ready to go on the car.

Well i am still having trouble with Number one and its compression, but the car still runs good.

Going to do oil change tonight (as there could be excess fuel etc in the oil) and get out for a cruise the next night.
Taking it easy etc.

Any way how they look.
Got the PiperCross Filters direct from the NZ agent for a good price, feel like a good filter with no restrictions etc.

They look goooood. How does it drive?

2F45T4U wrote: They look goooood. How does it drive?

Being Honest i haven't driven it far yet.
I just got it all back together etc.
Gunna change its oil tomorrow night and go for a cruise and get a new batch of fuel.
Then start tuning it, idle just needs to come up a little bit but it starts pretty good from cold with no choke etc.

They sound great to, feels very very very tourqy now.

good job stew, they look the goods and I hope they give you that extra oomph !

After a good couple of hours f$$king with the floats i got them at the right heights adjusting them .5mm at a time, the car now runs sweet idle sits at 500rpm when cold and 800rpm when shes warmed up and is nice and stable.

4th gear foot flat to the floor there is some juice there now.

I was thinking today hmm i haven't updated on here for a while. In this Thread.

THe car seems to be going very well and i am doing some good mileage in it.
After putting the 48s on.

I have since been after A new Dizzy cap and Rotor, and have found i can use a Mini one which i can buy off the shelf.
I have brought the new parts and new leads etc i just have to fit it all up.

I have then been looking at getting another cam reprofiled for bigger lift and longer duration, i am going to go to the Fast Road Cam.
Which goes from Stock Timing 18/58-58/18 .360" Valve lift Duration of 256Degrees to
34/66-66/34 .392" 280

Should make the car run alot smoother and give the cars a little bit more suck.

I am still trying to get my head around what needs to be done to make the change, i dunno what i have to do with clearances with the valves etc. Or if i can just pull the old cam out and lay the new one back down and rebolt her up so any information about this would be much appreciated.
I haven't done alot in this area but am very prepared to learn and just a general idea would be a great help.

I have also in the last couple of days looking at changing the cooling options for summer time which is now here.

And i am going to make some ducting to force the air through the radiator while cruising as the electric fan is not on it restricts the flow of air through the Radiator.

This morning i had a crack in my new exhaust patched as it some how cracked the welds.
And i dropped off my Speedometer to have the flicker taken out of it.

I also found that the black paint on the chrome around the gauges came of easy so i did this.

Well some of you will probably say its about bloody time!!!

Time for some paint, bums now filled with bog, as someone with the bumper on has either been hit or backed into something pretty hard and bent the body where the bumper bolts on.
Its now pretty flat and will only have one ripple in it.

The driver side front gaurd is going to be a prick, needs to be bent in welded then bogged.
Hopefully will be ready for a etch up this weekend and a long board block down.

Im not doing inside the doors bonet boot etc.






While the car is off the road i am sorting the Jon Jackson Brake kit as these cars were never fitted with any brakes.
Try and sort the interior out a bit more. Should be good.

Well i finished off the body prep yesterday at about 5pm with help from Johnathan and Harriet.
Drove it around to the next Shed and masked it up around the windows and shiny bits

I shot it with primer with a gun, i used 1 Litre of paint and lots of thinners.
I did one door and thought it was coming out a bit ruff but it was just because the compressor was not on, i used the 200L tank cleaning the car down. I also de greased and waxed before primer. To etch it up for the final coat i have used 3m Pads that are sorta like a slighty stiffer dish cloth. They work very well and give you lots of control around small areas.

So today i will be putting the lights back on, driving to my work masking her up ready for paint in the morning.

It looks pretty straight and i am happy with how it looks, Prepare your computer for overload tomorrow.

Cheers Stew

gee, that was quick stew

how is the weather in NZ atm ? it is a wee bit warm over here, so spraying would be out of the question.

Looking forward to seeing it with colour, you've done some great work.

stu

It's pretty warm stu.

Cars getting painted in the booth so no worries there.

Well as you all know the car went from this

To this in a very short time


Im very happy with the finish


I am still in the middle of doing this Brake upgrade i am just waiting for some guys from my local forum that are laser cutters machinist to turn out the goods. I should have 3 pairs of the finished brackets for around $150NZ

Doing one set for my car, one set for my dads, and then one for back up Maybe to pay for the whole job after i ask Jon for his Approval.

This morning i went for a WOF, they loved the Paint.
One rear indicator stopped working, just a bad connection.
Front Bearings have to much play hopefully i can just tighten them up for now.
And one of the bolts on the universal steering joint just touches the body through full lock.

So ill try get away with tightening the bearings up or just fit the new ones i have.

Hopefully try get the bearings sorted out today, and get a WOF for the weekend as tomorrow is a day off.

Cheers for all of your help to Stewart

I hope you all have enjoyed my build!

After the brake upgrade i will do the interior, some sort of race seats, a better Fuel, Start panel, Small stereo.

When tighetening the front wheel bearings push the pads away from the discs to prevent the taper going skew wiff...
I usually look for a slight tightening sensation....very slight...and then back off one position on the castelated nut...note you should have 2 ways to put the split pin in...sometimes one is hidden by grease.

Jonners

Well i got sick of my car looking so funney and high on my ultra small wheels, 175/60/13s so i got the standard springs reset 2inches as one just wasn't enough. The back is on 1inches but i think it needs to come down a tad also.

I got a knocking noise coming from the rear last week sounds like somethings hitting the floor i haven't had a good look yet, happens when you change into 2nd and brake a little bit hard.
did 200 odd miles over the weekend.

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Gota get that lip sitting right

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZww38b8YL8