The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Isn't the answer shiny new bumpers?

NickMorgan wrote:Isn't the answer shiny new bumpers?

You got it. Looks completly different with intact chrome

See, I was paying attention!!

Oh, you're going to have sooo much fun changing the back one

Bumpers are now changed oh and SM yes the back bumper was "fun" The only way I could get at the mounting bolts was to drain and remove the petrol tank my mind is thinking who thought that was a good idea.

Front bumper is sans overiders and I think better for it. These are pitted but a lot better than the originals which I intend to get rechromed.

Pics

Before



After





It will all be one colour again soon. This car is starting to come together and look nice at last

More progress today. I must be getting good as Bruce hardly fought me at all. The other rotoflex has now been replaced. It wasn't broken but was definatly starting to split. Whilst under the car I noticed that the chassis rail under the battery was holed and very crusty and far too close to the forward subframe mounting for comfort. In fact it bolts into rust so thats the next job and one from the looks of it that will require the engine and gearbox to come out. There I was obviously looking for an excuse to take it apart again and polish it.

Paul

Ok we are now not running again. I would have been wise to have given up on this a way back now but considering the hours ive put into it im going to get it going again.

The fuel tank drain plug leaks even though its been resealed so I think that the tank may be cracked around it so I think a new tank is in order. The fuel lines between tank and pump are now leaking like a seive so will need to be replaced. The pump still pumps effectively from a bottle and the car will run but I think there are too many leaks in the fuel line for it pull from the tank.

Paul

I'd be very surprised if the tank had cracked there unless you did the plug up with a breaker-bar - it's not subjected to any strain or significant vibration in use! Far more likely that there's damage to the sealing washer (copper iirc). If you used sealant on it (silicone / hylomar etc) then fuel will wash them away in no time. They need clean mating surfaces and a soft copper washer. If the old washer is undamaged then heating it to glowing and allowing it to cool will soften it again.

For pipes, do what Adam did and run rubber fuel hose all the way or just get a roll of copper pipe and some rubber + good clips to join to the existing end bits. Cheap, safe and effective provided concourse stylee originality isn't a concern. Simples.

Right now got the tank out and cleaned up. The problem the bottom of the tank has rusted through and its not leaking through the drain plug at all. After cleaning there are pinholes visible in the depression around the drain plug. It will either need repairing if possible or replacement

If there are a few pinholes in a generally sound tank, you might be able to slosh seal it, but chances are that it's wasted all over the surface where the holes were found, so better cut out the bottom and weld in a patch (if you're doing this to a large area, it's perfectly safe since you have access inside and there's no issue with vapour) or fit a fresh tank.

The rust area seems very localised and the rest of the tank is sound. Ive wire brushed it and screwdrivered and cant make the pitting any larger. The patch where only one pin hole is visible is about a cm sq. Wire brushing the rest of the tank revealed perfectly sound metal

In that case, that two-part epoxy that you knead together between the fingers and stick on the tank as required is pretty good. I once applied some to the dirty underside of a kitten tank once, when it started to leak during a long-distance event. I had nothing to lose as the marshals weren't about to let me drive with a drip of fuel, albeit a small one, so bought some of that, and applied it.
Even without following the maker's advice to ensure that the area to be sealed be clean, it worked, the tank was completely dry thereafter and was still dry when that car was sold on after a further few years of hard use.

You've got the advantage in that your tank is out and clean.

I think I can see whats caused the rot in the tank and I think it would be a common problem with all of them and probably worth a check. There are two felt strips that protect the tank from the boot floor. On mine these where water logged rotten and rancid. At some point the boot has obviously leaked. Having been in direct contact with the tank there are two parrelel lines of rust pitting where these sit. In only one place has it actually gone through.

I dont think these can safely be done away with so im thinking of replacing them with strips of rubber that hopefully wont soak up water in future.

Paul

I had exactly that problem on mine. Had a few pinholes in the bottom. very small, But when I used to get in the car after not using it for a while, It used to smell strongly of petrol. So I had the tank out, to investigate the cause. Turned out that the breather hose had split, But while the tank was out, I wire brushed it down to make sure. And sure enough, there were a few pinholes.

I used a fibreglass repair kit, and used small pieces of matting over the holey areas. And to make sure it wouldn't happen anywhere else, I covered the rest of the bottom in fibreglass resin too. Then a coat of Hammerite, and all was sorted (got a nice increase on fuel economy too )

It LIVES

Fuel leak sorted

Pump rebuilt again and west wales just heard the sound of a trummy pushrod engine buzzing through the countryside. Major got my mojo back