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I'll have to repair the threads, broke two of those manifold to downpipe screws yesterday(never would of got them without the manifold out)...
Meanwhile there is clear access i'd like to sort out the steering column which has movement, i'll create a new post not to mix up things
Hi everyone,
I'm going to have to repair the threads on my manifold, but I'm not quite sure what would be best (and cheapest)
First I thought of using a metric tap and drill kit M12 or M11 (hard to find at a decent price), would that work?
Or would it be best to use 3/8 helicoils (but again a decent kit seems to be quite expensive, almost half the price of a new manifold...).
Anyway I'm a bit uncertain about what option to choose, what would you do with the same problem?
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Thanks madmart, i'll try with one of these, given that the orignal thread is 3/8 approximately 9,54 mm, what metric kit do I need to use? Would an M10 kit be enough (10mm is the size of the helicoil or size of the drill?)?
I would carry on drilling the old bolts out. Then you can run a tap down to finish cleaning up.
Use a UNF stud - the original thread is unf on these manifolds, but only the top 2 positions. I still use a bolt at the bottom so the downpipe will pull clear.
You can use 3 studs but the pipe may not pull off even jacking up the engine.
You could use metric studs if they are easier, but you cant then use the original thread which will clean up if you drill carefully.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
Does anyone know of a good website I could get exhaust studs, washer, nuts etc? I found them on ebay but not alltogether i don't really want to pay several shipping charges...
Hi everyone,
I ordered 5 new bolts for the manifold/engine fit from Rimmers, but was quite surprised when i compared them to the original as they are about 5mm longer. Is this normal? will it still fit properly or will i need extra thick washers to compensate?