The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Dolly-Dimple wrote:Great looking Dolly and great work with it, its looking brilliant

Thanks very much for the kind words much appreciated

Toledo Man wrote:It was good to meet you at the TDCIR. A shame your electronic ignition died on you. I had the same one on mine and it has been perfect from day one. It was lucky I had a set of points and condenser in my glovebox to get you going again. I hope you made it back to Bolton. For what it costs, it would be worth getting another one. THIS is the one I bought for mine.

Hi Toledo Man
Thanks so much for all your help on Sunday. It really was appreciated.
Yes never missed a beat got back safe and sound. Thanks for the link i will order one and also order you a new set of points and rotar arm to replace the one you kindly donated. Do you know the two other guys names who helped me out i would like to thank them both but didnt catch their names. The guy with the coil and the guy with the red Dolly who helped with the spanners.
Apart from the breakdown had a really good day It was great to see all those beautiful cars together

Most common faults at electronic ignitions is a wrong type coil. Points are forgiven switching high currents when having a wrong coil but most of the electronic modules cannot switch the high current and burn. Make sure the resistance of the coil is not too low otherwise your replacement module will also be black inside very soon.

Jeroen

Most electronic ignitions need an uprated coil. This one looked like the Britpart kit which can be used with a standard coil. In this case the coil was fine (a spare known working coil was tried). There was no spark from the coil. Once the points & condenser were fitted there was a spark at the coil and the car fired up straight away. It was lucky that I had them in my glovebox for a problem such as this.

Toledo Man wrote:Most electronic ignitions need an uprated coil. This one looked like the Britpart kit which can be used with a standard coil. In this case the coil was fine (a spare known working coil was tried). There was no spark from the coil. Once the points & condenser were fitted there was a spark at the coil and the car fired up straight away. It was lucky that I had them in my glovebox for a problem such as this.

What is an uprated coil?

Jeroen

I do wish people would stop posting ignorant comments about electrical stuff.
If you dont actually understand the science then why feel you have the right to comment?

Its just ohm's law. So please do some basic reading on the subject....

Just because some money grabbing oiks selling cheap chinese tat on ebay sell a crap coil to go with
their sub standard electronics it doesnt mean you have to perpetuate any sort of myths about electronic
ignitions "needing" an "uprated" coil.

As Jeroen says - just what is an "uprated" coil? Its just a marketing word!

What you need is "matching" components. Mismatching causes the trouble.

You need to identify first if the system is ballasted or not and then power the electronic module from
the right voltage. You also need to fit a ballasted or unballasted coil accordingly.

Coil quality does vary. Just because some decent bosch or denso coils will operate for years when mis fitted
doesnt mean you can always get away with a ballasted coil in a non ballasted application...

It doesnt seem to matter how often we bitch about this or how many links we post to wiki articles.....
I'll still be ranting about this in a years time I suspect.


Jonners

I agree that a decent quality coil is an absolute must and you do need to know if is ballasted or not. The original reason for a ballast was to have 12v for cranking to get the engine started more easily and 6v for when the engine is running. The reason for bypassing the ballast is to get a stronger spark when running. If the coil isn't changed for a 12v one it will eventually die.

I have put solid state ignitions in other Triumphs but they had 12v coils.

Ignoring the 12v - 6v argument for the moment, it seems to me that all that needs to be done is to connect the unit to the 12v at the fuse rather than at the coil. Is there any reason that this would cause problems?

Accuspark do one for the TR7 which I assume would work in an 1850.

Correct Alan.
I have the Accuspark on my 1850, powered from the ignition fed fuse.
I also went with the 12 volt coil and powered it the same way, disconnecting the ballast wire.
Works a treat.
I just tucked the original wires out of sight.

Toledo Man wrote:I agree that a decent quality coil is an absolute must and you do need to know if is ballasted or not. The original reason for a ballast was to have 12v for cranking to get the engine started more easily and 6v for when the engine is running. The reason for bypassing the ballast is to get a stronger spark when running. If the coil isn't changed for a 12v one it will eventually die.

A ballasted coil setup has the same spark as as a non ballasted setup. Makes no difference while running. A Ballasted coil is also a 12v coil and not a 6v coil.

Jonners, your turn....

Jeroen

Yep all coils are 12V when the points are open...



Jonners

anyway,,,that a nice dolly 1300