The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Thanks for the info Alun. I am checking out David Manners site now

Tim

Well, the saga continues.

Really struggled to get a 'correct' m/c but have picked up a Girling 'copy' with a 7/16 inlet but 3/8 outlet (it is the correct 0.625 bore). In my naivety I thought it would be simple enough to just get my mate too change the fitting on the m/c end of the hose but apparently he cannot because it is steel pipe and also the 3/8 fitting I have is for a smaller bore metal pipe. However, I have now decided that the existing m/c to s/c hose is in too poor condition to merit refitting anyway so can anyone advise on the best way forward?

Basically, I want 1 x 3/8 unf end and 1 x 7/16 end with Goodridge type hose between, the regular ones presumably are 7/16 at both ends.

I also could do with a new reservoir hose and connector because the nose of the old connector appears to have splayed sufficiently to make it impossible to refit, though it obviously did come off the old m/c-it is the correct size as I have a new 7/16 fitting to compare and the nose is the only difference. I presume all I will need to do is get a short length of copper pipe with a new 7/16 end and connect the other end to the rubber hose with the existing jubilee type clip.

Thanks again,
Tim

If it has a 3/8 unf outlet then you can drill and tap it to take the 7/16 next size up or you can buy an adaptor.
Moss have them. I am sure there are drill and tap charts about online.

Goodridge style hoses are quite readily available and a good idea. The old style hose is no great shakes. Ive got several where the union rusted
to the pipe and sheared at one or both ends. In some cases they can be reflared...but only with the correct union.

As you found you cant go down a size of union and keep the same pipe....

Jonners

I'm sure Ian (sprint95M) posted a link to a specialist in kit cars, they everything for all sizes.

Ictoan wrote:Basically, I want 1 x 3/8 unf end and 1 x 7/16 end with Goodridge type hose between, the regular ones presumably are 7/16 at both ends.

As Bill thought,
the link I posted earlier is for a company who stock the necessary adapters....
usually it is a male to male that is required (to fit the Goodridge hose)
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/i ... 8-unf-male
Please note that you will need a copper washer on the master cylinder side.

There are numerous kit car specialists who sell this sort of stuff, as well as the motor factors.





Ian.

Another way of searching id for "jic " fittings. Basically you need a jic 3 to jic 4 adapter.

Tony

Thanks guys for the advice. I had looked up the Car Builder site and saw the connector (#BUC71638M Male to Male) but your added advice is useful. I have also e-mailed Goodridge to ask if they are able to supply a hose with the required sizes and a 90deg turn to ensure it all clears the bulkhead sound deadening. If they cannot come up with something to bolt straight on I can get the standard hose and adaptor with brass washer. Unfortunately everyone seems to use a generic photo of the hose so I am never very sure exactly what it is that is being offered.

Can I ask why the washer is necessary as the adaptor appears to be shaped to fit the m/c outlet? Is it just an added security?

Thanks again,
Tim

Ictoan wrote:Can I ask why the washer is necessary as the adaptor appears to be shaped to fit the m/c outlet? Is it just an added security?

Despite its shape the adapter doesn't form a seal on its own, the brake fluid will escape along the threads, hence the need for a copper washer.



Ian.

Thanks for explaining that Ian.

Am I right in thinking the Goodridge hoses are female at both ends? So I will need a male/male connector for the slave cyl end of the hose as well (but 7/16 to 7/16)

Apologies for what may appear to be obvious questions but I just want to be sure I am understanding everything correctly.

Tim

Ictoan wrote:Am I right in thinking the Goodridge hoses are female at both ends? So I will need a male/male connector for the slave cyl end of the hose as well (but 7/16 to 7/16)

The Goodridge clutch hoses do indeed have female ends but come with (7/16 male - 7/16 male) adapters and copper washers.
(Please ensure you actually have 7/16" copper washers as 12mm ones won't do.)




Ian.

sprint95m wrote:

Ictoan wrote:Am I right in thinking the Goodridge hoses are female at both ends? So I will need a male/male connector for the slave cyl end of the hose as well (but 7/16 to 7/16)

The Goodridge clutch hoses do indeed have female ends but come with (7/16 male - 7/16 male) adapters and copper washers.
(Please ensure you actually have 7/16" copper washers as 12mm ones won't do.)

Ian.

Hi Ian, apologies but nothing ever seems straight forward for me!

Received a reply from Goodridge when asking exactly what was in the box and explaining I have a m/c with 3/8 outlet:
"You get everything to replace an original clutch hose.
So you get a 7/16 banjo bolt and washers for the banjo and at the other end you get a 7/16 bulkhead adaptor to screw into the female on the hose but this has a bulkhead length 7/16 thread, we do a 7/16 male to 3/8 male but this is a normal length 3/8 male not the bulkhead"

This sounds like what I need but will the normal length 3/8 male be ok into the m/c? Do I need a copper washer for both the 3/8 fitting and the 7/16?

Sorry for bending everyone's ears

Cheers,
Tim

Tim, yes it does sound like you need copper washers at both ends.

(Fit the banjo end to the slave cylinder first since it doesn't swivel.)




Ian.

Thanks Ian.

Tim

Apologies for the delay in updating (due to waiting for parts ad a holiday) but it still ain't fixed!

For reference, for anyone considering replacing their standard clutch m/c but put off by the price of an original, I bought a generic Girling style 0.065" m/c, £28.20 off e-bay (JJC Race & Rally but probably available cheaper elsewhere if you hunt about) which comes with a 7/16 unf inlet but a 3/8 unf outlet (not the 7/16 outlet on the original). I also ordered a Goodridge Hose (STH1000-1P) which came with 7/16 ends. Goodridge also supplied the 7/16 to 3/8 adaptor (919-04-03P) and a 3/8 copper washer as advised earlier in this thread.

I have fitted all this together and bled the brakes (quite a job in itself) and I am now getting full movement of the arm, but the clutch is still not disengaging so I have booked it into the garage so the 'box can be removed and the exact cause of the problem pinpointed. I cannot tell if it is the release mechanism or if there is a problem with the clutch itself but we will find out in due course.

So far I have replaced the m/c, s/c and the hose in between, but still not fixed the problem.

Tim

Driven plates commonly bind to flywheels on cars that stand about for ages.
If you have full movement of the release arm and it feels like a clutch should at the pedal then you just have this.

Warm the car up thoroughly, then try this in succession...

Put the car in top gear and start it clutch down. It will probably bog the starter and not work. Try it a few times going back into neutral so the gears dont load up. It may eventually come free. You can alternate with reverse gear as well.

If this doesnt work after a few attempts...50% likely...you need to get the car on a stretch of road where you can safely
drive around in a quiet area. Get some help to push the car up to walking pace and force it in to 1st gear at tickover speed.
Then drive it slowly accelerating and decelerating but with the clutch held down. Eventually the shocks of driving and accelerating
and slowing down will free the plates off and the car will start to drive normally.

I have had this happen several times to numerous cars, not just dolomites and it always works...

Well worth trying before you fork out to have the box out.

Jonners