The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

If with and without o/d it's the same symptoms then it's 200% not the cone clutch.

Jeroen

Susie's was.

Try clutchless gear changes, see if it slips then...

Without ease off.

Jeroen

Change the copper clutch pipe for the proper larger-bore pipe and all will be well. The small bore copper pipe is restricting / slowing the return of the fluid to the master cylinder when the clutch is released.

I have a NOS red plastic clutch pipe for 1500 Dolomite if you need one, £20 + postage.

Steve

Ok i have gone over the car this last few days and have narrowed it down to one thing that could be the problem.

Can anyone tell me does the clutch pedal go to the floor or does it stop solid about an inch from the floor ?

Shaftmister wrote:Ok i have gone over the car this last few days and have narrowed it down to one thing that could be the problem.

Can anyone tell me does the clutch pedal go to the floor or does it stop solid about an inch from the floor ?

This interested me since i've never really checked, but my car (the Carledo) has neither carpets nor sound deadening on the bulkhead to confuse the issue, i've just checked and the pedal goes down until the back of it hits the bulkhead. My clutch operation is perfect (at least it is now i've changed its leaking concentric Omega slave cylinder)

If yours hits a full stop before this happens, my suggestion is that you have too long a master cylinder pushrod fitted. This is not as unlikely as it sounds as this cylinder fits a multitude of applications, and if, at some time, one has been fitted with a pushrod for (say) a Landrover or a MkII Cortina, it could give you the symptoms you are experiencing.

Unfortunately I don't have one to hand to tell you how long the pushrod SHOULD be, perhaps someone else on here might be able to help!

Steve

That's what I thought first also. Too long will not release the rear return hole.

But does the clutch pedal has a stop? I thought that if the rod is too long the pedal just sits high in the car?

Jeroen

soe8m wrote:That's what I thought first also. Too long will not release the rear return hole.

But does the clutch pedal has a stop? I thought that if the rod is too long the pedal just sits high in the car?

Jeroen

I think, under normal conditions, the pedal, when freed from the pushrod will lift SLIGHTLY before reaching some sort of obstruction (not necessarily a "stop" in the accepted sense) but its only a couple of degrees on my car at least. The acid test is, are the brake and clutch pedals level when "at rest"? If the clutch pedal is even a little higher than the brake pedal, you have a problem! And on second thoughts, is there any free play in the pedal? (a few mm is enough) if not this may also be indicative that something is amiss.

Steve

Ok I just checked there and the clutch pedal sits less than a 1/4 inch higher than the brake pedal .
There is around 1 inch free play in the pedal before any resistance.
The clutch pedal fully pressed in is solid around 2 inches from the floor.

Can you check again that NO part of the pedal is hitting anything to stop it, mine actually hits the bulkhead about half way up the pedal (where your car probably has carpet) and the base of the pedal itself is still clear of the floor. If it is in fact stopping in mid air and you have free play at the top of the travel, this would point to a hydraulic mismatch between the master and slave cylinders, again not uncommon, but I wouldn't have thought that would induce clutch slip, the normal symptom is a lack of full disengagement, necessitating, as on your car, an extra groove being made on the slave to persuade it further into the sleeve.

Steve

Just checked again , I have the carpet removed and the pedal is hitting solid and there is 2" left between the pedal and the floor .

The your slave is fitted wrong or is the wrong one...

It should go almost to the floor when fully disengaged and have about 1/2 inch of slop at the top. I bet yours is still tight at the top?

May not be the o-d after all....

Jonners

The push rods are quite short, approx 7 cm from centre of clevis pin to end of the rod where it contacts the piston.

Ok we think we have it boiled down to a wrong slave cylinder !
Can any one clarify is there a difference in cylinders from 1979 on ?
My car is 79 but there might not be a 79 gearbox fitted , my be of an older car ?