The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Jon Tilson wrote: ↑Sun Sep 10, 2017 7:21 pm That's because your bleed screw is below the inlet on the slave. If you reverse them it will bleed more easily.

When I do 1850's I just run a rubber pipe from the bleed screw venting into the master reservoir. Few pumps soon has all the air out.

You'll know next time.... though I have often mentioned this trick before. Its sooooo cool when you do it first time...


Jonners

You beat me to that trick Jonners
It would have drip bled on that set up as well, just keep m/cyl topped up and no pumps needed
Marinas used to have the same problem
Cheers, Tony.

Lovely shiney hose and slave cylinder too....

Sadly cant say the same for the brake pipe coming out of the 4 way splitter or does it look worse in the photo than in real life?

Sure it will get any necessary attention in due course....

Excellent pics as always too. The trouble is the standard is so high I find it intimidating.... so I'll just comment from the gallery and
not submit any of my own....(not that much is going on atm).

Jonners

Jon Tilson wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2017 10:20 am Lovely shiney hose and slave cylinder too....

Sadly cant say the same for the brake pipe coming out of the 4 way splitter or does it look worse in the photo than in real life?

Sure it will get any necessary attention in due course....

Yes, all of the brake and fuel pipes will be removed and replaced. I thought I'd do this when the engine's out to save myself a bit of hassle.

Jon Tilson wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2017 10:20 am Excellent pics as always too. The trouble is the standard is so high I find it intimidating.... so I'll just comment from the gallery and
not submit any of my own....(not that much is going on atm).

Jonners

Thanks, but the trouble is that I think everyone expects so much of me now!

Jon Tilson wrote: ↑Sun Sep 10, 2017 7:21 pm When I do 1850's I just run a rubber pipe from the bleed screw venting into the master reservoir. Few pumps soon has all the air out.

You'll know next time.... though I have often mentioned this trick before. Its sooooo cool when you do it first time...

Jonners

I love that tip. I have to sort the hydraulics on my 1300 clutch, so will try this!

Watch this space, we have some plans for DTR.....

It's official DTR will be at the clubs stand 4-462 at this years Practical Classics Classic Car & Restoration Show, with Discovery. 23 – 25 March 2018 at the NEC Birmingham

We intend to recommission her over the course of the show. It will need a small amount of welding done and this will be done before the show but my plan is to transport the car in on a trailer during build up and during the course of the show:

Replace the complete braking system including all rubber hoses, pipes, calipers, discs, fill with silicone brake fluid and bleed the brakes.
Replace the fuel system, including pipes and hoses.
Whilst at the show the radiator will be reconditioned for us by a local company ready to refit.
Refit the engine and gearbox
Fit a new stainless steel exhaust system
Refurbish the cooling system fitting all new hoses and the new rad, fill the cooling system when done.
Refurbish the steering replacing bushes, balljoints and parts where necessary, maybe the rack if needed.
Fit Lumenition Optronic electronic ignition and Cibie halogen headlamps wiring in relays.
Fit new tyres, this will be done on the Saturday at a local tyre fitters.

Then hopefully on Sunday evening we will be in a position to put some fuel in the tank, start the car and drive her out of the show during breakdown.

It is ambitious to say the least but with the volunteers that I have to help me it should be ready for an MOT on the Monday morning!

In preparation for the NEC I need to replace the head gasket as when I moved DTR there was a lot of white smoke coming from the exhaust.

Head gasket change on a triumph slant engine, that's enough to strike fear into the most experienced slant engined enthusiast!

Into the engine stand and off with its head!







Two studs came out but number 1 stud was stuck fast, this is where I suspected the head gasket was gone. One stud sheared off, and the other wouldn't budge. I used my secret method of head removal and pulled off the head. As I suspected number 1 stud was quite corroded and thats where the gasket had gone...









Bores look good, I am going to whip the pistons out and check eveything, I have a set of bearings to pop in if necessary.



Then there's the camshaft... the sprocket was held on by one bolt... the other was found in the sump with the part of the camshaft that had sheered off. Haven't a clue how this happened, new camshaft then.

Safe to say once done the engine will be in far better condition. I'll be interested to see the state of the bottom end now.

James467 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 02, 2018 1:08 pm In preparation for the NEC I need to replace the head gasket as when I moved DTR there was a lot of white smoke coming from the exhaust.

Head gasket change on a triumph slant engine, that's enough to strike fear into the most experienced slant engined enthusiast!

Two studs came out but number 1 stud was stuck fast, this is where I suspected the head gasket was gone. One stud sheared off, and the other wouldn't budge. I used my secret method of head removal and pulled off the head. As I suspected number 1 stud was quite corroded and thats where the gasket had gone...

Then there's the camshaft... the sprocket was held on by one bolt... the other was found in the sump with the part of the camshaft that had sheered off. Haven't a clue how this happened, new camshaft then.

What's the secret of 1850 head removal then please James ? That looked just so easy from the piccys.

And interestingly I had exactly the same breakage of the camshaft drive flange on my late Sprint. Except the whole lot ended up in the sump and took out the timing chain cover as well. And I thought this was a Sprint " thing " with the added stresses of the 16V set-up.

If you need a good used 1850 camshaft I have one here from some years ago. I imagine you will be going for brand new maybe ? I think they are still around.

Cheers for now,
Tony.

I would have the cilinders honed together with some new rings. Too shiny and stops the blue smoke also.

Jeroen

soe8m wrote: ↑Fri Feb 02, 2018 4:33 pm I would have the cilinders honed together with some new rings. Too shiny and stops the blue smoke also.

Jeroen

Was going to do exactly that Jeroen, rings are only £16.50 from Rimmers and they are the BL ones. It has done 90k so is probably due an overhaul.

If I have the piston, scrank etc... out I may as well get the bottom end balanced whilst the cylinders are being honed. Then I can weight match the pistons and rods as per NWL, I wont go as far as you with the weight reduction though!

Engine should go back together nicely and run well with new Vandervell bearings etc...

new to this wrote: ↑Fri Feb 02, 2018 7:40 pm James

if your going to have a new camshaft,will you have to get the head line borded ?

Dave

I shouldn't have to have the head line bored as the caps are matched to it so a new cam plus followers will just slot in. The only thing I'll need to do it's the usual 20 minutes new engine start up procedure, don't run under 2k rpm for 20 min business.

James467 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 02, 2018 7:49 pm

new to this wrote: ↑Fri Feb 02, 2018 7:40 pm James

if your going to have a new camshaft,will you have to get the head line borded ?

Dave

I shouldn't have to have the head line bored as the caps are matched to it so a new cam plus followers will just slot in. The only thing I'll need to do it's the usual 20 minutes new engine start up procedure, don't run under 2k rpm for 20 min business.

James

the caps are machined to the cam,your now fitting a new cam,you may be alright but check the cam moves okay before you fit the head

Dave

Cambores of 1850 heads are that large you can almost fit two camshafts in. Never an issue. Bores are just bored. Not matched or machined for a particular camshaft.

Jeroen