The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

new to this wrote: ↑Fri Mar 09, 2018 11:11 am

TrustNo1 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 09, 2018 2:17 am

new to this wrote: ↑Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:33 pm

The metal had some at the work shop ,the poly rubber came from Ebay,there alright for small one off;s but they charge £4 postage on every item

Dave

cheers. found some locally

Where did you get yours,and what size bottles do they sell and how much

thanks Dave

Two 500G bottles of PolyTek 70 £16. from a local boat builders. Doesn't sell to retail though.

TrustNo1 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 09, 2018 2:43 pm

new to this wrote: ↑Fri Mar 09, 2018 11:11 am

TrustNo1 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 09, 2018 2:17 am


cheers. found some locally

Where did you get yours,and what size bottles do they sell and how much

thanks Dave

Two 500G bottles of PolyTek 70 £16. from a local boat builders. Doesn't sell to retail though.

I bought two small 268g bottles,and the colour dye, but i didnt have enough to make two,shame they dont sell retail,dont know if you have mixed any before but learn from my mistakes,dont mix it on a cold day the drying time is effected,mix the dye and the two bottles very slowly as not to get air bubbles,i got loads ,your also need a releasing agent so your bush/mount doesnt stick to the mould/bird box i tiried canndle wax for the releasing agent,but that wasnt very good,had to brake the bird box to get the engine mount out

Dave

Friend of mine used an orbital sander to get the bubbles out, can't quite remember exactly how as it's a while ago but I'm pretty sure he fixed it to the mould and used the vibration.

Bought stuff from this place before, to make a 'moulded to the person' race seat.

http://www.mbfg.co.uk/

that's the same brand as I've ordered, they also have an Ebay shop.

cheers for the tips I've not done Poly mounds before.

They're the people I've bought mine from. The guy, who I think is in Ireland, advises using French polish as a primer to adhere to the steel plates. I've got some knotting for sealing knots in wood before painting which I've been told is just thinned French polish. I've not used mine yet but was thinking of using it in my spare front suspension arms and seeing how it goes and how long it lasts. I was thinking of wrapping my engine mount (1500) mould in cellophane as a release as it will give it a shiny smooth finish too.

I've dealt with ABL Stevens in Sandbatch a lot over the years for resins and general fibreglass requirements both for roofing and making body panel moulds, I've always found them very helpful and knowledgeable about their products, they also have a few 'how too's' on their website, might be worth a look for you all.....

http://www.resin-supplies.co.uk/

Ok then guys, I've found an original Metalastic 1500 engine mount. Is this one that the club wants to copy or not? If it is, where do I send it?

I was after a Sprint one but keep that one handy as it might be useful later on.

Some details on Non Sprint Engine Mounts
I believe that the 1300, 1500 and the 1850 engines all use the same design of engine of mount which has a part number 158016 but that the hardness of the rubber varies. I have read in the past that the 1500 engine mount is the hardest and this can be identified by the fact that if one of the mounting plates is held in a vice and you attempt to turn the other mounting plate this very difficult to do. When the mounts were initially manufactured they had different colour paint blobs put on then to indicate their hardness. I was surprised to have read that the 1500 mount was the hardest as I was expecting it to be the 1850 engine.
I recently replaced the near side engine mount on one of my 1500 Dolomites because it had started to delaminate and when I did this I struggled to lift the engine sufficiently high to get the new mount in as I could not get at the bolts that hold the far side mount on without disconnecting the coolant hoses. Then having got the new mount in I failed to check that it was the correct way up and as a result the engine was too close to the steering rack and they knocked when the engine was started up. If you look carefully at an original metalstic mount it’s the rubber is shaped and there is a correct way up to fit the mount.

I confirmed this when I took the two mounting bolts out and slacken off the nut that fixes the mount to the engine and turned the mount around and then refitted the bolts and tighten the nuts up again. There is still not as much clearance as I would like to see but the engine does not hit the steering rack on start up any more.
As I stated I was changing the mount because it had started to delaminate this is the normal problem that I have seen. The rubber itself seems to be good so I have been attempting to find a glue or resin that we could use to rebond the rubber to metal plate. I have failed but I am wondering if anyone else has any ideals.

It is also interesting to note that the shape of the original mount rubber is a complex shape that we do not see in the current mounts that are being manufactured. There must have been some reason for making it such a complex shape.

Richard the old one wrote: ↑Sun Apr 01, 2018 10:19 am Some details on Non Sprint Engine Mounts
I believe that the 1300, 1500 and the 1850 engines all use the same design of engine of mount which has a part number 158016 but that the hardness of the rubber varies. I have read in the past that the 1500 engine mount is the hardest and this can be identified by the fact that if one of the mounting plates is held in a vice and you attempt to turn the other mounting plate this very difficult to do. When the mounts were initially manufactured they had different colour paint blobs put on then to indicate their hardness. I was surprised to have read that the 1500 mount was the hardest as I was expecting it to be the 1850 engine.

The part number for the harder 1300/1500 mount is 149934. They are easy to tell apart if you have both but if you only have one or the other the twist test is a bit subjective. That was the reason for the pointer test at the end of this thread, deliberately Heath Robinson so as to be easily reproduced.

sprint95m wrote: ↑Wed Feb 21, 2018 11:04 am I am about to make (next month) an offside engine mount but thought I should ask first.
For the nearside I am going to try an off the shelf Jaguar XJ6 mount.

Haven't forgotten about this.

As previously mentioned, I have an XJ6 mount to try on the nearside and
for the offside I finally have some TR shock absorber mounts, they have appeared after being delayed somewhat in the post(?).

Last night I went to order some mild steel tube via ebay and, lo and behold, the seller is on holiday until May 11th!
None of the others I found listed are of a suitable size, so this will just have to wait I guess.



Ian.

Mark,

I have a pair of OE used engine mounts left amongst Jon Tilson's things if you still need a pair?

Hi Guys,

I am happy to assist in this project but I would need some guidance as engineering is not my trade. Are we any further along with this?

Nick.

A thread revival?
I am wondering what the state of play is here?


Recently I have been thinking about the Sprint engine mounts.
This is because the rubber on the offside mount of my Sprint has completely come separate,
which I guess is an inevitability given the peculiar horizontal orientation of said mount
and also because Chris Witor has commissioned these https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail. ... 73-0016KSS.
If ever there was a car with vibration problems, it is the Triumph 2000. Chris has successfully made Superflex versions of the
manual gearbox mounting and the back subframe mounts.
Given his track record, I am of the opinion that Chris really is the person to speak to.




Ian

PS: (Personally I don't need replacement Sprint mounts because I am using Jaguar XJ6 (for XK engines) mounts
with the offside located into a bespoke bracket (bolted on to the existing subframe bracket) where
said mount is vertically orientated.)

I found a company in Birmingham that correctly bonds rubber to metal when I was researching QL rubbers and gear gaiters and had a factory visit.

They could competently replicate the originals, but it's the same old chestnut of tooling costs versus quantity...I now have a pair of NOS Sprint mounts they could copy...