Newguys Sprint Conversion

[newguy]

Alrity i got my Clutch Plate today.
Not what i was after but i guess it will do as it is all i can get.

Sposed to be a better build than the AP Line it is made by Clutch Industries.
Hope its better XFingers And will put up with a slight bit of abuse.

[newguy]

Pics of Plate

[straylight]

stew, that master and slave cylinder were a bargain....you did very well there.

making solid progress getting all the bitz in, well done. have you been watching ebay in Oz....whole dolomites and parts all over the place this week, stupidly cheap prices too.

keep the pics coming.

stu

[newguy]

Cheers Stu






Ahh well i spent the whole weekend working on the car and got crap all dun.

Sorry i didn't have my camera i left it at work.

Any how things i got done.Removed sprint subframe and 1850 subframe.
Put the Sprint frame into the 1850 to be sprint and the 1850s subframe into the sprint not to be, stole its front sway bar.
Couldn't get the front bolts out that hold the subframe on either of the cars, locked in there tight with sum bush or something. Didn't have anything to put any heat on it.
The reason i need to get it out is the front engine stabilizer.
Tips here would be a great help.

Also pulled the Diff out of the sprint, it has some valve on the rear brakes as the 1850 does not,
is this needed? I don't see the one i pulled off doing alot if anything? Just to apply less or more force to the rear brakes???
If i have to put this in the 1850 i gota drill holes etc don't really see the point.

Also, changed the steering wheel over, and other components at the bottom of the steering.
water blasted both sub frames, flicked some paint on the sprint one, removed the rusty 1850 boot, found that there was a bit of bog in the rear of the car must have been hit in the bumper or something, took the surface rust off the passenger and driver floors and put rust converter on it. Also found that where the accelerator cable goes through the fire wall has rust threw, dunno what ill do there at the moment.

I then sat around looking at what i had done i didnt have enough time to switch the sprint and 1850s diffs over so i just disconnected the hand brake and brake cables.


Still feel i did nothing at all.....

[straylight]

ya did more than me mate !

and it sounds like you achieved a hella lot. Two sub frame swaps, diffs, brake work....great going.

all I did sprint wise was to clean the whole of the wiring loom, waiting for the engine to be returned so I can rebuild it.

played with the kids though, so that was good.

[DavePoth]

Couldn't get the front bolts out that hold the subframe on either of the cars, locked in there tight with sum bush or something. Didn't have anything to put any heat on it.
The reason i need to get it out is the front engine stabilizer.
Tips here would be a great help.

Just get some WD-40 or something on there and leave it overnight. Generally the bolts will be stuck in with a bit of rust.

Also pulled the Diff out of the sprint, it has some valve on the rear brakes as the 1850 does not,
is this needed? I don't see the one i pulled off doing alot if anything? Just to apply less or more force to the rear brakes???
If i have to put this in the 1850 i gota drill holes etc don't really see the point.

The axle on the Sprint is a lot beefier than the 1850 one, and that includes the brakes, which are a lot bigger than the 1850 ones. The reason for the valve is that without it the rear brakes will tend to lock up more easily, which could be a bit scary. That said it won't work properly with lowered suspension. Adam (2FAST4U) has just installed a brake bias valve, this might be a better option for you.

Also, changed the steering wheel over, and other components at the bottom of the steering.
water blasted both sub frames, flicked some paint on the sprint one, removed the rusty 1850 boot, found that there was a bit of bog in the rear of the car must have been hit in the bumper or something, took the surface rust off the passenger and driver floors and put rust converter on it. Also found that where the accelerator cable goes through the fire wall has rust threw, dunno what ill do there at the moment.

It's a fairly thin bit of steel there, the section with the accelerator pedal bracket quite often cracks, so it's a good idea to weld a plate in there to strengthen it up in any case.

All in all good progress though, a lot more than I managed (nothing. )

[sprint95m]

Couldn't get the front bolts out that hold the subframe on either of the cars, locked in there tight with sum bush or something. Didn't have anything to put any heat on it.
The reason i need to get it out is the front engine stabilizer.
Tips here would be a great help.

Heat from a (oxyacetylene or propane) torch is required.
It may be possible to use penetrating oil, but I always use heat (as it is simple. reliable and quick).

Also pulled the Diff out of the sprint, it has some valve on the rear brakes as the 1850 does not,
is this needed? I don't see the one i pulled off doing alot if anything? Just to apply less or more force to the rear brakes???
If i have to put this in the 1850 i gota drill holes etc don't really see the point.

As you reasoned, this valve alters the amount of rear braking, ie if the car is loaded it will sit lower, so the valve opens to increase rear braking pressure.
I removed this valve from my Sprint (it was seized) and ran it without problem for 10 years, but it is very important to ensure the front brake are in perfect working order. In a previous thread, several people disagreed with removing the valve (so I all am doing here is relaying my experience). Obviously, you will need to check if permanent removal is an option legally in New Zealand.

Also found that where the accelerator cable goes through the fire wall has rust threw, dunno what ill do there at the moment.

This is a (common?) problem on Dolomites. To rectify it, I cut out the rotten section and weld in a heavy gauge plate (1.6mm or 2mm thickness). You can be quite generous with the overall dimensions.


Good progress, Stew

[newguy]

DavePoth
95M

The bolts are freely turning, its just i can not get them out of the holes, i have given then a bang with a hammer and there is no movement at all.
I think that there was some sort of sleeving system i think?????
I have been using CRC Penetrate, but i will get some WD40 to try out for sure.
I will have to borrow some decent heat torch then haha

I will clean up the diff some time this week hopefully, and inspect the valve for the rear brakes.
What sort of brake bias valve should i be using? My Car is lowered by 1 inch with, lowering springs and Spax Adjusties.


I had some thoughts about the Accelertor cable hole etc last night.
Thought i might cut out the rust and patch weld it and then run the cable through a grommet.
So the cable cover can not move but the cable can, helping reducing the chance of this happening again.

Thanks For both of your reply's
It is most helpful and appreciative.

[newguy]

Stu

I Still feel that i had nothing completed at all, i wanted to get the torque converter off the motor,
fit the gear box, put it in and then steal my dads drive shaft out of his sprint to see if it is a direct match so
i know that i need my prop shaft to made identical to it.
Then finish stripping the motor etc.

Maybe i aim way to high for to much to be done HUH

Thanks Again

A few crappy Cell Pics








Sacked OWWW

[sprint95m]

The bolts are freely turning, its just i can not get them out of the holes, i have given then a bang with a hammer and there is no movement at all.
I think that there was some sort of sleeving system i think?????

Inside the chassis rail there is a steel sleeve that the bolt goes through. (This sleeve, which should be welded into place, prevents the leg being compressed when the nut and bolt are tightened.) The bolt has rusted to the sleeve and turning the bolt has caused the sleeve to break away from the chassis rail. (If the bolt is coated with copper grease before fitting this problem is avoided.)
Heating the bolt will (hopefully) allow it to break free of the sleeve, allowing you to tap the bolt out. (Patiently apply heat from both ends allowing the bolt to get well heated along its length before attempting to tap with hammer.)
You should really weld the sleeve back into place, but if you apply plenty of copper grease to the bolt it should be OK to leave the sleeve unattached (but I don't recommend the latter option).
But,
before you go to all this bother............

Why do you wish to remove these bolts? If their threaded section are fine, why not just leave them in situ and reassemble with new nylock nuts?

[newguy]

The bolts are freely turning, its just i can not get them out of the holes, i have given then a bang with a hammer and there is no movement at all.
I think that there was some sort of sleeving system i think?????

Inside the chassis rail there is a steel sleeve that the bolt goes through. (This sleeve, which should be welded into place, prevents the leg being compressed when the nut and bolt are tightened.) The bolt has rusted to the sleeve and turning the bolt has caused the sleeve to break away from the chassis rail. (If the bolt is coated with copper grease before fitting this problem is avoided.)
Heating the bolt will (hopefully) allow it to break free of the sleeve, allowing you to tap the bolt out. (Patiently apply heat from both ends allowing the bolt to get well heated along its length before attempting to tap with hammer.)
You should really weld the sleeve back into place, but if you apply plenty of copper grease to the bolt it should be OK to leave the sleeve unattached (but I don't recommend the latter option).
But,
before you go to all this bother............


Why do you wish to remove these bolts? If their threaded section are fine, why not just leave them in situ and reassemble with new nylock nuts?

Reason Being is i need to take one of the bolts out that holds the engine stabilizer. that bolts on to the exhaust or do i not need this?

[sprint95m]

I had overlooked your requirement for the engine stabiliser.
Even with new engine mounts, a Sprint engine moves a fair amount, so I would use the stabiliser.

So in that case, you definitely have to remove the one bolt from your 1850 using a proper method.
It is a bit drastic, but as you have gained access by removing the engine, you can attack your Sprint with an angle grinder (or gas cutting gear) to cut the bolt (near its head ), slicing through the chassis rail in the process.
(Of course, it is also possible to fabricate a replacement stabiliser bracket, if you prefer.)


Now that you have them both removed, are you able to tell if Sprint and 1850 subframes are identical except for the engine mounting brackets?

[Nick C]

Now that you have them both removed, are you able to tell if Sprint and 1850 subframes are identical except for the engine mounting brackets?

They are, I have both sitting next to each other in my garage...

[newguy]

Hmm i have to remove both a bolt from the sprint and a bold from the 1850.
I have found that they have a sleeve on the bottom end of the bolt that the upper bush sits on.

I Don't know if i want to go cutting the sub frame and chassis just yet. Ill try the heat as my first option.
I think i would need the stabilizer as well just looking at everything, i don't want the exhaust knocking around etc.

Anybody have any ideas what sort of brake bias valve if i was to fit one would be best?

[Sprintinbits]

Hmm i have to remove both a bolt from the sprint and a bold from the 1850.
I have found that they have a sleeve on the bottom end of the bolt that the upper bush sits on.

You might find that this sleeve is supposed to be part of the chassis rail...originally.



Hope this helps a bit