DTR - Project Recommission 1972 'Dolomite' Manual

[GTS290N]

What about a fan blowing the hot air out? Instead of sucking ambient air in?
I'm not sure what would happen if the fan ran whilst the car was at speed.....

[James467]

The fan does run at speed, it did today on the motorway. I don't think under bonnet temps are too much of an issue but just as an experiment I measured them using a temp probe zip tied to the air inlet for the heater so it was pointing at potentially the hottest area in the bay, up top and high! Engine cold in the sun it was 30 degrees under the bonnet, on a run it was about 40 degrees and stationary it stabilised at 62 degs then when moving again it quickly dropped. On the motorway at constant speed in traffic it was around 35 degrees all of this was done with the bonnet closed.

So I don't believe a standard car need louvres at anything under 30 degrees ambient.

Then the power loss thing happened again, under load and going up hill.

It doesn't misfire it just cuts out, if you put your foot on the throttle then the engine just dies.

Got it to the hard shoulder and waited for 5 minutes and got it started again and off the motorway, it then did the same on the Odiham bypass and this time it would not run properly. It would just start then as you revved it would just cut, missfire and die. Plenty of fuel, 1/2 a tank (I checked inside the tank!). Coil was very hot, 70 degrees with the infra red thermometer. Then after about 15-20 minutes
I got it started and in my frustration gave it a really good rev, that seemed to sort it out.

It does only seem to happen on the motorway.

In the meantime I will switch back to points and carry a spare coil and see if it happens again, if it does then I can quickly swap the coil and see if that is the issue. I know I said that it may not be a fuel issue (I don't believe it is a vaporisation issue at all as it happens whist the car is moving.) but I wonder if the pump is bad and not supplying enough under load causing an air lock. It is new but that doesn't necessarily mean it's any good.

[GTS290N]

Lecky ignition or coil or both. Your planned switch to points will determine...classic electronic ignition failure.

[James467]

Points are back on, genuine nos Lucas ones as well. I have a few Delco dizzys so I reconditioned one and set it up specifically for this, once the problem is solved and the Optronic is back on I can have a spare set up on points ready to go.

I also set the plug gaps back to standard.

I also had a look at the filter in the pump. I know I said that I didnt think it was fuel but I found this....







Pulled the pump and cleaned it out, I don't think anything has got into the carbs but I'll drop the float chambers and double check later.

Also fitted an additional fuel filter under the car which is easier to inspect!



Just need to check the float chambers, I am pretty sure I can do this without removing the carbs, then I can start up the car and set the timing (points gap was set when the dizzy was out of the car.). I don't want to take it for a run until I have a spare coil with me.

[SprintMWU773V]

Your next job is remove tank and swill out? I'm surprised it ran at all with that muck in the filter.

[James467]

Yes, I had a look in the tank and there is some sediment but with 1/2 a tank of fuel in there I'll wait until its a bit lower first!

The tank was spotless when it went in so that sediment must have come from the fuel station.

[James467]

Can't do much at the moment as I am waiting for the coil to arrive.

Back to temperature senders, I wanted to see where 90 degrees was on my gauge so using the Robsport sender I rigged up a test.









Yep, it's a thermos filled with water! Not very scientific I know but it kept me occupied for 30 minutes!

[SprintMWU773V]

Yes, I had a look in the tank and there is some sediment but with 1/2 a tank of fuel in there I'll wait until its a bit lower first!

The tank was spotless when it went in so that sediment must have come from the fuel station.

Time to change fuel station? Surely they have filters?

[James467]

I have only used the Shell station on Fleet Road, the same place I fill up the Land Rover.

When I pull the tank I'll have a good look in it, there is the possibility that there is an unseen area with some surface rust. If there is I can throw some Bilt Hamber in to get rid of it.

[Carledo]

Can't do much at the moment as I am waiting for the coil to arrive.

Back to temperature senders, I wanted to see where 90 degrees was on my gauge so using the Robsport sender I rigged up a test.









Yep, it's a thermos filled with water! Not very scientific I know but it kept me occupied for 30 minutes!

I'd have followed on from this and letting the water in the thermos cool naturally find out exactly what temperature is "normal" on the guage!

Then, of course, you actually have to install the "test" sender in the engine, since they all seem to be different!

Steve

[James467]

I'd have followed on from this and letting the water in the thermos cool naturally find out exactly what temperature is "normal" on the guage!

Then, of course, you actually have to install the "test" sender in the engine, since they all seem to be different!

Steve

Yep did that, all seems fine with this sender so I have swapped them over. So I can confirm that the best senders to get are the Robsport and LD Part ones.

Right then, so the problem was the coil which must have been breaking down under load. I suspect that the rubbish in the fuel filter wasn't helping the situation but since that has been cleared all is fine. I have also been checking the inline filter under the car and it is clear as a whistle. The tank seems fine, I wonder if the debris in the filter was always there what I mean by that is that I received it with that rubbish in it, it could have been restocked after a return. So in the future I'll be checking fuel pumps before fitting.

Anyway, new coil fitted, relocated to the bulkhead with the Lumenition box and all is calm, happy and relaxed under DTR's bonnet! I will give it another run just to be sure but the coil is the Lumenition coil that they sell with a new ballast resistor, my logic being that if there is a problem with the optical switch then getting a replacement under warranty shouldn't be an issue as it's running the 'correct' coil.



I have also tided up the wiring and relays to the fan and Lumenition system, installed a separate fuse box for the headlights and fitted a fuse from the Lumenition control box to the coil to protect it.

This is as far as I want to go with the car. 'Dolomite's' (1850's) especially one owner early ones like this are getting rare now and I don't want to ruin it. So as there is another car that I would like to purchase the time has come for someone else to take over from me. The mileage is genuine, I have MOT's to back this up. It will be sold with a fresh MOT and as the engine is just approaching 1000 miles since being rebuilt, I will give it a first service and start a new Passport to Service book.

It is currently nestling in my parents garage so I'll wash it and take some photos and it should be advertised by the end of the week.



Feel free to contact me if you are interested.

[James467]

There we go, DTR is up for sale!

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=34263

[James467]

SOLD SOLD SOLD!!!

Oil change and a fresh MOT, passed with no advisories!





A quick blast down the M3 and up Beacon Hill to confirm that the cutting out issue has been solved which it has. It is running so much better now with the new coil.

All ready for a hand over to Andy tomorrow.