The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Thanks Phil will give it a try

Regards

Daz

Cleaning your pistons with a powered wire brush is a turd of an idea. Turn the engine so they're all halfway down their bores, add some paraffin and let it have a soak for a day or two, then bring the pistons up the bores and wipe the carbon away. This technique will also help to free-off any sticky piston rings.

No stem seals to worry about in the Triumph OHV engine.

Jod Clark wrote:Cleaning your pistons with a powered wire brush is a turd of an idea. Turn the engine so they're all halfway down their bores, add some paraffin and let it have a soak for a day or two, then bring the pistons up the bores and wipe the carbon away. This technique will also help to free-off any sticky piston rings.

No stem seals to worry about in the Triumph OHV engine.

So i wasn't too far off the mark then? .

Jod, I bow to your superior knowledge...

Hi guys

Just thought I would let you know I will be rebuilding the engine tomorrow, The head gasket set was delivered yesterday and I have been out and bought the compound for grinding the valves down, also a new oil filter will be applied and new oil once the cylinder head is back on with the rocker cover.

is there anything I should do before I try and start her up once she is put back together.

Hopefully all will be good.

Kind Regards

Daz

Once she's all bolted back, go round and double-check that you haven't forgotten anything (including water and oil - it's surprisingly easy to do ). Before you put the plug leads back on, and preferably with the plugs out, crank her over for a few seconds until the oil light goes out to prime the new filter. This should also give the fuel pump a good chance to refill the float chambers.

Then fit plugs and leads and flick the switch. Do not forget to re-torque the head bolts once she's been warmed up. It's generally recommended to do this while the engine is still warm on cast-iron heads but you have to remove the rocker shaft to get at some of the studs on these, and you need to set the valve clearances when cold, so that's a PITA. As long as you do re-torque them (to allow for the gasket compressing as it heats up) it's fine doing it once it's cooled down again.

When re-torquing don't just apply torque wrench and pull - you'll probably end up over-torquing some of them. The correct method is to undo each stud about 1/4 turn then re-tighten according to the normal tightening sequence (no need to slacken them all at once - slacken and immediately tighten each one in turn)

Hi Guys

Well I put the parafin down the cylinders to help with cleaning, but the parafin kept going down into the sump.

So last weekend I bought the engine from one of my previous posts for £50, and diesel to skegness, 137 miles each way lol

so today im in the process of taking out the old engine and putting the new one in, I couldn't get the valves lapped in properly so my engineer friend from work is going to clean it up etc.

while the original engine is out, over time im going to rebuild the bottom end, and have basically a recon engine.

Hopefully once welding is done I will run the car on the engine I have bought, until the original engine is ready to go in.

Just thought I would give an update.

Regards

Daz

Hi guys

Its been a while, thought i would come and give you a quick update.

All is going well, the old engine is dead, there was a nasty crack in the cylinder head, and after removing the sump, there was lots of play.

Im ready to start welding, just waiting for the mig from work.

just need to buy the sills.

Also need to buy, front and rear windscreen rubber seals.

The engine we bought from ebay for £50, runs ok, took a while to get it there, but had a prob with fuel getting up. So may fit an electric pump when the engine goes back in.

Regards

Daz

Hi Guys

I thought I would download some pics, to show you the progress that im slowly making.





















Ready for welding, just waiting for the mig to come from my mates.

regards

Darren

Brilliant stuff. This car probably wouldn't have survived without your kind of determination, keep the updates coming please.

Thanks for kind words John.

It has been hard work, especially on these hot summer days we are having at the mo.

Also the colour isn't Sienna brown like I thought, its Maple, so hopefully will get a good match from paints4u. Also struggling to find Hammerite Brown to go over the stonechip once she's been welded.

I am aiming for spring 2011 to have her on the road, so fingers crossed.

Thanks Again

Darren

Fingers crossed here too. Fantastic work there, cannot say how pleased I am to see a brown 1500TC receiving this amount of work and dedication.

DazasDolly wrote:Thanks for kind words John.

It has been hard work, especially on these hot summer days we are having at the mo.

Also the colour isn't Sienna brown like I thought, its Maple, so hopefully will get a good match from paints4u. Also struggling to find Hammerite Brown to go over the stonechip once she's been welded.

I am aiming for spring 2011 to have her on the road, so fingers crossed.

Thanks Again

Darren

you could mix red and green Hammerite to make brown(I have a fair few tools and machines that are painted in hammerite and some makers have their own colours,so I have been mixing on a palate to do small touch ups rather than repaints,Dad was a printer and used to mix hes own inks)

Not done alot this week, due to me being on a course for work, had to study.

Mig welder has finally turned up, im dreading this bit. Never used a mig in my life so its going to be a big learning curve.

Also I have now found that ronseal do a brown paint similar to hammerite, but also hammerite do a chestnut brown, so i will give them a look.

The rest of the heater is now painted, I will take some pics at the weekend and put them on, it look bloody good

Kind Regards

Darren

Tractor paint........?
Your local agricultural supplier can supply brown paint (very close to Sienna brown) and primer too.
Cheaper and longer lasting than Hammerite.
Can be brushed or sprayed.