The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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I like it ....................a LOT

Little progress this week. Last week i did rebuild the overdrive. I did buy some years ago a few!! new Volvo o/d's. They were only the middle piece with the pump and the valves in it. The housing is slighlty different so it was take out and refit in the Triumph housing. This week decided wich gearsets i'm going to use. I did dismantle all my gearboxes some ten years ago and per gearbox a crate to have all together. So it's easy to find a good set and in a case of emergency not to have one dismantled.
Did a clean of all parts and am going to put it togheter next week (i think ). I alway's modify the reverse casting piece what's on the rail. I hate pulling a lever so it goes in without pulling. Just machine it angled and about 2mm higher than 3/4. This way it does not accidentally goes in reverse but pushing right it goes in, like most modern cars.

Tonight i made some brackets that hold the plenum. Also checked the heater pipes but these are also going to be different. It was with my old engine a bit messy between the bulkhead and rear of the engine. just enough space for heater hoses and T pieces for the evaporator take off. I make some new ones, a bit shorter and the take off already welded on so no tight curved hoses etc.

Also tried to fit the 123 ignition with a new angled cap from a Fiat what's a straight fit and does fit under the manifold.

Jeroen

Awesome!! .... Fancy doing one for me?!

I love the pic looking up the bore. Engineering artwork!

Tom.

Nice progress Jeroen! Do you work on it this week? If possible, maybe I'll drop by and have a look myself

Hello Ronald,

Next week weer. This week some house related werk. How about next dinsdag?

Jeroen

That looks superb, but why is the engine blue? Should be orange?

I thought a brown car needs a blue engine. When i paint it orange i do not know how to fit it. To the outside or the inside and that can cause a start of another discussion.

Jeroen

What's that bit that looks like a combustion chamber with a heater either side? I know it isn't that...

Awesome work btw....I want one like this...

Jonners

Hello Jon, i really don't know what you mean. Which picture?

Jeroen

Hi Jeroen I have heard people talk of "wellseal" piston rings and wonder what type of ring you use and why.
I look at a ring and wonder why the gap is verticle when an angled gap would seal better as the compression would seal completly.

Very interesting question.

First i do not know what make of piston rings i use. It's a chrome top one, a cast middle and a 1 piece oil control. It comes in an dirty , ex piston or whatever what's lying there box from my machine shop. They know i want quality parts and i think they take from different types/makes rings to make a set as i do not like the 3 piece oil control ring. These are not cheap as for a sprint set i have to pay about 150 euro. BUT, in my former 260.000km use and abuse dolomite engine i had about 0,5 liter oil consumpsion á 10.000km at the end. They are good. I can ask what make it is but i do not think it's a set because they can order seperate rings at size and not as an engineset.

It is a reliable machineshop that does what you ask. Not own minded. The good thing is they are very cheap for machining for me because all the overhauling of my work goes there also.
For example last year i had an classic Ferrari v12 with oval piston holes and small ends. Cylinders and pistons on size, nothing wrong but i think an assembly fault of the former owner/machineshop in the past. Pistons are about 350GPB x12
Called them if they had a solution and they ordered 12 piston pins from a suzuki alto á 8gpb a piece. They had the same dimensions but were .15mm thicker so a little bit of roaming in the pistons and small ends and all ok again. I like the thinking of this shop.

As for the gap, i think it has to do with expanding. The only way the rings go is up and down in the groove and with angled gaps they are pushed away sideway's and starting to turn in the grooves?

Jeroen

In special occasions people use "gap less" rings like Total Seal from the US, these more or less prevent to drain the dangerous Nytro into the crank case.

Don't see even a small advantage of these rings in normal daily use. After Diamond honing and good modern rings you get a more than perfect seal.

If you wane upgrade you could go to modern type 2 parts rings. When we had our JE pistons made (despite other roomers, we kicked that of already in the 90's, and JE has now these Sprint pistons in there files)

On our request they made in the way that these pistons took the by that time modern Mercedes 190E (Mahle) rings.

After a whole season there was still no oil what so ever in the breeder tank, use a big connection hose, not like the small original one. so a very good seal after all.

Hans

Jeroen as usual rour WAY to fast with your answers, I'm writhing mine and see your are done already.

BTW the Mahle rings are about the same price, and the oil ring is a 2 piece assembly counting the coil spring behind it too.

We discus this next Friday night over a beer during the Helendoorn Rally, see you than.

Hans

Hello Hans, you did miss the Group B rallycars saturday morning at the Luttenberg Ring. Also a Metro 6R4. Very rare in Holland.

An update.

Tonight i did finish my extra camshaft oilfeed. As you know i'm not a fan of the extra oil feed type of the ohv engines because they take a lot of amount of oil from the mains and rods only to spill it under the rocker cover. A 1850/sprint has three flat spots at the front journal of the jackshaft that creates a pulsating oilflow to the head. Three times per rotation of the jackshaft. (an ohv has one flat spot at the rear of the camshaft to have a pulsating oil flow to the head)

The sprint suffers from oilstarvation of the rear camshaft bearing. I wanted the same pulsating at the rear at the exact timing as the front. I did drill an extra take off in the rear jackshaft bearing. To know how the front is timed it was very simple. I had some airpressure in the oilfeed hole at the engine deck. It was very audible when the hiss started and ended. I made some marks when it started and ended. The same thing i did at the rear when the flow had to flow.

Then i machined some slots in the rear journal. I did check again with airpressure in the new rear take off and finetuned it. the front flat spots are not all the same so every puls is not the same. The timing is now max 2 degrees off at one puls and the two others are the same. I can have that one exact then i have to machine the front flat spot but 2 degrees is fine for me.

Jeroen