The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Mad Mart wrote:My second module is still not producing a spark. I just want to check I wired this correctly. I am using a brand new 1.5ohm coil and it checks out ok at 1.5 ohms (and working fine on points). I have the ballasted ignition wire connected to the +ve side of the coil and the rev counter lead to the -ve. I then connected the red lead of the module to the +ve terminal of the coil and the black lead from the module to the -ve terminal of the coil. When I switch on the ignition (engine not running) I have 12V on both terminals of the coil.

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Mart,

Firstly, if you have a 1.5 ohm coil then you will need to run a separate 12v feed from the fuse box to the module. You will be getting ~9.5v when running due to the ballast, and the module needs 12v to run reliably.

For what its worth (and any module issues aside), perhaps buy a 12v coil (3 ohms) and run the same setup you have. This way the module gets a nice 12v when running, and you can remove any of the original wiring from the coil. That is..run a new 12v from the fuse box to the +ve side of the coil, run the red 12v from the module from the +ve side, and then the black from the module to the -ve side of the coil (it says no other cables, but you will need the black and white cable for the rev counter).

These aside...Im afraid they seem to have issues with the K4 kit...I personally think a bad batch as the K7 module and even my old TR6 module worked without any hassles.

Cheers

soe8m wrote:When you are not sure of the coil and don't want to fry your ignition module you can put a 5 amp fuse between the coil - (1) and ignition module. This way max 5 amp can be switched what is normal for an conventional ignition. A wrong coil can draw 8 amps trough your electronic ignition and have it burned inside but cannot now because of the fuse.

Jeroen

I have an additional fuse box in the glove box - can I run the red wire from the coil inside the car to the fuse box to a 5amp fuse, and then back again to the dizzy, or is that too long?

The black needs the fuse.

Jeroen

soe8m wrote:The black needs the fuse.

Jeroen

OK - so same question then......will length of wire have any effect?

I don't think so.

Jeroen

misterp wrote: Mart,

Firstly, if you have a 1.5 ohm coil then you will need to run a separate 12v feed from the fuse box to the module. You will be getting ~9.5v when running due to the ballast, and the module needs 12v to run reliably.

Cheers

No I don't. If you look in one of my previous posts I have already been told by the seller that these modules will run at 6V.

I've just fitted my third module and that fired up first time. Thing is, the tickover seems to be at it's highest RPM at around 24 degs. BTDC. Not taken it for a spin yet but at least the module is working.

Mad Mart wrote: No I don't. If you look in one of my previous posts I have already been told by the seller that these modules will run at 6V.

Apologies for the mis-information Mart, I read your post at a different time to replying so forgot that you had checked with Powerspark that it ran OK on 6V.

All good anyway...sounds like you had a similar experience to me in that eventually you received a module that worked.
Im running at 16 BTDC and using 95RON its just a degree off pinking.

Biggest difference I have found is the ease of starting now....choke out, few turns of the engine, pump of the accelerator and away it goes.