RUK - Project Recommission 1972 'Dolomite' Auto

[tinweevil]

You could have had one of these turds nearly new with my compliments (& insults)

[James467]

The coil is the spare I had laying around the garage!

If it won't rev I would suspect a perished berg diaphram. Easy to change....

The merest pin hole in a diaphram will do damage to the running and pick up. One of the two main reasons I hate bergs...

Thanks Jonners, I haven't had much experience with bergs, was planning on overhauling them anyway.

Tony, I think the wire's been rubbing against the rotor arm base.

[James467]

I am having a go at killing the rust on the inside of the tank.

Haven't tried this before but I thought I'd give it a go and see what happens.

http://www.bilthamber.com/fuel-tank-cleaning-kit

Flushed the tank with hot water and Surfex HD then let it soak for 2 hours. I poured that into a container so it can be reused to clean the carbs/engine etc...

Then mixed a load of the Deox C up with very hot water and poured that into the tank. It's soaking now but I'll drain it and inspect the tank every couple of hours. Given the level of corrosion it may require an overnight soaking.



Sender's back in just so I can invert the tank and get the solution everywhere.

Fingers crossed!

[tony g]

Watching with interest

Tony

[markas]

The fuel tank is not leaking, however the sender doesn't work very well. It sort of works, after a squirt of WD40 it does read on the gauge but it's not great so I'm going to need a new one really.

I saw RUK on a trailer at Stoneleigh two weeks ago. I can't believe how much you've managed to do since then!
I do have two used senders that were in among the spares that came with my 1850. Will test them tomorrow and see if they work; if they do, you're welcome to one.

[James467]

I saw RUK on a trailer at Stoneleigh two weeks ago. I can't believe how much you've managed to do since then!
I do have two used senders that were in among the spares that came with my 1850. Will test them tomorrow and see if they work; if they do, you're welcome to one.

Thanks! Did you see her in the cow shed? I was on my way back from collecting her.

After a clean up and soak in the rust remover the sender seems to be working properly again. Its an easy job to replace so I'll just put it back in for now.

[James467]

I'm not normally amazed but WOW!!!!

This is what the inside of the fuel tank was like...



After soaking for 24 hours in Bilt Hamber Deox C I pressure washed the inside of the tank and hosed it out with clean very hot water.

This is what it looks like now...





I'm amazed! As a bonus the solution I poured out of the tank is still useable, at the moment the air box is sitting in it, the inside was rusty.

It seems to turn the rust into a gel which can then be removed with a pressure washer or by scraping. So the little bits that I have missed should be dissolved when I fill the tank full of fuel. Any errant solids will be picked up by the new fuel filter.

I just need to put some cavity wax on the boot floor under the tank to prevent any rust and I can reinstall the tank and blow through the fuel line.

[SprintMWU773V]

Does the process include anything to protect the steel in the tank? I did once clean a tank using the kit from Frosts and used 'tank sealer' awful stuff, broke up and blocked my fuel lines.

[James467]

No, it just says fill the tank as soon as possible.

[James467]

I could spray the inside with WD40 through the sender hole, that would protect it until I fill it. The petrol should dissolve the WD40 without any detrimental effect.

[Mahesh]

Push some string through the sender pipe and leave some slack, so you can
pull in both directions afterwards.

Only saying because I used Slosh, and the end of the sender got blocked, still
brings back bad memories.

[James467]

Ah you misunderstood me, I'm not using a tank sealer.

Which is why I pressure tested it, doesn't leak.

Just sprayed in some WD40 to prevent any flash rusting.

[James467]

Ok so a quick update.

I did another pressure test and it does have two pinholes now, not a surprise given the level of corrosion on the inside and outside of the tank.



Not to worry though, I have put NWL's in for the time being whilst I have this one professionally repaired.

I dont want to use any tank sealer, I'd rather have the bottom soldered up.

Incidentally, I had a peek inside NWLs tank and it doesn't have the tray that the sender float sits in. It is a replacement tank, it has Austin Rover stickers on it with a part number so can't be pattern. I am just wondering if that tray was removed on later cars.

[SprintMWU773V]

Mmm the inner tank should be there. I purchased a NOS one with Austin Rover logos on and that had a tank and also so did a very nearly new one I rescued from a scrap car, again had AR logos and had a tank in.

The tank is there is prevent fuel sloshing around and playing havoc with your fuel gauge.

Incidentally I thought for a long time that you must where you can fit an original tank due to the size and shape etc. but since I've worked in motorsport I've come to appreciate the benefits of a non-standard tank which can be made from scratch to fit in the space and once covered you'd never know. Some food for thought as good tanks become extinct in the years to come. Not cheap but then how much for a NOS genuine one if you can find one?

[James467]

Hmm, I'm tempted to check again just in case I was being blind!

how much for a NOS genuine one if you can find one

Thats the million dollar question, probably about a million dollars!

Fuel hose has arrived, I can't start the car again until I have refurbed the carbs, the floats sticking on both and they leak fuel everywhere (at least I know the pump works!!) not to mention what Jonners said about the diaphragm so I'm waiting for the refurb kit to arrive from Burlen, that should arrive by the weekend.

That will mark the completion of the fuel and ignition system. I'll then have a look at the cooling system, mainly the water pump, I'll run it up hot and check for leaks. Hoses will be replaced as a matter of course and I suspect the radiator is leaking so i'll drop it down to Doug at bagshot radiators (if he's still going) for a re-core. Then by the beginning of April I'll be onto the brakes and electrical system, main beam has stopped working and despite the washer sounding like it's working it isn't sucking any more!! Then on to the welding, some new tyres at the beginning of May and a tune up, pre MOT check and an MOT hopefully in the second week of May.

Well thats the plan anyway!

And we know what can happen with plans and Dolomites!