The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Ummm narp not the part at all i will show ya when i drop the sub frame again.
Most likely not this weekend.

Maybe ill try tonight hehe.

newguy wrote:Ummm narp not the part at all i will show ya when i drop the sub frame again.
Most likely not this weekend.

Maybe ill try tonight hehe.

I think you'll find that the same type of steel tube is used as a sleeve for the front and back subframe mounts.
When fitting a subframe it is important to ensure the back upper bushes (the ones between subframe and chassis rail) are in compression. If they are not, the subframe can move (slightly) from side to side, which I guess is what causes the subframe bolt holes to enlarge, and that can't be good for handling either.

I've not encountered this with a Dolomite (not yet!), but on other cars (P6 Rover and various mark 3 & 4 Cortinas) I have seen the suspension bolts being seized. Repair is tricky, you need to take careful measurements before starting any cutting!


Hopefully applying heat will free the bolts allowing their removal.

I know there are sleeves in the sub frame.
There are also some sort of sleeve below the sub frame over the BOLTS!
I'm sure you would have seen this before?>

Anyway i found the pics of my block before my rebuild at the end of 06
Has only done 2000Miles since then, Barely Run in.

Inside the chassis rail there is a steel sleeve that the bolt goes through. (This sleeve, which should be welded into place, prevents the leg being compressed when the nut and bolt are tightened.) The bolt has rusted to the sleeve and turning the bolt has caused the sleeve to break away from the chassis rail. (If the bolt is coated with copper grease before fitting this problem is avoided.)

Alternatively, not being in the corrosive UK climate, you may find you have suffered a bi-metallic corrosion between the bolt and the 'top hat' spacer which sits beneath the ferrule tube. The ferrule tube could be fine and the bolt and corroded top at are spinning within this. A reciprocating saw can sort this out without damage to the chassis leg/ferrule tube so long as you remember that the ferrue tube sticks out of the bottom of the leg by some 15mm or so; cut at bottom of top bush mount to avoid this. It would be relatively simple (and cheap) to then replace bolt and top hat spacer

xvivalve wrote:

Inside the chassis rail there is a steel sleeve that the bolt goes through. (This sleeve, which should be welded into place, prevents the leg being compressed when the nut and bolt are tightened.) The bolt has rusted to the sleeve and turning the bolt has caused the sleeve to break away from the chassis rail. (If the bolt is coated with copper grease before fitting this problem is avoided.)

Alternatively, not being in the corrosive UK climate, you may find you have suffered a bi-metallic corrosion between the bolt and the 'top hat' spacer which sits beneath the ferrule tube. The ferrule tube could be fine and the bolt and corroded top at are spinning within this. A reciprocating saw can sort this out without damage to the chassis leg/ferrule tube so long as you remember that the ferrue tube sticks out of the bottom of the leg by some 15mm or so; cut at bottom of top bush mount to avoid this. It would be relatively simple (and cheap) to then replace bolt and top hat spacer

I think i might go with the option of cutting the bolts and replacing them.
TO much stuffing around for me.

Thanks for the Idea

You do realise, Stew, that we have all spent considerably longer discussing this problem, than the time it would have taken me to solve the problem (ie,heat up and remove bolt- approx 5 minutes each).

Haha yea probably but then others that read this will know how to do it.
And what part im talking about.

Haha

gOTA GET IT DONE!!!!

Tried out a few polishing method, on my better timing chain cover.

From this


To This





Might do the carbs and manifold.

Snap! did that as well last week...and the oil pump and the pump cover and the oil filler cap and the oil pick-up and the alternator and the dip stick, must get round to doing the Dizzy. Keep it going, I like shiney bits.

Hahah nice yea im just going to do them and the carbs.
Most likely paint the block but i dunno yet.

Might polish it up to be anoying.

Any how ordered my Gasket set head Gasket with Manilfold Gasket.
$120NZ
And the Rest of the Motor Not including the Crank Seals
$42NZ

Do i need the Crank Seals?

nice work....gotta' ask, how are you polishing it up to get it like that ?

straylight wrote:nice work....gotta' ask, how are you polishing it up to get it like that ?

As i am so cheap i was using material wraps round a bolt on the cordless drill, but then i splashed out on sum polishing disks and got some shares in some autosol, put the disks in a decent drill press and set the speed not to fast but not to slow and just polished away, small fine places i did by hand. You will find a nice speed and don't stay in one place at one time, as the autosol heats up and goes hard or something. Less polish is better.
I wanted it to be shiny as i have a electric fan, and can see this cover really well

ta mate, another job on the hit list.

I Think i might only do my carbs, timing chain and head.

These are how the carbs come up.

My GASKET SET AND CONVERSION SET TURNED UP THIS MORNING (Only bloody ordered them yesterday was not expecting it)
Was told i was not getting the seals, but they turned up also.
Happy as
$200 NZ For the Lot including Tax and Freight.


Pics Of The Carbs
Compared Etc








Enjoy.

Just had a really good look at my head gasket with my dad and a friend who is a mechanic.
Any we are pretty positive that our theory that the timing cover what stopping the head from being pulled down nice and tight.
Hence why it wouldn't seal, i am going to pull the bottom end out and have it balanced etc.
While it is all apart i am going to have the block planned to get the timing cover and block totally flush so she has no reason to pull down wrong at all.
I am also going to re new the head bolts and studs.