The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

I have just fitted a brand new 46 amp Lucas alternator to my Sprint. It cost me $200 (Aust). Honestly, it's been like a blood transfusion to a dying man!

Thanks Jonners, no sign of any further leaks, no drop in brake fluid level. Watching it carefully

Thanks Andrew, during the first 700km or so, the voltage gauge sat at 14V, now it has dropped to 12.5 V and over an extended run, keeps dropping. I reckon the voltage gauge is spot on, confirmed it with a multimeter. Ignition light goes out, but battery isn't charging with the engine doing good revs.

The alternator was a second hand 17ACR I scored off ebay (replaced the 15ACR I had in it).

surely it couldn't be something as simple as a loose fan belt ?

just had a check.....

no more will be said about this

but, with the back end silenced at last and a check of the brake system, trip home from son's schoolboy aussie rules and a chance to tackle a decent corner. Only pulled 4500 but she has oomph and the steering, so precise ! puts the modern to shame ! I'm up to 820km of running in. Last 40km trip at 3000 in OD 4th and not a hint of trouble. Oil level is now stable. Must remember to take the video cam thingy on a trip.

where did you get the alternator from Keith ?

must get the speedo working as well

stu

Great to hear that you are managing to sort out the teething problems. Have fun!

Stu, my supplier was Toowoomba Auto Electrical service Phone no.- (07)46321173. I had it the next day and it went straight in on the same plug and belt. It just sparked up the whole show- I can even see behind me when reversing now. The rear window demister has never worked though, despite correct connections and warning light function.

okay, kind of a catch up and running report. The sprint has been busy running into Naracoorte (80km round trip) and back for various sporting activities. She is getting out once a fortnight and niggles are surfacing.

The speedo still isn't working. Checked both ends of the cable and refitted it several times into the back of the speedo, but no even a jiggle on the dial.

still going through oil. Not as much as she was initially, but she's burning the stuff. Telltale black smoke changing down to third from fourth. Something, somewhere in the rebuild has let me down. I can't find an long enough adapter to check the compression (I have a tester) so can't rule out rings just yet. Head has been re torqued three times now, each time a little more tensioning being required, doing it stone cold, checking the torque then freeing off before re torquing.

stoopid headlights Apart from a dodgy earth on the DS headlight, they are just pitiful specimens. Too used to modern halogens I think, and they are vital on these open roads with bouncing wildlife on the verge. So, halogen conversion coming up. I see that the conversion replaces the mount and the halogen gets inserted through the back, as in moderns. Haven't found a source for them in Oz yet, so if anyone has any ideas, please let me know. The wiring mods look easy.

My parents visited from queensland over christmas and I lent Dad the clapped out old stag I bought (for not much money really) and we went for a drive. Took some videos, just the one pic of the stag overtaking the sprint. Dad wouldn't wind the stag out beyond 120km/hr



wide open roads, temp stayed low, some tomfoolery on a dirt section of road. Starting to get hesitation after prolonged high and steady revs from the sprint, I suspect fuel starvation so I'll check the connection into the fuel tank, the usual culprit. The fuel filter will be replaced as well.

The ignition has been retarded back to 10 btdc after lots of faffing around and but she still pinking under load at low revs in anything above first gear.

The excitement was on christmas eve when a load bang and rattle from the engine bay was followed by a solid object bouncing along the bottom of the car at about 120km/hr. Nothing sounding amiss from the engine, so I turned round and found a long bolt, suspiciously triumph like, in the middle of the road. Not too many bolts that long in the engine bay. First instinct was that is was the oil filter housing bolt and I looked for 4 litres of engine oil under the car, then the penny dropped and I checked the alternator "pivot" bolt. Sure enough, the alternator was at a slight incline and missing the bolt. I couldn't find the spacer (nor the nut). Nursed the sprint home and machined up (probably to grand a word for chopping up a bolt shank and drilling it out) a new spacer, fitted a split washer (I'll buy a nyloc as soon as I get the chance) and pondered whether there was a reason the original fitment had the bolt coming from the front, not the rear.

On one hot day, the temperature crept up and up, got the 3/4, which is alarming territory. I had been driving responsibly and on a 38 degree day, inflicted pain on my passengers (daughter, son and her friend) by using the auxiliary radiator (aka internal heater) which dropped it to 2/3. I figure that as long as there is change in the temperature then all is still working. Nursed her home again just in time to have the top of the expansion bottle open up and drop about a litre of coolant on the shed floor. I replaced the cap, refilled and she is still running around half way on the temp gauge. I'm going to do some calibration of the sender and gauge I think, so I know exactly what temp the engine is running at.

so, things on the to do list are:

source and fit halogens
change oil and fit new spin on oil filter conversion kit
polish those wheels.
check for fuel flow and change fuel filter
put the steering wheel on square (aligned with straight ahead position !)
use the EGO sensor and kit I made to check mixture of engine
wait until it is dark and check dynamic timing.

it is still a marvelous feeling to walk out and see the car when I'm working in the shed, teething problems are still there, but not enough to dampen my enthusiasm, although there is a niggling feeling about the oil consumption remaining.

happy new year everyone and thanks to all for not mentioning the cricket.

stu

Well you didn't mention the world cup much so it would hardly be cricket of us pohms to add to your woes....

With your pinking issue I wonder if you have the correct advance curve springs in your dizzy? Only a timing light would tell. I find it pretty hard to get UK spec sprints to pink at all, even on the lower octane unleaded.

Did you get the old Nissan 200 ZX or was it called a sylvia? That had 4 round 5/14 lights. Some have used XJ 40 lights but I'm not sure how common those are in Oz.

All later 12 vane pump dollies have the bolt in from the back. Not sure I'd really want it working its way out forwards into the
rad! I had one recently that actually seized into the alternator casing. The good old dissimilar metals bit. The head sheared off and the 2 locknuts on the other end was just a failure too and no where to get a hacksaw at it. In the end I just left it until the engine was out for some other reason and carefully drilled it out from the front. The idea of your one escaping of its own will is therefore somewhat ironic. The spacer will be the same on your spares 1850, TR7 or any other Triumph of the period.

Nice to see some sunny weather even if it is on the other side of the planet.

Jonners

I have XJ40 lamps on my car.
These are made by Lucas and are long lived (18 years so far). Just as well given their price !
They have flat fronts, rather than the curved glass of the original sealed beams.

thanks Jonners and Ian, I think I have found some 5 3/4" conversions, from a mini parts seller on ebay. Just seen the rimmers price for the conversion kit, factor in postage and the cost is a tad high, so local is good. Curved fronts too.

thanks for the tip about the centrifugal advance springs jonners. I'll get the timing light out and have a go one of these nights

stu

Might be worth a double check, minis have 7" headlights.

thanks Tin, just noticed he's also selling 7" lights as well, but the 4 i've picked up are 5 3/4" so all good.

stu

from the to do list:

source and fit halogens

Recently I bought a set of halogen conversions off ebay having looked around for ages.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 2121wt_756

(and the sister set)

Apart from them being a flat lens instead of the rounded look of the old ones (and the very poor quality) I attempted to fit them.

I've just found out that the aiming rings, the rings with the three rectangular cutouts that the sealed beam headlamps fit into are different from the inner to the outer. Not a lot, but enough that the inner spot lights won't fit into the outer rings and sit snugly. Unless I'm losing my marbles that is ! When I restored the sprint, I swapped around these ring fittings from a 2500 hulk quite oblivious to this. Fortunately I lucked it in and managed to get the right rings on the right lights.

can someone confirm that these fittings are supposed to be different, by about 5 degrees on the placement of the lugs on the headlights ? I've just done a hands on test with the headlights from the sprint project and can't get them around the wrong way, so I'm confident that I'm not just making a goose of myself publicly.

Spent the obligatory 5 hours sorting the new wiring, running new heavy duty wires from two new fuses, fitting two relays to the car, opening up the existing loom and upgrading the wires to the headlights, including the earth returns, all was looking good. All tested and working ticketty-boo.




Fitted the offside outer and it went in nicely. When I came to fit up the offside inner (single beam, spot) I noticed that it wouldn't secure. After fitting the chromed retainer, it flopped around. A lot of time spent inspecting the three lugs that locate it, checking they were in the right position, right depth etc and there is still 3mm or so flop, in and out, which means the headlight will rattle around. The lugs all line up. When I replaced the light with the original spot, it does the same thing, and I recalled when I fitted it, there was significant free play.

As well as the lug spacing, is there anything else that is special about the rings ? is there a trick to getting the headlight to sit flush and be secured by the chrome retainer ?

Having done all of this, I'll probably go back to the original lights, being better for the two relays (I had a high beam relay fitted before) and it looks better. The search for domed halogen conversions continues. I'll try and avoid driving at night I think.


the flat glass just doesn't feel right !


change oil and fit new spin on oil filter conversion kit

fail. The spin on filter doesn't seem to fit. I'm following the instructions, but the adapter bolt isn't long enough and I can't get it to work. I'm obviously doing something wrong. I'm using the engine from the sprint project as a test bed to get it to fit.

polish those wheels.
at least some progress here !


check for fuel flow and change fuel filter
fuel filter was filthy, replaced it, next job will be out with the petrol tank and inspect it for internal rust (again) then probably invest in a decent internal treatment for it.


put the steering wheel on square (aligned with straight ahead position !)
tried, but failed by about 5 degrees. Do it again !

use the EGO sensor and kit I made to check mixture of engine
remarkably good fun. Had it all up and running, only to run into engine running problems, probably related to fuel filter. I'll give it a go when the car is back on the road.

wait until it is dark and check dynamic timing.
not done yet, running issues and car on blocks is slowing me up. I've ordered some replacement distributor springs, at Jonners suggestion.

in other news, replaced the caliper seals on the nearside front brake after detecting a leak. Had to separate the calipers to give them a good clean. I'm not that confident about the condition of the pistons (corrosion) but they are back in and bled.

got the new radio wired in but I'm holding off on fitting it up trying to decide whether I refit the parcel shelf that I made from plywood or pinch the parcel shelf from the 1850 donor. The plywood job is better quality and reasonably well made, but the original is, well, original !




stu

I too have encountered the peculiar headlamp lug spacing. This was after I used the headlamp fittings from an
Austin Princess (which I think was not sold in Australia. It was the 1800/2200 replacement.).

To my car I fitted an oil filter conversion. It was an obvious straightforward fit, so can't offer any advice. Sorry.


You should really have a cover over the battery's live terminal. These are normally incorporated with the loom on
Triumphs?


New caliper pistons are available but I, if I may, suggest instead that fitting uprated brakes (such as Sprintparts'
conversion) is really the way to go, long term.


I am interested to see how you get on trying to sort your engine's pinking problem. To be honest, I fear that your
compression ratio (following head skims) is too high for the petrol's octane rating.
(It is with interest that I note that thicker head gaskets made to the same specification as the original Payen are
available for Stags.) Hopefully Jonners' distributor springs suggestion cures the problem.



All the best,

straylight wrote:from the to do list:


the flat glass just doesn't feel right !

I agree Stu, that just looks plain weird mate!

I too have encountered the peculiar headlamp lug spacing. This was after I used the headlamp fittings from an
Austin Princess (which I think was not sold in Australia. It was the 1800/2200 replacement.).

ah good, It isn't just me then

You should really have a cover over the battery's live terminal. These are normally incorporated with the loom on
Triumphs?

thanks Ian, yes there is one, it is just out of picture and had slid down the cable. That said, it is a bit tatty.

New caliper pistons are available but I, if I may, suggest instead that fitting uprated brakes (such as Sprintparts'
conversion) is really the way to go, long term.

good suggestion and if I haven't cured the leak, then I'll go that way. Mark suggested it way back, the cost of replacement parts is apparently more than the cost of the vented disk upgrade.

I'll get some pics of the oil filter shemozzle up shortly. The old filter housing is back on and I'll now wait until the next oil change, in the meantime working on the "spare" engine.

Alan, I cant bear looking at the new lights, they look so rubbish.

thanks for the help guys, still stuck on the headlight rattling around between the aiming ring and the chrome retainer.

stu

it has been a while since an update, so here is where we are up to with the sprint.

The last set of photos were taken back in June on a car club trip to nearby Apsley to celebrate their inaugural show day. Lots of tractors, stationary engines and a few nice cars. We went along with a friend driving his Oakland.


Thistle (the Oakland driver) took a detour down a gravel road, his old Oakland with the big wheels handled the track at quite some speed




back on the tarmac, son hanging out of the window for some action photos


tractor line up. The Apsley mob have quite a few tractors they are restoring, some interesting exhibits.


the stationary engine crowd


this marvelous old 1930 fiat 514, which has been restored.


and the faithful sprint


The sprint is getting driven about once a month, usually to take the kids to sport.

I did score a sprint engine off ebay ($150) and collected it a month or two ago. Cheap enough engine but I spent a bit more buying all of the parts he had stocked up on. It was supposed to go into his racing TR7, but he opted for the V8 conversion.




thus he was left with the sprint engine. It was in pieces which made transportation a bit easier and it is now sitting on my bench while I ponder whether to repair it fully. I bought all of the new gubbins except the sprockets, Hi-torq starter and a few other bits (too expensive). Unfortunately it came without conrods or BE bearing caps, but luckily sprintparts had some on ebay and I snagged those. There are some cracks in the head so I am dubious about it so I've just bought another head ($50) from WA which is apparently good.

the only work on the car has been to repair the leaking front disc brake seal and then do an emergency repair on the caliper when it almost came off. Driving along and slowing down to collect my daughter from a nearby farm, a loud bang followed by the familiar rattle of a steel object underneath the car. Braked slowly and the front right wheel locked up. Turns out a brake caliper bolt had fallen off and the caliper jammed itself when brakes were applied. I couldn't find the bolt but the local farmer found a replacement in his shed. Since I was the last person to work on the caliper, I think I just plain forgot to tighten the two bolts. Mea culpa.

The oil pressure gauge is almost fitted, now I have found the old T-piece so I can keep the oil warning light. It is an electric one, so no oil lines winding their way through the bulkhead.

The stereo is now fitted and finished off.

The lights are now wired through relays but I left off the Halogen conversion kit. Just too ugly.

Next work is aiming the blasted headlights so I can drive at night

still as happy as a lark with her, looking forward to summer and some more driving, but home renovations (reroofed the house) have taken priority. I should be starting on the second sprint in anger in the next few months as well.

stu