Newbie, I know, the car deserved better.

[Jon Tilson]

When you pay so much for something you would expect the studs to be the right length, especially since we
have been complaining about this for YEARS!!!!

Bunch of hammer chewers...


Jonners

[Mad Mart]

When you pay so much for something you would expect the studs to be the right length, especially since we
have been complaining about this for YEARS!!!!

Bunch of hammer chewers...


Jonners

When you join our club, then you can complain Jonners.

[Mahesh]

Sorted out the throttle disc problem, yes I made a stupid mistake and did not undo the throttle adjustment screws.

Loosened throttle screws up, slackenend the disc screws, all perfectly aligned and tightenend up, disc screws splayed.

Unfortunately my metal works contact decided to quadruple the price on reaming throttle spindle bushes when he found out it was
for a set of carburettors, £80 for the two is over the top, especially as the discs are sitting snug.

Carb mounts are fitted in the car now, just have to finish with the carbs themselves, final checks and tightening up.

20160310_083324.jpg (267.65 KiB) Viewed 1167 times

[Jon Tilson]

With all those bling bits it looks great. Love the shiney pipes and I'm even warming to your lurid
hoses, but I'm surprised that with such high standards you couldnt find a tin of gold engine lacquer
from somewhere....

Do it before the carbs are on and you can still poke a small brush in there....
You know we all want you to....



Jonners

[Mahesh]

Cant do much at the moment, Thursday evening flu like symptoms emerged,
being asthmatic this situation is mortally exaggerated.

Would have gone hospital by now, but have had to go to work in between on and off, as there is no one
else for certain jobs.

Hospitals and asthma probs they like to keep you for two weeks, and get upset if you
leave earlier, not an option until the end of today, when two other members of staff return to work.

[James467]

Hope you're feeling better Mahesh.

Unfortunately my metal works contact decided to quadruple the price on reaming throttle spindle bushes when he found out it was
for a set of carburettors, £80 for the two is over the top, especially as the discs are sitting snug.

I think thats pretty reasonable, Burlen charged me £120 inc postage.

[Mahesh]

Thanks James,

May be reasonable, but to change the quote after a detailed explanation is no excuse.

Carbs are in the car ready to be setup, but not possible in this condition, can't even leave the
front door without wheezing and collapsing, few more days and then all will be over.

[James467]

but to change the quote after a detailed explanation is no excuse.

Thats is true!

Just look after yourself, the car can wait.

[Mahesh]

Back to work today, can't put up being at home unable to move around.

Done some final checks on the carbs this morning and managed a rough start
on choke, with a few tweaks the car is now idling at 1000 rpm once warmed up.

Still got limits as to how much I can stand around (lungs still flooded) but at
least the car starts.

Run-on after switch of has reared its head, also the idle is a bit like the tide,
same for the choke, a bit of tweaking needed.

[Jon Tilson]

My experience of Sprints idle speed is a bit mixed. My own car doesnt like much below 900 and does still run
on a tad - the different cam and lightened flywheel being the main reason.
Running on sometimes stops with the plugs cleaned of the odd glow plug carbon nib on the rim...Its also done about 60k
miles since the head was last off, which may have something to do with it.

In standard form a Sprint will run down to 800 rpm and this should cure the running on. Most standard cars
will not run on with clean plugs. Some still will even then....probably need a decoke.

Autos are rare but the best and will go down to 600 rpm in warm weather. I suspect the added inertia of the t/c
helps keep them smooth enough.

Jonners

[Mahesh]

Done some more tweaking (meddling) today,

Using the piston lift pins (literally hammered them loose when I cleaned up the carbs) I set the jet mixtures,
not ideal but better than it was.

Then the fuel light came on, and this is a big no no, as I doubt my tank sends fuel near the end, so pack up and off
to the petrol station. What a rough drive that was, wanted to stall from 1st gear and then a lack of power, but smooth
once moving.

Filled up I got the car back to the works yard, and got the colortune out. Idle speed was at 1000rpm as the fluctuations were
so much any lower and it would stall.

Again spark plugs are fouled with oil, but adjusted the mixture and set the idle screws and now I have a steady 800 rpm.
Pushed the accelerator down and 6000rpm was achieved with an abrut letting go which resulted in the rpm going down to 500rpm and
then picking backup to 800rpm. (6000rpm, first time in a long long time).

Still does not feel correct, however a road test will help iron out minor adjustments, not to mention new breather pipes, they seem to
be working, but when you can remove them with only finger weight, they need to be changed, also I can see cracks in them along the
bends. Car stalls immediately if one is removed,

Have not adjusted the fast idle yet, will have to have a look at in the morning.

20160322_080103.jpg (334.4 KiB) Viewed 948 times

[Mad Mart]

Have you balanced the carbs Mahesh? Some people can balance them using the 'bit of tube method' and listening at each carb. I don't get on with that so I use one of these:-

[Mahesh]

Yep, exactly the same one I still have on loan from Alex spitfire.

I still have to do the mixtures again, this time with two colortunes, as soon as I find the other one.

[Jon Tilson]

Have you read the tuning guide on the wiki?

There really isnt too much to getting the idle mix right. Do it one carb at a time at 1000 rpm. The piston lift part
is really critical. It must be 1/32 inch or mm equivalent. That amounts to the faintest touch. Any more and you dont
learn a thing.....

Also the method is a bit flawed on a Sprint anyway as the long inlet tract masks the piston rising effects, so the manual says glibly to adjust the mixture for the "smoothest idle with consistent firing" or somesuch.

I'm not a fan of colorwottsits on Sprints either. The tubes make it difficult to use and the plastic bits are prone to melting.
Much of what Gunson make is cheap tat with a very short service life. The ideas are sound, but the execution lacking.

You can even just pull the jet up and down with the choke mechanism or by hand rather that endlessly twiddling the nuts and butchering your thumbprints. That can often tell you if you're way off on the basic setting. 12 flats down is a start point only but its also greatly affected by the float chamber fuel level.

Good quality bypass tubes are also a given as is the correct oil level in the dampers. Either of those will throw any attempt to tune out of the window as will any other manifold air leak.

Jonners

[Mahesh]

I have read the guide, thanks,

but I'm also still in the learning phase, and can see many attempts of fun ahead.

Nearly forgot,

In the cleaning process I did come across my old (twenty year old) mistake, and it
was one of the fast idle nuts constantly pushing against the choke cam, amazing how
three garages that have looked at the car since have never picked up on it.

Agree on the Gunson quality, you can smell the melt, may put a silicone tubing over the
extension, if it lasts a few more days, it will have done it's job.