RUK - Project Recommission 1972 'Dolomite' Auto

[James467]

I had a thought, NWLs engine needs building. I didn't want to build it and leave it laying around for ages once built, also once the car is back on the road it wont be doing a lot of mileage so I could build the engine up and fit it to RUK with the gearbox and back axle to run them all in whilst I sort all the oil leaks and gearbox out on the original engine.

Now before you go saying oh my god, thats sacrelidge blah blah! You probably aren't familiar with NWL so read my thread here

You will then realise how much NWL means to me and that this would NOT be a permanent swap.

But it would give me the opportunity to iron any bugs out on NWLs engine, I have the TJ kit so wouldn't need the brake valve on the back and of course the mod would be declared to my insurers.

As far as I can see the only thing I would need to do is to get some bigger wheelnuts as my Sprint is a later car using the larger studs, I have everything else including an exhaust.

[tinweevil]

Oh my dog! Sacrilege blah bl...

Oh wait, hang on.

Sound downright sensible to me.

[Mahesh]

It sounds like RUK is your new mistress

[Carledo]

Want to part with the horrible MGF seats and homemade runners James? I could do with seats that tilt in the Carledo!

Steve

[Carledo]

I had a thought, NWLs engine needs building. I didn't want to build it and leave it laying around for ages once built, also once the car is back on the road it wont be doing a lot of mileage so I could build the engine up and fit it to RUK with the gearbox and back axle to run them all in whilst I sort all the oil leaks and gearbox out on the original engine.

Now before you go saying oh my god, thats sacrelidge blah blah! You probably aren't familiar with NWL so read my thread here

You will then realise how much NWL means to me and that this would NOT be a permanent swap.

But it would give me the opportunity to iron any bugs out on NWLs engine, I have the TJ kit so wouldn't need the brake valve on the back and of course the mod would be declared to my insurers.

As far as I can see the only thing I would need to do is to get some bigger wheelnuts as my Sprint is a later car using the larger studs, I have everything else including an exhaust.

It's not a bad theory, but will involve swapping a load of other bits to do the manual conversion, subframe, prop, tunnel, pedals, clutch hydraulics etc. If swapping in the Sprint axle is planned too, why not swap in the Sprint front hubs and use Sprint wheels and nuts? Or, if you like I could lend you some 7/16 UNF steel tapered nuts.

Steve

[James467]

Agree with the Sprint swap so I have another plan which involves DTR (as its already a manual) as RUK may be going to a new home.

[James467]

RUK continues to be a daily driver and faultlessly at that. It hasn't used any water or oil whilst running around the town back and forth to school, supermarkets, my parents etc... The kids love riding in it and it's just such an easy little car to drive.

I have temporarily fitted the larger steering wheel from DTR to it, just because I prefer the feel of the larger wheel to be honest.

The big news is that RUK is potentially going to a new home, and as part of the sale I need to do a few bits, simply because I wouldn't let the car go without doing them.

The water pump had a weep, that seems to have stopped but on motorway runs it does leak oil from the slot, so just as a belt and braces approach I have a brand new water pump to fit. This is the one with the ceramic ring fitted under the impeller. As well as replacing the water pump I'll be replacing it's bush as well.





The other thing that happens on long runs when it gets nice and warm is that the rear crankshaft oil seal leaks badly so I have one of these to fit as well. I will check the spring tension on this to ensure that it is correct.



As the engine has to come out, I also have the necessary bottom end gaskets so I can whip the sump off and give it a clean out and get an oil and filter change.

I have sorted the auto box and correctly adjusted the brake bands and it now shifts and runs better than ever.

I also have a set of rear wheel bearings to fit.

[yorkshire_spam]

[James467]

So, here we go with the rear crankshaft oil seal replacement.

Engine out, I wont go into that, it's not difficult and been done hundreds of times on here!

Only difference is that I left the auto box in, easy to do, it should be easy going back in as well.





The inside of the bellhousing was pretty grotty so I gave it a good clean as well as the engine itself.





Stripped everything off and gave it all a good clean



Cleaned out the inside of the sump...



Cleaned the outside of the sump!



Now you know me, I cant leave it like that so I'll give it a coat of paint before it goes back on!

Pressed in a new oil seal.



Fitted back onto the engine...



Next job is to get the engine into the stand now and into the warmth of the workshop so I can get the sump back on and the water pump done this evening.

I'll take some photos of the internals when it's upside down.

[GTS290N]

Hi James - was the sump worth cleaning out? What was the state of the oil pick-up? Never done mine, been wondering if it's a good idea....

[James467]

Hi James - was the sump worth cleaning out? What was the state of the oil pick-up? Never done mine, been wondering if it's a good idea....

There was a small amount of sludge in the bottom, no metal particulates though and the level was nowhere near the pickup. Given that it was off I think that it was a good idea to clean it out.

Oil pickup is just dirty to be honest, clear though. I'll take some pics when it's upside down. I am tempted to take it off and give it a wash through the parts washer just to clean it.

[James467]

It's time for a 'RUK' update everyone!!!

I left you last time having pulled the engine out and cleaned everything up, quite a lot has happened since then.....

I haven't been able to make my 'Jeroen' engine stand adaptor due to the amount I have going on at the moment so I had to make do with mounting the engine in the stand the traditional way. This meant doing the crankshaft oil seal first. Not difficult really, new seal on, new gasket and some gasket seal just to be sure.



Then it was back plate on, drive plate on and into the warmth of the workshop to do everything else.



First job was to refit the sump and have a good look at the bottom end. Everything looked fine, I checked the end-float and that was all ok (checked on the crank pulley and it was the same just didn't photo it!), strainer and pickup looked good so I refitted the sump.











So it was engine over and onto the water pump...

Inlet off and puller hook tool on.





Pump came out without any difficulties but left the cage in as usual.







So the blind puller came out and I pulled out the cage and bearing/bush







Gave everything a good clean up.



Installed new bush/bearing, the oil is there to soak in and ensure that during initial startup the bearing is not dry.



Installed new pump and cage





Then the water pump cover



Which then came off after a conversation with Jeroen about different pump impellers! Once we had established that it was fine it went back on again and I treated myself to a G&T!!

Then it was a simple case of putting the inlet manifold back on with new gaskets and refit the distributor.







Just needed to refit the engine onto the car.

[James467]

I refilled the converter and fitted it to the gearbox.



Then well just dropped the engine in!



I did raise the gearbox up to clear the steering rack then using the angle sling thingy that I have I was able to adjust the angle of the engine and they both just slotted together, so I fitted the top and bottom bellhousing bolts and dropped it onto its engine mounts.





Then bolted the bellhousing up, bolted the torque convertor to the drive plate, torqued everything up, refit the exhaust, rad, electrics cooling system etc....



Then went for a startup....

Turned the key.... nothing

Checked it was in park, then checked the connections to the inhibitor.

Turned the key.... nothing

Checked the battery cables

10 minutes later checked the connection to the starter.... er where was the starter. Whoops forgot to refit it!



Look my only excuse was that it was blooming cold!

Anyway once I actually got the starter in it fired up fine, I ran it up for 3 minutes without the thermostat filler cap on to remove any air from the cooling system then ran it up hot. Checked oil levels, leaks etc... checked the box engaged fine put the bonnet back on tidied up and went and had a cup of tea!



All I need to do now is to give her a tune up and adjust the timing etc...

But the next job is to replace the rear wheel bearings.

[Jon Tilson]

I admire the fact you admit on a public forum full of wags that you tried to start it with no starter....

Before I read that I was guessing issues with the box loom connector, which often gets me on a first start.

Lol.

Boy was that an oily water pump. I have NEVER seen one with such a bad oil leak. Wonder why? Was there any evidence of crank pressure or blocked breathers? I'd run it with oil cap off and see if you can feel it, or it may well come back....

Anyway quality work as usual....

Jonners

[James467]

Boy was that an oily water pump. I have NEVER seen one with such a bad oil leak. Wonder why? Was there any evidence of crank pressure or blocked breathers? I'd run it with oil cap off and see if you can feel it, or it may well come back....

Thanks Jonners, will do that when it's all back together.

Before I bleed the brakes I pulled both the halfshafts out to replace the bearings.

Wheel off, drum off and puller on...



This is the puller you need, from Ian Gittings on eBay...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPIT ... 2749.l2649

If it wont go tighten the bolt with a breaker bar then hit it with a hammer it will pop off. Oh and be prepared for a bang!

Then you can unbolt the backplate, leave the brake gubbins on, you only need to disconnect the line and handbrake.



Then you can use a slide hammer to pull the shaft out, sorry forgot to photo that bit.







The one with the red tape is the drivers side.

Click on the photo to view the video, the bearings are completely shot, I'll just replace them.