The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Put the ms3 blue coil in today, no joy,
double checked the magnetic disc and
rotor fitment, still no.

Put the original contact set in, car started
so quick.

Will check the timing in the morning, but
should I leave the new coil in, or revert
back to the lucas sport?

Also does anybody know how to test
the magnetronic module outside of the
car ?, I could set up a test rig with the old
coil.

If there is no spark from the coil when cranking the engine, switch on the ignition and check for 12
Volts on RED supply wire for the module.

Check the terminals on the RED and BLACK wires to verify that they are crimped properly and
attached to the correct terminals.

With the ignition switched off remove the distributor cap and check the air gap between the
MAGNETRONIC MODULE and disc. The gap should be approximately 1.5mm (.060”) and must
be between 0.75 mm (.030”) and 2.55 mm (.100”).

If this is all correct then check the operation of the module.

CHECKING MODULE OPERATION

With THE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL AND THE HAND BRAKE SET.
Disconnect tachometer sense lead from ignition coil if applicable.
1. Set a voltmeter on a DC volts range between 15 and 60 volts.
2. Connect the positive meter lead to the minus (-) ignition coil primary terminal.
3. Connect the negative meter lead 10 engine ground.
4. Crank engine.

If the needle jumps back and forth between approximately 1 Volt and 13 Volts the ignition system
is working properly and the problem is likely be elsewhere in the spark distribution system (coil,
cap, leads, rotor, etc).

If the needle stays at about 13 volts either the RED or BLACK wire is not making connection to the
coil primary terminals.

If the needle stays at about 1 volt, there may be an excessive air gap [greater than 3.2mm (.125”)]
between the magnetic trigger disc and the ignition module preventing it from switching OR the
ignition module has been damaged by connecting the RED and BLACK wires to the wrong
terminals on the ignition coil.

Thanks, have done that, it is the module which has failed, I should not have expected more from Ebay,
but have to move on to the next stage, may order another module or differenct leccy option, but not today.

If it wasn't so cold in the morning I would have started on the spark plug tubes, instead had to be
content with removing the fusebox and cleaning it up.

Sweet...diet coke does a great job on those...

Jonners

...and the cheaper, the better. Get some white grease on the terminals to keep the corrosion at bay. Alternatively, you could fit an MGB fusebox like I did. You'll still need to get some white grease on the terminals.

Thanks, I'll make sure to spray some grease on there, but first have to cleanup the connectors on the leads (or change).

Thanks, have done that, it is the module which has failed, I should not have expected more from Ebay,

Well at least you're protected by the 'eBay Buyer Guarantee'...

Get one from Burton, they are the cheapest

Hmmm, I may send the seller an email, usually I just bin faulty bits (up to a price)

However, on checking the unit, it should be easier on the workbench,

12v + to red lead,
12v - to body,

meter - to body,
meter + to black lead,

rotating the magnet over in the correct orientation and way should give a voltage reading.

Alternatively I may just rig up the coil and test with a finger in the coil,
(finger has been tested up to 4000rpm on a 2.0L Sierra in 1991, still works).

Had a few minutes after work,
So made a start on the spark plug tube replacement,
That is not attached, is that right ?

Mahesh wrote:Had a few minutes after work,

2016-04-01 19.42.47.jpg

So made a start on the spark plug tube replacement,

2016-04-01 19.43.12.jpg

That is not attached, is that right ?

2016-04-01 19.51.41.jpg

Perfectly correct like that, the bolt is only attached to the plate when removing the cylinder head.

Steve

Thanks Steve,

I was more worried in case a nut had fallen down or
been left out, never taken the cover off a Sprint before.

Fitted the spark plug tubes this morning, and tightened up for now, also reconnected
the fuse box.

I may have made a mistake, but can rectify if need be,

The original gasket under the cover seemed to be a thick plastic variety, and the
replacement I had was a thin paper job. So I applied some hylomar and did not
disturb the original.

Hopefully will not leak, but only a few test drives will tell.

Reset the timing to 10 this morning, but the timing light was
not emitting unless a bit of revs applied.

May need a new contact set, changed the HT leads to the magnecor ones, but before I could even tidy up the leads, it started to rain.

Will double check the timing in the morning.

Checked the timing this morning, at it is still on 10, but the timing light is very bright and constant,
HT leads have made a difference.

New problem, flat rear tyre, will have to inspect once I pull the car out of the corner, in the meantime
connected a tyre inflator and started to fill up. After 5 minutes noticed the revs were dropping, and went
down to about 200 rpm, (did not think it would idle that low) and the voltage was dropping. No other
items switched on, albeit the interior courtesy light (led).

Looking at the diagram there isn't much in the whole electrial system, and I can only assume that its
a dodgy connection or earth.

The battery is new (larger than normal) alternator new 80A, (not sure about low rpm voltage though), battery
leads are new, (but in the process of changing) have to check the alternator plug and immediate
cabling.

In normal use probably wont matter, but whereas the car was idling fine for over 30 minutes, a single item
added shouldn't really be such a big drain.

If your car still has waxtstats and you let it idle for a prolonged period with the bonnet closed, heat build up will lean out
the mixture and drop the idle speed and eventually cause a stall.

Nothing to do with alternator load at all....

Jonners