The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

So continuing the wheel bearing replacement

Pressed the old bearings off the shafts, took about 4 tons of pressure to make it move.





Shaft looks good with no damage



Pressed the new bearings onto the shaft to the specifications in the workshop manual. What happens is that when you tighten the hub up it draws the shaft through the bearing and ensures that it is positioned in exactly the right place to avoid extra load on the drum. Thanks Jeroen for explaining that!





New oil seals in the axle



New bearing packed with grease



Install shaft in axle. You'll have to turn it to make it engage in the diff but you won't need a hammer to get it in. If it won't go pull it out turn it and push it back in.



New oil seal and gasket on bearing retaining plates





Install brake back plate, don't forget the oil catcher. Torque nuts and bolts progessively to 18ft lbs.



Install hub onto halfshaft make sure it engages the key.



Torque hub bolt to 85ft lbs.



Done, just need to reconnect and adjust/bleed the brakes.

Hi James, just as a matter of interest how do you stop the hub rotating when you use that big puller please ?
Thanks,
Tony.

MIG Wielder wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 2:29 pm Hi James, just as a matter of interest how do you stop the hub rotating when you use that big puller please ?
Thanks,
Tony.

A very big lever bar! All I do is get the bolt nice and tight with a breaker bar, then hit the head of the bolt with a large hammer (whilst standing to one side!) If you have enough tension then the shock will break the taper and the hub will pop off.

MIG Wielder wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 2:29 pm Hi James, just as a matter of interest how do you stop the hub rotating when you use that big puller please ?

A stilson and a trolley jack handle works:

That's a better idea!

Leverage the synergies, going forward.

James467 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 16, 2017 4:28 pm That's a better idea!

I have a confession to make.... I'm a bad mechanic with dangerous habits. I use the air impact gun on mine and just hold the hub to stop it spinning (I do wear big thick gloves though)

yorkshire_spam wrote: ↑Sun Dec 17, 2017 12:30 pm I have a confession to make.... I'm a bad mechanic with dangerous habits. I use the air impact gun on mine and just hold the hub to stop it spinning (I do wear big thick gloves though)

I've got a friend who uses a windy gun on coil spring compressors. Always makes me a little nervous..

geeksteve wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2017 1:06 pm

yorkshire_spam wrote: ↑Sun Dec 17, 2017 12:30 pm I have a confession to make.... I'm a bad mechanic with dangerous habits. I use the air impact gun on mine and just hold the hub to stop it spinning (I do wear big thick gloves though)

I've got a friend who uses a windy gun on coil spring compressors. Always makes me a little nervous..

I've got a friend like that, a pro who should know better! He USED to use a windy gun on MY spring compressors, till he nearly lost an arm doing it, mainly from not being bothered to change to the right cups, rather than just use of the airgun itself, it must be said.

Most mechanics are lazy and take dangerous shortcuts on occasion, it goes with the job! These days, I try not to, which is probably why I have survived mostly unscarred from 45 years in the trade, but I was young and indestructible once! The knack with all these potentially damaging procedures is to stay out of the potential flightpath of heavy metal bits!

Steve

You lot are crazy!

It scared me enough when it popped off after being hit with a hammer, it didn't even go that far, erm... about 10cm!

Spring compressors scare the crap out of me the most, I have a hydraulic one and I hate using it!

James467 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 19, 2017 5:56 pm You lot are crazy!

We have Dolomites! Your point is???????

In extreme cases, i've seen pullers like that go 20 feet!

Steve

Yes this is true, it's a mental condition and highly contagious!

Back to RUK, I just couldn't get the original to seal around the back bolt so worried that the stat housing may have a hairline crack in that area I swapped it for DTR's which is the same, a new gasket, some Loctite 5660 and we are weep free. Thanks to Ian who is sending me a replacement to go back on DTR.



I have also bled the brakes and adjusted the front OS wheel bearing. I still cannot get over the difference that the rear wheel bearings have made, she cruises at an indicated 70 down the M3 beautifully.

The other thing to mention is that a I had the engine out with the converter I took the time to drain the oil from the box and converter and fill it with fresh top quality AQF Mineral fluid. Now the box behaves so much better and so much more predictably. I need to drain a tiny bit off as I overfilled it slightly when topping up (haven't driven it in fear of blowing any seals!). So sorry Dave (Toledo Man) but I think that Car Plan Fluid that you use is not good at all.

Hi James, Its probably worth hanging on to the old housing . If it does have a crack in it it can probably be Lumiwelded. I've done this before on a couple of components.
Tony.

She made the journey back to her new home in good time and without hitch (230 miles, about 4 hours)



She's marked her territory in the garage with a small coolant leak from the T piece in the bottom hose, so I'll nip that up when I have 5 minutes and top up the coolant.

Garage? You're spoiling her already!

Shes gone to a good home!

yorkshire_spam wrote: She made the journey back to her new home in good time and without hitch (230 miles, about 4 hours)

She's marked her territory in the garage with a small coolant leak from the T piece in the bottom hose, so I'll nip that up when I have 5 minutes and top up the coolant.

Yes, I do tend to be a bit light fingered when it comes to jubilee clips on coolant hoses. I just worry about damaging the hose or the clip!