The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hello again folks:):):)
I was playing with water, natriumbikarbonat tonight. 12vdc battery from a ups.

That looks like an interesting process. As I understand its a solution of sodium bicarbonate in water ? What concentration of powder do you use please ? Which terminal is the anode (+) and which is the cathode(-) ? How much current does it take and how long does it take to remove all the rust off ,say , a lower suspension arm ? Do you get any gases released during the process which means it has to be done outside ?
I'm full of questions today !
Thanks very much,
Tony.

MIG Wielder wrote:That looks like an interesting process. As I understand its a solution of sodium bicarbonate in water ? What concentration of powder do you use please ? Which terminal is the anode (+) and which is the cathode(-) ? How much current does it take and how long does it take to remove all the rust off ,say , a lower suspension arm ? Do you get any gases released during the process which means it has to be done outside ?
I'm full of questions today !
Thanks very much,
Tony.

Yes, it is sodium bicarbonate in water. In this test, (it is my first time testing it), i used 200g of sodium bicarbonate in 50 liter water. IMPORTANT!!!!!! Use the NEGATIVE pole connected to the parts that you want to clean.
I used a 12 battery (like the one you use in your car) and with the charger connected.
The 4 parts shown on the pic, i left in the water for about 2,5-3 hour, next time 4 hour

CHEERS

This was fun .............. I'm surprised at how good electrolysis works ...... threaded areas are also like new.
I restore 2 complete front suspension, so I use the best part of the car, and the rest in reserve.
Also got hold of a spare sprint engine, original engine is overhauled to the original standard, the other will be a race engine.

Thank you for all the useful info; on this . Much appreciated. I have just tried this out on a small scale with sodium carbonate - ( its all we could find ) -about 50 grams in 3 litres of warm water in a plastic bucket with a 12V car battery float charged from a battery charger. I used a tin can as the anode (+) and an old rusty Dolomite handbrake lever as the cathode. A couple of things to note: the current consumption is about 2.2 A and I put a 10A fuse in series just for safety. The solution of the carbonate does get quite warm after 2 hours. It is necessary to stir the solution around from time to time as the current drops off.
After 2 hours the metal comes out looking really nice and clean.
A very worthwhile process.
Thank you for the tip,
Tony.

A little something every day....
Now the welding on the front done, only some minor welding left.
Also mounted the accuspark kit-5 ignition to my lucas 44D4 dizzy.

...just read all 5 pages of this thread with about 6 cups of tea ( ..insomnia - its a curse! )

...anymore progress?

....altho, in the UK, we have a mild amount of snow - and it freezes everything and everyone -
I just bet its colder where you are...?

.......you must have a VERY large heater in your garage...????

SandglowISnice! wrote:...just read all 5 pages of this thread with about 6 cups of tea ( ..insomnia - its a curse! )

...anymore progress?

....altho, in the UK, we have a mild amount of snow - and it freezes everything and everyone -
I just bet its colder where you are...?

.......you must have a VERY large heater in your garage...????

oh yes ....... cold as hell here in Norway, about -10 degrees celcius.
In the garage, however, never below 15 degrees. No need for BIG heater, garage is fully insulated .
Progress?, Trying to do a little every day, but do not hurry. This car will all be done properly, and it costs money and takes time, as we all know it does with old cars Have bought an ultrasonic cleaner that is fun to play with
This is the first triumph I own, which has 4 wheels. Disassembled carefully, restoring parts gradually, and packs away well.
Now the body is completely empty, the next to be done is to create a tripod with wheels, so that it is possible to move it to the painting in the spring / summer. (depends a little on the money available).
Photos coming

...Nice one Keep the pics coming...

oppps I missed something here...

Is that a definitive on a particular leccy ignition module that works with the Sprint oem cap and rotor?

The pics dont look like a sprint rotor arm and the 45 D type, which that looks like, doesnt work with the sprint cap....

Jonners

Jon Tilson wrote:oppps I missed something here...

Is that a definitive on a particular leccy ignition module that works with the Sprint oem cap and rotor?

The pics dont look like a sprint rotor arm and the 45 D type, which that looks like, doesnt work with the sprint cap....

Jonners

Thanks for the replay:):)
I understand you've done your homework, and you are hereby passing triumph dolomite exam....

I had to cut off the top of the shaft by 1-2 mm. This to get the rotor from Lucas 45D4 far enough down, so sprint cap should fit. The oem sprint rotor is too big, won`t fit.

Lucas part number 54422803....
MY NEW TOY...

I'm sure there is a rotor arm similar to that, that will fit straight on. I think it was from a Lotus something or other (Elan?). I think it was Carl who told me that a few years ago.

Mad Mart wrote:I'm sure there is a rotor arm similar to that, that will fit straight on. I think it was from a Lotus something or other (Elan?). I think it was Carl who told me that a few years ago.

I think the lotus engine (cortina,elan,europa) use the 45D4 dizzy AND rotor.
The only different on the "lotus" dizzy, it dont have any vacuum.....
I used to have a lot of cortina in the past, when twin weber fitted, i have to use the "lotus" cap because of the side exit.., and block the vacuum ...... I dont think the lotus got a different rotor...but i am not sure I know SOME lotus used Lucas 54412165, but i think this is just because of the rev-limit.

Mad Mart : What do you use in your trackday sprint??

Mad Mart : What do you use in your trackday sprint??

I don't, I have a Megajolt setup.

I recently used your electrolysis rust removal on a pair of Sierra calipers I got from a scrapyard for my TJ conversion. I have a variable power supply so I set it at 12V and 2.2A and left it over night - the calipers were really rusty when I got them! Rather than using bicarbonate of soda I employed washing soda (more concentrated and cheaper) - it worked a treat so many thanks for passing this technique on. Good luck with the resto I really enjoy the thread and the other restos on here a really interesting and good way of learning things!

Dave

P.S Note that the gas that comes off is Hydrogen so no smoking while the cleaning is in progress!