The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Excellent news....

That has to be the solution....excess pressure defeating the seal. Result....

Should be a simple fix to whip off the stat cove and unblock the small hole....it is only about 1/8 inch diameter IIRC.

Jonners

Removed the thermosat cover this morning, and yep the outlet for the expansion tank is blocked.

Upon further investigation the cause is some rust particles conducting an experiment to replicate
the process of sedimentary rock. They must have started decades ago and were very reluctant to
relocate, but after some agressive persuasion, and the promise of more space,
they have moved, to continuie their experiments in London's sewer system, where no doubt they will
be joined by much other detritus and like minded debris.

The cover will go back on tomorrow morning, weighing a few grams less, (every little helps

In future you can use my method to fill the last few cc's....

Filler top back on and fill expansion bottle above inlet ...squeeze bottom hose to expel air in to expansion tank and suck coolant back.

If you had tried this you would have detected the blockage...one for the common knowledge base.

Jonners

Replacing the thermostat cover, and the bolt carb side just dropped into place,
no tightening or turning required.

Tried an M8 and a unf/unc stud, all three the same, straight in.

How this was tight and held on a near 400 mile trip is totally baffling.

Some chemical metal and a stud will go in tonight, or I may use the Weicon
aluminium repair stick.

And this is because the cooling system is literally sorted, definitly and infinitly cursed,
am I.

Ordered qty 2 M9 x 30mm, they may just do the trick.

Why not helicoil it?
Tony

tony g wrote:Why not helicoil it?
Tony

I was thinking of doing so, but I dont have the necessary tools to do the job right, not to mention another inlet manifold is at hand if the M9's don'twork out.

I agree. A UNC helicoil with a stud is the way to fix this for all time.

Anything epoxy based won't have the strength for a permanent repair.

Serious bad luck going on here, but helicols will solve it for ever.

Jonners

Mahesh a helicoil kit should come with a drill, tap, the inserts themselves and insertion tool. All you need in one box. An m9 bolt will need an m9 tap which is uncommon

Tony

Not helicoil but wil do the same job
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-16-UNC-Heli ... Sw0vBUdcN1

Or like I did last time use M8 kit and it gives you more scope for available bolts

Tony

Thanks guys, taken your advice, and have ordered a helicoil kit.
Lets see

The kit arrived today, seemed straightforward and for once it was. Opted for M8 kit, and removed the tap every 1.5 turns to vacuum the shavings out, no problems.
I did clean up the surface.

Bolted the thermostat cover back, and using Jonners method of coolant refill, topped up the system.

Warmed engine up for about 40 minutes, not a drop came out anywhere

Temp gague fractionally goes over half until stat opens, then back to half mark.

I have a good feeling the cooling system is back to the way it should be, a good road test in traffic and open road will tell.

Mahesh wrote: using Jonners method of coolant refill, topped up the system.

Sorry for the hijack as I'm interested in above:

Jonners - want to share you method of filling the water system on a sprint.

Paul

Flyfisherman wrote:

Mahesh wrote: using Jonners method of coolant refill, topped up the system.

Sorry for the hijack as I'm interested in above:

Jonners - want to share you method of filling the water system on a sprint.

Paul

It's halfway up the previous page Paul!

Steve

Flyfisherman wrote:

Mahesh wrote:can't seem to dismantle the push in section of the stalk to check voltage, is there a trick ?

The very end of the stalk pulls off - be careful.

Paul

Had a look today as there is no voltage at the screenwash motor,
There is volage coming through the end pins, so I shorted them only to find there is voltage at the motor, which was not present before

New screenwash motor it is then.