The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

That would be correct, as the feed goes through the switch first, you will only have power at the motor when the switch is closed.

Steve

Had exactly the same issue with the Jag last week, got the misses to press the switch while I had the motor off and the multi meter connected. £7.50 later, fixed, MOT next month too.

It never ends,

Since sorting out the blockage in the stat housing, a new problem has occurred, which showed up at Steves place, only a bit more now.

I'm getting bubbles in the expansion tank once the engine has warmed up,. I changed the expansion tank cap and this has helped, only a couple of bubbles every 4 minutes or so now.

They are not rev dependent, and the temp gague is maintaining a constant reading, but they are emerging from
the bottom of the tank as opposed to surface bubbling.

Arranging to borrow a compression tester (should just buy one) next week. If that goes well another radiator cap, if not a new HG?

Any suggestions or course of action would be most appreciated.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=31044&hilit=chemical

Post by Jeroen near the bottom of page 1 ??

Couple of bubbles every 4 minutes? I'd say nothing to worry about but to be sure...

I would drive it 20 miles after its warm and see if the level has dropped....

I suspect it wont have and there is nothing to worry about.

Who looks at a tank for 5 minutes....


Jonners

Probably some residual air in the system finding its way out. If you have a plastic expansion tank the cap probably doesn't seal on it either. Mine didn't and it took 2 new caps to realise it was a rubbish tank.

Agree with both of you, and let's face it, if it was a brass tank, who'd ever know.

Took the car for a spin and the coolant level has not dropped, so the new cap is fine, but must admit I did rubber mallet the metal ring on the expansion tank as the new cap is very tight.

Also richenend the rear carb by two flats, which has further smoothed out the idle and the general running to the point where I'd say, the car would keep the Carledo in sights (albeit with a pair of binoculars )

Just solved another minor issue, during the last few oil changes, never managed to get 4.5l oil in.

The dipstick was always showing max at 4L, even though the filter was removed/changed and left to drain overnight.

Turns out the felt washer on the dipstick was totally compressed over the years, new washer extra 4mm on the dipstick, 4.5L shows correct now.

Air bubbles in expansion tank had increased into a continuous stream during the last week.

Initially there are none on a cold start, but as soon as the thermostat opens, they start.

Found the main cause to be the hosepipe clip, on the top radiator hose, expansion tank side, on the stat housing, It was not put on straight (by me).

Corrected this by bringing the clip closer to the edge of the hose, and tightened down till I felt it bite down.
This has also resulted in bringing the temp gague down a little, there are still the odd bubble, will repeat for the other clips.

Can't see exactly from the picture but I would push the main top hose further onto the stat-housing outlet pipe and then clamp it up.

Took the tunnel out, just to make sure it wasn't dirty.
and also to change the useless new Lucas o/drive inhibitor switch.

Mahesh wrote:Took the tunnel out, just to make sure it wasn't dirty.

.........

very good

On the way back from Stoneleigh today I had to detour through central London.

This is because there was traffic on the final few exit's and I changed over to the M4, had to do the same for the A406 and had to come back through Uxbridge.

Stuck behind a bus in traffic for over an hour I finally made it the Kings Cross station and a clear road, by this time the car was running a bit hotter than norm but not 3/4 on the gauge.

Then the engine seemed to run rough and just stopped.

Checked under the bonnet, all I could tell is that there was no spark at the plugs. The coil was extremely hot as we're the spark plug leads and distributor cap.

Looking inside the dizzy, the condenser was untouchably heated up as was the dizzy main body.

Both contacts and condenser were changed a couple of months ago, but stuck at the roadside, I had the old set in the boot.

Big mistake, tried to change them from the passenger side due to passing traffic. Dropped the screwdriver and contact screw, where ?, right onto the exhaust double front pipe, all attempts at retrieval made it go further down, ended up squeezing under the car and removing screw and driver.

Not a major problem, but all this took over 40 minutes in a high traffic zone with alcohol intoxicated pedestrians.

After that the condenser screw went either under the dizzy base plate or somewhere unfathomable.

Condenser in place with no screw, I replaced the flash guard, rotor and cap, engine started immediately even without bothering to gap the contacts, carefully driven home and parked up, 10pm arrival.

Do ign coils get this hot ?, and same for dizzy main body ?,
I've never checked before.

Sorry to hear about your problems. Lucky you had spares in the boot. At least you didn't have any problems relating to our spannering at the show.

I'd always recommend going across the top of london and then in down the A12. Obviously the M25 is the norm but if that's out then
there are some decent orbital bits that won't leave you stationary for an hour at a time.

It sounds like you need to go for a maplin kit which will loose the reliance on the condensor and just keeps the points as a low current switch.
You can build it yourself and stick it in a box for less than 20 quid.

The symptoms you describe are a condensor shorting the coil. This will heat the whole lot up pretty quickly.

Given the dubious quality of condensors these days you only have 2 options with a Sprint. Fork out the 95 quid for a magnetronic or do the Maplin.
For me it was a no brainer.

Oh and loose the ballast system and get a 12V blue bosch coil at the same time.

Jonners