1850 gremlins

[Jon Tilson]

There is also the possibility of a TR7 cover. This may well have the same part number but will have the timing
marks in a different place and will not match the notch on the 1850 pulley.
Sprint covers are deeper to accommodate the duplex chain and sprockets and match with the deeper head recess
at the top. They are as has been said not interchangeable.

Those piston marks are odd. I wouldnt expect all 4 pistons to show signs of valve contact if the chain broke. Yet they
really dont look like machined cutouts either. Most odd...

Jonners

[tony g]

Hence why I said the valve timing was put together wrong. The double mark per valve looks like it hit, bent the valve then hit again creating the smaller nick. I'll be popping over this afternoon for a look see.

Tony

[RJF_70]

There is also the possibility of a TR7 cover. This may well have the same part number but will have the timing
marks in a different place and will not match the notch on the 1850 pulley.
Sprint covers are deeper to accommodate the duplex chain and sprockets and match with the deeper head recess
at the top. They are as has been said not interchangeable.

Those piston marks are odd. I wouldnt expect all 4 pistons to show signs of valve contact if the chain broke. Yet they
really dont look like machined cutouts either. Most odd...

Jonners

Jonners, is the timing case on 1850 as per the one on previous page from Tony, or is the only way to tell by measuring the depth?
Rich

[MIG Wielder]

Well Done Jon; is there anything you don't know about Dolomites ?
Thinking about it, it makes sense that the Sprint timing case is deeper.
Anyway I tried to compare the one on my 1850 with this spare one. The problem is that its difficult to get the callipers in without putting them through the rad; I found a suitable point on the top face by the cast boss for the 2nd fixing bolt from the top. On my 1850 it measured 38mm ; the corresponding point on this spare one measures 43 mm.
Is 5mm about right for the difference ? I don't claim any great accuracy for the plastic callipers and the fact I'm measuring a cast item.
So this spare casing I have may be Sprint (or TR7 ? ) then ? Are the Sprint comb-style fixed timing marks on the top of the crank pulley like the 1850. ?
The casting I.D. inside is V3268 btw.
Thanks,
Tony.

[Jon Tilson]

Without having samples of all three covers side by side its hard to say.
I know that the TR7 engine in one of mine has the timing marks in a slightly different place to
how it looks on an 1850.

I suspect the timing chain has to match with the crank pulley. Ive never actually had to swap a timing cover
from engine to engine. They are dowelled but who knows how accurate the timing marks are...

In this case any 8v timing cover is fine, but it would be a very good idea to check the real tdc aligns with the marks.

Jonners

[mahony]

Tr7 timing cover is part number ukc954 and only £12.74 new including vat as opposed to the 1850 ukc3644 at £73 including vat ( Rimmers prices ) so I guess they may not be interchangeable

[Triumph1300]

Hhhmm, after a fresh eyes review by Tony G we're looking at the following:
Leaking valves
Scored bores
Worn crank gear
Damaged cam shims
Damaged timing chain cover
Jackshaft reasonably ok

My logic says we can rebuild it, but from a time, and value point of view, I'm concluding the a good secondhand 1850, or TR7 engine would be the better option.

Any offers?

[Toledo Man]

THIS should yield a suitable engine.

[Toledo Man]

They've already listed the engine in their ebay shop Price looks to be a bit steep though. A bit of negotiation perhaps...

[RJF_70]

Hhhmm, after a fresh eyes review by Tony G we're looking at the following:
Leaking valves
Scored bores
Worn crank gear
Damaged cam shims
Damaged timing chain cover
Jackshaft reasonably ok

My logic says we can rebuild it, but from a time, and value point of view, I'm concluding the a good secondhand 1850, or TR7 engine would be the better option.

Any offers?

As Bruce says, certainly has been problems with crank pulley area in the past, the sprocket was missing 1 full tooth and 2 half teeth, when the sprocket was removed the shims virtually fell apart and the shaft was notchy where the sprocket must have been moving at some time! Leaky inlet valves on 1 & 2 and some marks on bores, a bad score on 4 that runs all way down that you can feel with your nail! Tony said he'd seen worse Jackshafts, so some good news
Have I covered it all Tony and Bruce?
Cheers Rich..

[RJF_70]

They've already listed the engine in their ebay shop Price looks to be a bit steep though. A bit of negotiation perhaps...

Wonder why they didn't leave the box on it in the background, just the torque converter?

[Toledo Man]

You can compare the torque converter and flexplate to the clutch & flywheel but the torque converter should be unbolted from the flexplate when the engine and autobox are being separated (only 4 bolts). There will have been some fluid lost when they separated them.

[Jon Tilson]

That is a breakers yard style removal and price....
You will possibly get cheaper but that comes with all you need....

I personally would remove it as Dave describes but a wrecker isn't too bothered about loosing a bit of fluid and this
saves faffing about undoing hidden bolts from underneath its quite understandable.

If you do want a TR7 engine I have one....but PM me to discuss.

Jonners

[mahony]

Sorry but £350 for a working good engine with carbs dizzy and manifold and various other bit's is cheap

[Toledo Man]

It might be cheaper then an engine rebuild...

I'm waiting to hear from the same seller about the wheels.