The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Got into the garage!

Spent many hours with the knotted wire brush and have almost stripped the back end of the car. Have to finish a small amount in the boot and the lower bits of both sides for the job to be complete.

I managed to get the rear bumper off, sadly, it has left a small hole in an otherwise mint rear lower valance Not entirely sure I will refit the towbar as it was just welded to the bumper irons (obviously it had a supporting bracket as well). I might look at the one I have for a Dolly and see if it can be adjusted or I might look at doing this one differently somehow.

Might give the bodywork a break tomorrow and have a go at the interior. Just for a change of focus.

No photos today, as I forgot to put the memory card in the camera. Will take some tomorrow.

Here we go. Have taken most of the rear end down to bare metal as planned. I now need to remove the rear screen and the roof vents. This will finish the job.

I will then DA the panels again and hand sand the nooks and crannys. It will be rustproofed a couple of times and then any filling required will be done. There is minimal filling to be honest, mostly that hole in the rear valance and a small pin sized ding also on the rear valance. I will be fitting a heated rear screen.

It will then receive a coat of etch primer and 3 or 4 coats of spray filler.

Piccies as promised:

That looks great Ken. How long can you leave bare metal like that? I am sure if I tried that up here with the weather we have been having, it would turn orange over night.
The 1300 is going to turn out great! Can't wait to see it painted with the badges back on.

It'll only be left about a week. It'll be quickly DA sanded and have a couple of coats of rustkiller, then primed asap and painted with a light topcoat.

Fantastic work Ken, it must be great to see a car that you've always wanted slowly taking shape before your eyes.

Steve

Looking good mate,

Making me want to restore MWK now.......

I quite like that bare metal look!!

Keep up the good work, ill see about holiday and i may pop down and give you a hand for the day!!

Nathan

Cheers guys. Quicker would be better

That would be very cool if you could mate. Nando's on me!

Once the back end is done i might turn it round and make a start on the front end.

The roof will be last and done outdoors at my mates place.

I'm not happy with the way the bonnet sits and this might take up some time to sort out. I have a good replacement bonnet as well.

Have been having a little think about this car.

What could I sensibly consider re: subtle modifications to make it run/drive/handle and look better. Bear in mind funds are tight (aren't they always).

One mod already done is the additional brake light in the middle vent.

Nothing extreme please!

Did someone say Nandos, drooool,

K, when you get to the front check the inside of the bonnet, the frame that crosses the inside should be attached by spot welds, you you probably find it isnt which will cause the bonnet to warp.

Nando's, Nando's, Nando's!

Can you post a piccie of what I am supposed to check? Is it easily remedied?

Spitfire head, Twin 1 1/4 carbs, 4 into 1 manifold, replica SAH panel, smaller steering wheel, (Need 200 mk1 steering boss), Rover 114 alloys, Spax dampers, boot mounted 6 pack CD player, spots, uprated springs, alternatively, buy KAC for lots of money!!!!!!


Lottery winners only to apply, and I still might not sell!

SAH panel???

Rest sounds quite good actually..... hmmm.

SAH panel = additional instrument panel in the centre.
To be accurate, it should carry te RH gauge froom the main panel, plus oil press and temp, and is substituted in the main panel with a Veglia rev counter.

I've got a slightly different take on things

Ken if you open the bonnet and have a look there is a frame to which the main bonnet panel attachs to,this should be fixed , if you hold the bonnet and pull down on one side and push up on the other in effect trying to twist the panel this will show if the frame is still attached to the bonnet, if not this could cause the panel to be warped.

The nearside wing is also a bad fit where the cowling attaches.