project 'gloria', THE RESURRECTION

[Jon Tilson]

Kev have you ever been in an 1850 of any sort?...

There is no way a 1500 with a 1300 exhaust set up will live with an 1850. Even when its fixed....and with a proper zorst you wont come close.

Still...no harm in getting it as good as you can. Have a look at the triumphtune guide for needles when you have the good zosrt on. It will gain you 5-7 bhp.
The straight through set up on my spit is worth about that and I use AAR needles IIRC. Thats with a 4-2-1- manifold that you cant get on a dolly.
Spit std is AAQ so that may be close for you with the standard factory manifold.

I didnt have a lot of joy with K+N's on the spit and went back to the standard air box. I lost about 5 mpg over the factory setup but its a good bit livelier and the nice noise makes it a bit more tempting.

Worth having new jets cos they do wear oval. Sound like you need to balance them too.

Good luck and I'll be on for a race when you are ready...

Oh I'm sure you now its 10 BTDC static amd make sure the Vacuum advance works...give it a suck and GTX in the dashpots.


Jonners

[Dollyboy]

yes sir, 50% share in an inca non o/d and also borrowed a brooklands o/d for a couple of wks. the o/d wiring in the brooklands one was bypassed (not by me i might add), both were fun. i know you're just trying to push my buttons, but you're missing the point.

the current problem is emmissions for MOT. the problem isnt helped by the fact its got a restrictive zorst, richer needles, no airbox or filters. i just want to get it close enough to what mr ministry of transport says is acceptable so i can get the ticket, then glorias fuelling/breathing problem will soon be sorted. what passes an mot, i.e. blowing out crap and warming up for lower HC and leaning off for lower CO doesnt make for optimum performance... i just need the mot for now so i can drive it to my mates place, here>>>> http://www.custom-chrome.co.uk/contact.htm

the zorst situation is as follows: 1300 manifold is staying, it'll be good for 120-130hp (not that this engine will make quite that much). the rest of the zorst is going and being replaced with stainless. using 1300 manifold as it seals much better than the 1500 and wont blow downpipe gaskets. the o/d of the downpipe will be the i/d of the manifold outlet, i think its 1 5/8" or 1 3/4", to the middle box (straight through) where the pipe will then become 2" to a 'muff diver' (cherry bomb) and tail pipe. thats a fair bit more free flowing than whats on there, so that'll be that problem solved. then some further experimental tweaking of carbs (needles, jets, mixture) air intake (socks, air box, filter, ducting) etc and we'll get to an optimum somewhere in there. It'll never be perfect, theres no such thing.

trust me jonners, when the zorst and fine tuning is done, standard 1850's run for cover, bear in mind the gearing, similar power (although different delivery), slightly smaller lighter well sorted spec car, maybe we should get the ohv challenge up n running...

[sprint95m]

With your new exhaust fitted, your emissions' readings will be improved?
Certainly that was my experience after fitting a straight through exhaust to a T2500S, the engine was noticeably more free revving (well as free revving as a long stroke engine can be), so much so I had to reduce the now much increased idle speed. It also idled better but this proved to only be during warm weather. Fuel economy was a bit improved making 30-32mpg possible.
Will that extra power and torque be hard on your gearbox? An 1850 box has a better gear ratio spacing in my opinion for your car. Pity it is not a straight fit. Mind you it probably won't handle the torque too well though ?

This has been an interesting story.
Hope your car proves to be as good as you make it sound,

[Dollyboy]

thanks - just had a chat with a knowledgeable carb guy, few things will be checked over the next couple of days to see what lengths we shall be going to.

It seems a point for concern is the 1300 manifold in terms of unleashing some power - my estimate of how much a 1300 manifold will be good for could be way too optimistic. maybe this is the culprit causing the biggest part of the restriction, so here cometh the debate over whether the drive train will withstand the bashing if i was to use a 1500 or tubular manifold. 1500 o/d had a 1500 manifold, so derrrrr, bit obvious, that one. trouble is once the exhaust is made to fit the 1300 single pipe manifold, adapting it if i want to fit a 1500 manifold will be a pain. still, doable.

if we go the full monty and allow this motor to achieve its potential, smashing gearboxes isnt something im keen to experience, but thats really very much down to how its driven. i'd rather have the power there and use it with caution than sit there trying to summon the power of greyskull to make it go quicker.

i wonder how much i dare grind out the 1300 manifold...

anyway, pondering continues...

welding dave also started gloria in gear, hitting the bench in his unit. what a fookin dullard. minor front panel dent pulling required, repainting happening in couple of wks anyway, lifes too short to be p'd off, at least my bill is now cheaper.

[DavePoth]

I shouldn't worry too much about the gearbox; regardless of the number of horsies you get out of it the torque will not increase massively, so it should handle the power without too many ill effects.

[sprint95m]

the current problem is emmissions for MOT. the problem isnt helped by the fact its got a restrictive zorst, richer needles, no airbox or filters.

Did you have the air filter box fitted when it failed the MOT?
On the 2500S with twin HS6 SU carbs you have to remove the airbox to set up the carbs. This is OK at idle speed but the car is then useless to drive (I assume because the air is not being drawn into the carbs at the necessary speed) until the airbox is refitted.
It is a pity that the Spitfire tubular manifold is unsuitable as tubular is surely the way to go? What about a 1300TC exhaust manifold?

[Dollyboy]

no airbox fitted. theres serveral things relating to set up of ign timing, mixture etc that have been purposefully neglected until now. apparently jigsaw have a version of the tubular manifold that will fit a dolly (and therefore a tolly) but im not forking out for that yet, it'll cost about as much as the exhaust!

decision made - 1300 manifold stays. apparently the difference between a 1300 and 1500 manifold is a few hp, the 1300 will maintain jointing better, the head has had very little porting, so theres lots of things to do for small improvements in terms of gas flow, the exhaust will most likely make the biggest difference.

jet/service kit will be ordered i think.

now feeling happier with life again.

[Mr X]

Well done.
It will be nice to see another hot OHV around.
Standard 1850's are no match for my 1300....

[triple tango]

I've driven a 1300 with twin carbs & a 1300 single outlet exhaust manifold also a 1300 with twin carbs and a 1500 twin outlet exhaust manifold.

The car with the 1500 manifold was much quicker & torquier everywhere. It also never blew the downpipe gasket at all in the year I had it.

[Jon Tilson]

I would tend to agree...

Having run Spits for years Ive always found them faster than 1500 midgets. The figures were 71 for a mdiget and 75 for a spit. Of course there is enough margin for error there for that to be irrelevant, but its the only difference apart frm a black rocker cover and a different make of slave cylinder...

It is possible to get the 1500 downpipe flange to seal but mine never lasted long and the studs deteriorate over time.
The availablilty of a 4-2-1 for spits makes it a no brainer...

Keep trying Kev. I too have plans to hot up a 1300 later this year, but have no illusions about anything other than not quite keeping up with a slant 4...
There is just no substitute for cubes...and a better starting place...ohc and ally head for just 2...
As Scottie says...ye cannae change the laws of physics cap'n...

Jonners

[Dollyboy]

so, update.

gloria is now at custom chrome having a new zorst made.

carb service kit in my possession with new needles and jets. carbs already been converted to capstat jets but new ones have come with the kit and will be fitted. needles currently installed as yet unknown, but have new AAQ needles that will be fitted along with stronger springs as recommended to me by 2 carb specialists.

im just about to head out and get some new number plates done, and some more sticky stuff to fit the remaining trim to passenger door and wing. pics to follow soon.

[Jod Clark]

but it aint gona sit there burning rubber at the lights, more likely the clutch will explode if you tried that!

She used to wag her tail away from the lights in first and second.... I think you're gonna be surprised how well it goes once its breathing freely and set-up properly. As a guide, it took me about a week of daily driving and constant fiddling to get it right but once on song it was fantastic. And it will be so again. Remember, when we dropped it into your car it was set-up for a 4-foot exhausts pipe with a 2" straight through silencer out the side so its hardly surprising that the Toledo pea-shooter is strangling it

[Jod Clark]

I shouldn't worry too much about the gearbox; regardless of the number of horsies you get out of it the torque will not increase massively, so it should handle the power without too many ill effects.

Yeah. Right.

[Dollyboy]

zorst done... subtle noise, like a sprint sports zorst. expected it to be louder but thats no bad thing. more importantly, it has unleashed some potential thats for sure.

new 'legal' number plates done.

next job - carbs.

[Sprint36]

Sounds like things are coming on nicely Kev. Bring it round when it's done.

David