The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hi All. Does anyone else have a Sprint with Positive Camber angle (wheels out at top but still within specification) and no camber shims fitted ? The ride height measured from the centre of the wheel cap to the wheel arch lip is about 360 mm which is prety much original ride hight if not lower ! I do plan to lower the height slightly say to 345 - 350 mm and this should reduce positive camber. I just seem to remember all my other Dolomites have had 2 shims fitted. The subframe was a new item a while ago, so maybe it was a factory reject that found its way in to the spares system ? Any ideas ? Should I be worrying ?

Cheers.

Hello, 1 degree negative is the best. Zero or positive camber is less drivable.

Jeroen

Do not despair John you can go negative by putting spacers behind the bottom ball joint which pushes the upright out further.
Might not be a bad idea to make sure the inner control arm bush is sound because that could cause a positive setting but unlikely.
There is one more point to consider, if it is set up with too much toe in it would go into positive too.

trackerjack wrote:Do not despair John you can go negative by putting spacers behind the bottom ball joint which pushes the upright out further.

Hello, better is to put a spacer between the subframe and bracket to push the lower arm more out. When putting spacers between the lower balljoint and vertical link you create a different offset. The centre of the wheel goes further out from the balljoint. This also causes more balljoint wear because there is a bigger moment/force on it. It is the same as using wheelspacers. The car is hanging more on the lower balljoint and good ones are hard to get and expensive.

Jeroen Rothman

You could allways bin the bottom ball joints
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=10992

Thanks for the advice chaps. I lowered the car slightly last night. Distance between centre of wheel cap and wheel arch is now approx 345 - 350 mm. Camber is now almost 0 deg ( I have a crude home made gauge based on a plumb line). I do not race my car, just use it on the road, but have never been happy with the handleing since I fitted GAZ shocks. I have messed with ride height changes so many times I can do it with my eyes closed. Last week I fitted a set of shortened tie bars, purchased from the club, and this has improved the stability. With the slightly lower ride height and 0 deg camber I am hoping I have finally sorted the handleing. I am convinced that GAZ shocks are not suited to the Dolly. I can't afford to replace them..... ho hum.

Cheers

JOhn

jeroensprint wrote:

trackerjack wrote:Do not despair John you can go negative by putting spacers behind the bottom ball joint which pushes the upright out further.

Hello, better is to put a spacer between the subframe and bracket to push the lower arm more out. When putting spacers between the lower balljoint and vertical link you create a different offset. The centre of the wheel goes further out from the balljoint. This also causes more balljoint wear because there is a bigger moment/force on it. It is the same as using wheelspacers. The car is hanging more on the lower balljoint and good ones are hard to get and expensive.

Jeroen Rothman

Thanks for that Jeroen, sometimes its the small things that make all the difference, and your method is easy too.

Cheers DF could be doing that too!

Drove the Sprint to work this morning. (Distance from front wheel centre to wheel arch edge approx 345 - 350 mm) and my new shortened tie bars (shortened to max adjustment by about 8 - 10 mm).Wow, what an improvement. Gone is the vaugeness, twitching, unstable car, back is the Sprint I know & love! Need to let it settle and check camber again. I may add a small spacer between the the lower bracket fixing & subframe. How thick should the spacer be to acheive a 1 degree change?

Given that I have had this car for 20 years I am convinced I must have a reject subframe. The previous subframe did not require shortened tie bars and removal of all camber shims to acheive this level of handleing or camber setting.

Thanks agian chaps.