With all the problems ive been having with the fuel system for the last couple of months, i have decided to get an electric pump to replace the mechanical one.
The only thing i'm not sure on, is the pressure. I've read in alot of places that over 4 PSI is too much. i have seen pumps rated 4-4.5PSI and pumps rated 1.5-4PSI, will 1.5PSI still be enough pressure to push the fuel from the tank to the carbs if im going up a steep hill? .... i assume it would be otherwise they wouldn't sell them, but it can't hurt to ask .
Ouch! they are £60. what i was planning on doing is putting the pump below the tank an have the fuel "pushed" up the fuel line to the engine as apposed to the current mechanical pump "sucking/ pulling" the fuel up the fuel line.
i'm only doing this as my car keeps randomly dying and when i open the bowls they are empty. you can drive for 50miles fine then all of a sudden it will keep dying of fuel starvation and i can't get to the bottom of the problem.
Replaced the pump, no change and replaced all the rubber parts of fuel line... still no change. is it possible for the tank to be blocked... (intermittently)? if so, how would you go about cleaning it out?
Be careful if fitting the pump as a pusher, if there are any weaknesses in the pipework under the car, it'll find them!
Personally, I use a Morris Minor style sucker pump, mounted off the nearside strut top.
BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018 NOBODYexpects the Canley Inquisition!
That's exactly what i was hoping! if there is any weaknesses, it will find them, then i can replace any damaged parts . at the moment if there is any damaged parts i assume the pump will be sucking up air... which could be casuing my problem???
does anyone know if you need an isolator inside the car for an electric fuel pump... to pass MOT etc...?
Not for the test, no, but I always use an inertia cut-out if fitting an electric pump to a car that didn't come with, and scrapped Citroen AXs - possibly several similar cars too, I.E. late [K-series] Metros - have the ideal one under their front driver's side seat.
Obviously you'll want it fed from the live side of the ignition switch so that it isn't running when the car's not in use.
Reason for mounting off the nearside strut top, you can (on a 1300) pick up power from the coil
BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018 NOBODYexpects the Canley Inquisition!
means ive got to run Another cable through the car again... wish i knew this when i put my alarm in, would have run it in at the same time. does anyone have any idea as to how much current these pump draw? none of them say. cant be much more than a couple or a few amps can it? i don't want to overload the keyswitch contacts by adding more and more things...
inertia switches look to be around £15... should it be mounted to a sturdy part of the car i take it?
It is ideally fitted under a seat, but as there's only room for that in a Dolly when the driver has their seat adjusted as high as it goes, maybe under the back seat base would do instead, as long as the big sack of lagging that lives under there will accommodate the switch.
I see no reason why you couldn't fit the switch in the oddments tray on the tunnel seeing as the important thing is that it's as close to central as possible, so that it responds equally well to a front or rear impact. OK, that would rob you of the best place to put a phone in a Dolly, but it's a thought.
Ok thanks for the ideas. to be honest i completly overlooked the inertia switchwhen thinking about getting an electric fuel pump. i guess i will have to order a switch and see how big it is and where it will fit.
What about partial tank vacuum due to a blocked vent in the filler cap?
Did you check for that? There is no reason to change to an electric pump. 95% of the worlds dolomite population are quite happy with the standard pump. If yours isnt then the underlying reason will not be solved by going electric.
If your tank is indeed going under vacuum, then a more powerful pump will put it under bigger vaccum, which may cause it to split.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
My neigbour's 1300 dolly (which later became my first car) did exactly the same thing in about 1991and it imploded the tank. It was just cause he'd fitted a temp fuel cap with no breather. I think if you've already fitted a new pump and nothing changed, then changing to an electric pump is an expensive way to find a fault which might cost just a couple of quid to fix.
On another note, I don't think inertia switches need to be fitted inside the car. My TR6 had triple webers with a facet elec pump and the inertia switch was fitted in the engine bay on the bulkhead and I never had any problems with it.
Neither you would have had, but, had there been a rear-end impact, the switch wouldn't have worked properly mounted in the engine bay and the pump could well have carried on pumping fuel through from what could have been a ruptured tank.
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. at the moment if there is any damaged parts i assume the pump will be sucking up air... which could be casuing my problem??? 