The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 8:50 pm 
Wow, thought this was my Toledo for a second in that colour, wouldnt happen to be a certain Ferrari colour would it? Havent read back far enough to find out yet, Beautiful build.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 7:00 am 
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Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Glynn, it is the orginal Vermillion colour.

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Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 9:55 am 
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Oh Yes, definitely Vermillion. Currently it's all that colour but hopefully in November the roof will be vinyl covered so it'll tone down the sheer amount of Orange!

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Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 12:10 pm 
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Very nice work on the trim :thumbsup:

Tony

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 3:45 pm 
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Continuing with the orange theme I thought I'd have a look at the steering wheel. I've never liked the standard finish on the Dolly wheels, the horrible plasticky covering is not very nice to use and just looks awful. I also find the wheel a little too thin and a thin wheel aggravates an elbow injury.

I decided that the wheel would be far nicer in leather. I thought for a while that I might consider a Moto-Lita or something like that but they are expensive and I'm not really convinced they suit the Dolomite either so thought I'd have a look at alternatives. I found quite a few people offering sew on covers but I wasn't that convinced they would fit that well so thought I'd make my own. I stripped down the wheel before adding a layer of neoprene to make it slightly thicker and more comfortable for me. I then cut some printed (textured) leather to shape before stitching it together. Using a textured leather gives it a slightly nicer grip. My Mazda has a smooth leather Nardi wheel which looks nice but I sometimes find it a bit smooth.

I chose to use an orange thread that closely matches the vermillion exterior. My daily I specced with red steering wheel stitching and I just thought that anything other than black would be nice, orange seemed the natural choice.

Unfortunately I used the works camera to take the pictures and 'someone' borrowed the camera and deleted my development pictures so you'll just have the end result to look at! I'm pleased with the result and it wasn't especially difficult to do. The time consuming bit was making the pattern and stitching it together.

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Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 8:07 pm 
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Location: Harrow Middlesex
Mark

that looks good,i know what you mean about the original steering wheel being to thin,the stag wheel is the same as a sprint,i padded mine out by sticking two layers of leather on top of each other i use red,it wasnt untill i went to put the top perforated leather cover over the top,you could see the red showing through :shock: had to dye the red black before fitting the outter cover :)

Dave


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 Post subject: Re: Head back at last
PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 11:17 am 
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It's been quite a while but I've finally got my cylinder head back which I entrusted to Peter Burgess way back in mid-June.

He's given it a good clean as it was really coked up. New valve guides have been fitted for both inlet and exhaust, seats cut and new valves fitted. I was originally only going to do one set of guides but on closer inspection it seemed better to do all of them.

I also asked him to have a look at improving the gas flow of the head so he's done a bit of porting work to clean things up without going too wild, this was also carried out on the inlet manifold. The standard head isn't too bad for breathing but the quality of the original casting means some improvements can be made. All of this work is carried out by hand, not CNC. The setup costs of CNC are crazy for just one head.

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The final task was to look at the combustion chamber volume. With the Sprint engine so prone to HGF I wanted to make sure that the compression ratio was as equal as possible across the 4 cylinders. Not only will this make things smoother and more powerful it also ensures the combustion stress is more equally distributed across the head and block. It may sound a bit OTT but it's good practice when building an engine for performance and reliability. Actually the chambers weren't hugely different, I forget the exact numbers though. The head required a 10 thou skim and the result is a 47.7cc chamber volume. Overall the compression ratio will be higher than standard but not nearly as high as you'd have in a race engine.

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Got a few jobs to finish off and then I'll get to work building up the head. Though it was a bit annoying waiting for the head to come back it has allowed me to get on with a lot of other jobs on the car. Hopefully next month I'm having a new vinyl roof fitted along with the headlining. This will mean I can fit the front and rear screens. I'm not aiming to have it finished by a certain date but it just might be possible to be running next year sometime.

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Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 12:42 pm 
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Some great work going on there Mark, I know you had a break to get your Mojo back but you're going really well now.
The light at the end of the tunnel is glowing brightly.
It's an inspiration for people like me but i'd never achieve anything near what you're doing.
Can't wait to see it in the flesh.

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75 Sprint in Magenta called GunGaDiN GGD944N
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 10:28 am 
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Steering wheel looks ace, well done on that. :thumbsup:

Tony

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 12:26 am 
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Mark,

I do not want to be a party pooper or spoil your thread but your head doesn't seem to be ok and reworked to a normal standard.

The valves are too deep in the seats. The cause can be slightly too small valves or wrong grinded or most likely the seats are machined wrong. Both cases you have to replace the valves or seats. I think your machineshop should not have provided you your head in this state.

Having the valves this way will have less opening area so your engine will not deliver it's max power but that is the less worrying. The valves will after some relative short time not seal. Normally a valve sits on top of a seat and not in a seat. In your situation when there is little wear the valve does not seal properly anymore and will burn.

I even think it's impossible to adjust the valves this way. You will need very thin shims. I would check that first. No valve springs yet but only the top spring seat fitted with a shim and a bucket. Then fitting the camshaft and see if all is ok and adjustable.

I have to diagnose from your pics only ofcourse but it seems very seriously wrong.

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This is your head.

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From a different angle. It looks like the valves are flush and some even more than flush towards the inside.

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This is an 1850 head of mine with valves flush after about 250.000km. When the valves are on this point they technically can't seal anymore and burn away as seen.

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Same head another cilinder.

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This is my latest head. Your can see the new valves are on top of the seats.

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More detail.

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This is my volvo head with new exhaust valves that i replaced about 2 months ago. Clearly you can see the valves on top.

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This is a sprint head from many years ago. Valves on top. These are used valves and reworked seats.


Reworking seats and valves is not rocketscience but a normal machining procedure for a machineshop and I think yours did a very bad job.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 7:00 pm 
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I'd be surprised if he had messed it up as he's done quite a few, especially race engines but the proof will come when I assemble out and do some measuring

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Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 11:36 am 
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For those of you who don't do Facecloth then 'We Have Lights'.

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I attached my power supply to the battery terminals and had a play with a few circuits. The supply gives 2 amps max so it's safe to use, though it does mean you can't run the headlights or the fan (though the relays clicked) but I was able to check out the rear stop lamps, number plate lamps and front side lights. The hazards sort of worked in they lit up but I had no indicators or brake lights. I did though have a horn and also the dash clocks lit up nicely.

More testing to follow. The power supply should enable me to test the rest of the circuits with a multimeter.

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Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 12:18 pm 
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My rebuilt carbs have been languishing in a box for several months now. With the head back I set about building up the manifold.

The manifold went off with the head so it could be better matched to the inlets on the head and also to remove some of the worst casting flaws. Unfortunately the manifold still needed a clean as Peter Burgess doesn't have a bead blaster facility.

I ended up having my manifold bead blasted, I was thinking vapour blasting but it was more convenient to take it to my usual chap who only does soda and bead. Am pleased with the result though.

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I started by fitting club sourced carb mounts. The repro rubber mounts just don't last so fitting the solid ones will mean they stay together pretty much forever. Both sides of the mounts have o rings for sealing, I actually used a smear of blue Hylomar for good measure!

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It's a bit fiddly to fit the carb bodies along with the linkages but I got there in the end. It was necessary to cut the studs down on the mounts to fit the bodies as they are too long. Thermostat, temp sender and breather pipes complete the job.

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Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 2:57 pm 
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:thumbsup: Very nice.
Where did the breather pipes come from?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 3:25 pm 
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Quote:
:thumbsup: Very nice.
Where did the breather pipes come from?
The rubber ones were from RB I think, they aren't anything special. I'd like to have used some silicone but you can't get the shape. The rubber ones are OK for a few years till they crack and perish but at least they're cheap.

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Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


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