The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hi all,

Just recently got my car back on the road after being laid up for a month and a half. It was fine when I first drove it again, but the last three or four days it has been awful, it's basically kangarooing if you apply medium/hard throttle in any gear. I've tried warming it up for a while but it didn't make a difference. Then just now on the way back to work, I could hear something popping away at the front like it was trying to fire out of the carb instead of properly. Seems to be getting worse each day.

I haven't yet had chance to look into it further, but I will be doing tonight - anyone got any tips or advice for me before I start? It was running fine before the MOT, it's possible the mechanic adjusted something to get it through emissions and it's affecting the engine now the weather has turned cold. One thing I did notice was that the temp needle is buried at the bottom end, but vibrating away to itself which it never used to do before.

Help!

Sounds like a blocked jet/fuel starvation to me.

Does it improve if you pull the choke out?

Didn't seem to, or maybe it improved slightly but it didn't stop it happening.

Just trying to prove it is fuel starvation, pulling the choke (obviously) richens what little is getting through, if there is even a slight improvement then it proves it's fuel and not ignition related.

I reckon some crap has found it's way up the fuel line and is blocking something, the only way to find out what is being blocked is to strip the carb I'm afraid, then once rectified fit an inline filter.

I will check it out tonight if I get chance, cheers!

This type of fault is really annoying. I agree with everything Alan has just said but I'd also be prepared to swap out the coil.
I once had a very similar set of symptoms which turned out to be just that.

Jonners

OK, tonight I have tested pulling out the choke fully (makes no difference), then I cleaned all the plugs (they were black, shouldn't be as they're almost new), squirted carb cleaner into the intake to see if that shifted any gunk, WD-40'd the HT leads, connectors on the coil, dizzy, etc. I also put fresh fuel in just in case maybe some water had got in or something like that. All made no difference.

I'm thinking it probably is ignition related, just doesn't seem fuelly somehow and the exhaust does smell rich. If I drive the car normally (and very gently on the flat) it seems quite smooth, it's only when under load that it misbehaves such as going up a hill or if I stick it in 4th at about 20mph it does an impression of Skippy the bush kangaroo...

So, anyone know what model coil I need for a '77 1300? It's a Lucas but there are no other markings on there other than MADE IN ENGLAND and A. Silver with a black plastic top. It's in the plan to get one of those electronic ignition thingybobs from the Landrover crew so ideally I would like a coil that'll work with that - not sure if it needs an uprated one or not.

I had this and I think I've finally tracked it down to a faulty spark plug after trying literally everything. Time will tell...

I was/am having some running problems with my 1300, i have changed everything; plugs, coil, points, leads, cap, rotor arm etc, one significant item was that the plate for the advance and retard was stuck, would not rotate at all, once fixed still nothing, then i found the vacum unit was also siezed, so i bought a new one from James Paddock, much cheaper than that Rimmers. runners much better but still the occasional flat spot. you can check the operation of the vac unit just by sucking on the pipe from the carb end, should be able to see it move 5 degrees etc.

I reckon a coil is worth doing as it's not too expensive and the one that is on looks ancient - everything else pretty much (plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, air filter, etc) is virtually brand new and has been working fine for weeks beforehand. Just need to work out which coil I need - according to this I need a 45D (don't worry I wouldn't pay this much, lol) - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dolomite-1300 ... 0762911489 - does that sound right?

It really doesnt matter much as long as you dont get an intermotor one.

I think a 1300 has a ballasted setup which means your coil will be running at 6V and just gets a boost at full battery volts when cranking. The Lucas coil for this setup is a DLB or GCL 110 IIRC. If you want to do away with the ballasted setup and run at full battery volts all the time go for a DLB 105. They are both about on ebay for around a score last time I looked.

Cheap but good coils can be found on various Nissans in scrap yards made by nippon denso. Ive had good results with those too.

Jonners

Actually, when I add up the cost of the Britpart from the Landy people, with VAT and postage, plus a coil from elsewhere with postage it comes out roughly the same as Simon BBC is selling the above kit for. Might just go for that one.

Thats not a bad deal. I suppose my only question would be who makes the coil.

The module is good stuff....Ive fitted 2 now and no issues.

Your problem could also be a duff condensor, which this would solve too. Then you would have a spare coil as well.

Jonners

Jon Tilson wrote:Thats not a bad deal. I suppose my only question would be who makes the coil.

The module is good stuff....Ive fitted 2 now and no issues.

Your problem could also be a duff condensor, which this would solve too. Then you would have a spare coil as well.

Jonners

My thinking exactly - one of these on the way, will let you all know how I get on! Might improve my fuel economy too!

I'm told 'Lucas Gold' coils are not made by Lucas, but made under licence from Lucas.