The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Thanks Jonners

Should have added its a good idea to get the fluid all out via the nearest caliper bleed screw and then prise
off the reservoir with the cylinder still all in place with pipes connected. Once the reservoir is off
access to the pipes is much improved and the risk of rounding off unions is greatly reduced.

You can get stronger "purchase" on the reservoir with it all held in firmly too. Do one mounting at a time with
2 large flat pry bars.

You can do the same when refitting. With new rubber seals and a bit of red rubber grease they go back in a lot more
easilly.

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.

Thanks for the input Jonners, it will serve me well when I come to doing it. Yesterday I removed the rear load sensing valve. Couple of questions on this one too; the piston which protrudes from the rubber dust cover seems to be siezed. Even putting pressure on it in the vice doesn't move it, tho I don't wish to be to heavy handed with it. If I remove the large flat nut which seems to retain it, what can I expect to happen? An explosion of springs and ball bearing? I currently have left the valve under some compression in the vice with plenty of wd40 to soak in.

Thanks

David

Bizarrely I have never done one of these.....

Have a look at the parts book and I think repair kits are a club item.

Lets hope somebody who has done one can fill us all in...

Jonners

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Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.

Yes I see the club stocks the seal kit. I will probably order both seal kits, one for the load sensing valve and one for the brake master cylinder within the next week or so. In the meantime before I deal with the issue of the seat diaphragm I will clean up and paint both front seat frames and runners.

David

David, especially for you I dismantled an LSV.



Remove the grub screw...



Then you can remove the pin next to the coil and the coil itself.



The shaft wasn't easy to get out and I had to use the vise as a press to get it out. I usually don't bother doing this bit, I just bend the bracket back and remove the LSV assembly (which is what I ended up doing any way). Whilst hitting the pin I missed and hit the cast lug and snapped it off. I think I have a spare somewhere.


I used a 32mm. socket to undo the assembly.



Once undone the assembly won't fly out as the seal will hold it, you will need to jiggle it to get it out.





Remove the spring (noting that the thinner end is towards the bottom). Then jiggle the main assembly to remove. Another seal holding this one.



There is a seal in the top piece under the nylon retainer. Both of these push out with the aid of a small screw driver (use something blunt if you are going to reuse the seal.



There are 5 seals to replace including the dust cover. You'll find the fifth one up under the main assembly, a very small 'O' ring.



Plenty of seals kits in club stock.

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years.

2007 Porsche Boxster S




Grammar:
The difference between knowing your sh#t and knowing you're sh#t.

Schedule: Pronounced "Shedule" not "Skedule"!

Mart you are a saint. Great photos and greatly appreciated!! Your step.by step guide has given me the confidence to carry out this procedure with confidence. I hadn't even noticed the grub screw! Thanks again.

David

Are all the rubbers available from the club including the ones in the spring mechanism that attaches to the axle?

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Trevor

75 Sprint in Magenta called GunGaDiN GGD944N
2008 X-type 2.0D SE

No, all but the axle rubber.

_________________
Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years.

2007 Porsche Boxster S




Grammar:
The difference between knowing your sh#t and knowing you're sh#t.

Schedule: Pronounced "Shedule" not "Skedule"!

Ordered a seal kit for the load sensing valve yesterday and partially stripped it down ,following Marts' photos. Looks straight forward enough. Unfortunately the club doesn't have in stock the seal kit for the single line brake master cylinder, so I may have to source a recon m/c? Jonners I will pm you regarding the one you have available.

Cheers

David

We have reconditioned master cylinders complete, resleeved in stainless steel, but they are £87.50 on an exchange basis for a single line one.

Or £125 from Rimmer, not stainless, and £60 surcharge.
I'm not knocking Rimmer Bros, they have the parts, and that's great.
In this instance, join the club.

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White Dolomite 1850 HWM 572P

Bill.

Bill I'm sure iv mentioned somewhere before that I am already a club member and have been for several years already. I don't know why it doesn't say that in the side column??
Xvivalve, I forgot to mention that information in my last post about the club having reconditioned ones. Didn't realise they were resleeved in stainless steel. Quite prepared to pay that price however I might have to wait a few weeks to work it into my budget.

David

You did David, several times, sorry.
PM admin, he will sort out the forum status.

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White Dolomite 1850 HWM 572P

Bill.

"triumphdolomiteuk" is the forum admin and is our very own Andy P.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA
1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - The rolling restoration)
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Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com

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