The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

On my v8 spitfire I used some discs that I got from rally design. They are 12mm bigger in diameter but would they work do you think? Th ey are great discs and stop every time even when very fast roading it. If the diameter won't fit the calipers, then could I turn them down before they get hot to much?
Some people I can hear shouting greenstuff. I've haven't heard a good story about them face to face but several bad ones as well as the silly price. Thoughts please.

Using any different part will mean experimentation and modification. The standard set up has both a small disc and small pad size. Braking creates a lot of heat so that needs to be dispersed so if you brake a lot / hard you are better off with a bigger disc area AND a bigger pad area to have any real effect. There are a number of conversions around, depending on what you want to achieve. The Sierra conversion widely used amongst club members is available with all of the conversion bits fabricated, all you have to do is find calipers etc and bolt it all together. That is probably your best option. Also flush your fluid with new every two years or it can boil as it absorbs moisture over time.

I still use a standard set up on my road car and substitute with EBC yellow pads if I want to use the car for some public road event with a lot of hard braking. Personally I have always found the standard set up quite adequate. Use that on the track and you will likely set the pads on fire and boil the fluid.

On the race car I use BMW vented rotors, Willwood 4 pot claipers and Ferodo DS3000 pads. They will only then fit under 14 in wheels and require modification to the hubs. I then have to warm the pads and the race tyres up for the set up to actually work. This also needs a high boiling point brake fluid (I use a Motul one). That setup would be useless for even the hardest road use.

Geoff

gmsclassics wrote:Using any different part will mean experimentation and modification. The standard set up has both a small disc and small pad size. Braking creates a lot of heat so that needs to be dispersed so if you brake a lot / hard you are better off with a bigger disc area AND a bigger pad area to have any real effect. There are a number of conversions around, depending on what you want to achieve. The Sierra conversion widely used amongst club members is available with all of the conversion bits fabricated, all you have to do is find calipers etc and bolt it all together. That is probably your best option. Also flush your fluid with new every two years or it can boil as it absorbs moisture over time.

I still use a standard set up on my road car and substitute with EBC yellow pads if I want to use the car for some public road event with a lot of hard braking. Personally I have always found the standard set up quite adequate. Use that on the track and you will likely set the pads on fire and boil the fluid.

On the race car I use BMW vented rotors, Willwood 4 pot claipers and Ferodo DS3000 pads. They will only then fit under 14 in wheels and require modification to the hubs. I then have to warm the pads and the race tyres up for the set up to actually work. This also needs a high boiling point brake fluid (I use a Motul one). That setup would be useless for even the hardest road use.

Geoff

how do you warm them? and how long do you leave it until putting them in and going out?

just an intruiged party here

You brake a few times very hard and then the pads are warm and are then at their best till they cool down again.

Jeroen

soe8m wrote:You brake a few times very hard and then the pads are warm and are then at their best till they cool down again.

Jeroen

ah, a possible misunderstanding. the way i read the post intially made me think he warmed the pads and discs up BEFORE he went out on the circuit.

now i realise that is incorrect