The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

My TR7 Sprint is running fine and she's really loosening up now that she's got about 150 miles on her.

But the clutch is absolutely driving me crazy.

I used a new QH clutch since Borg & Beck folded in 2005.

I can't tell if I have a hydraulic problem or if it is the clutch.

When the car is cold, it shift OK, but the clutch takes up right as the pedal leave the floor. When the car is warm, it because impossible to shift, and she'll creep forward in first gear with the clutch in.

I have rebuilt both master and slave and the hydraulics feel fine. The interior of both cylinders is perfect, no scratched or other marks.
I've bled the damn thing numerous times and I positive there's no air in the system.

What could be wrong here?

Richard Truett

Richard

Frustrating things aren't they but we keep coming back for more. I don't have any experience of TR7's but can you get to the clutch lever. If so try and see if there is more movement possible with a lever when someone depresses the clutch. It sounds like you are not getting full movement and this may be due to the hydraulics. Check the location of the slave cylinder as well. Mine was slightly loose and was bending as i depressed the clutch stopping full movement.

Good luck

Mike

Richard,

My TR7 did this years ago and it turned out to be aworn release bearing. Did you change the bearing??

A useful upgrade to the TR7 if you change the clutch is to fit the complete clutch from a Sherpa 2.0 litre van - they fit straight in and are heavier duty, though there is a barely detectable additional effort at the pedal.

If yours is as mine was, the clutch will be quite heavy now with the creep problem and you would find much reduced effort at the pedal by comparison once the Sherpa unit is fitted.

Thankfully the gearbox comes out on a 7 on its own rather easier than does a Dolly unit.

I hope this helps.

Martin:

I fitted a complete new clutch set, disc, cover and bearing. But I notice now there is just one clutch available for all TR7s. There used to be one for the TR7 4-speed and another one for the TR7 5-speed.

We didn't get the Sherpa van over here, but if I have to take the gearbox out, I will take your advice and use a Sherpa clutch kit.

I think I have a hydraulic problem, such as fluid getting past the seal in the clutch master cylinder. That would cause the problem I am experiencing.

Gearbox out only as a last resort...

RT

Misaligned friction plate?

Could be a hose expanding. If there are any plastic pipes that pass near the engine/exhaust this will only happen when they get hot. If so, swap it for a braided hose.

I must say I'm not familiar with the TR7 setup, but it's a known problem on Scimitars (my other ride)

In an effort to avoid taking out the gerbox, I've ordered a new clutch master cylinder, new slave cylinder and a braided hose.

hopefully that will solve the problem. But a stockist here in the USA told me yesterday that QH clutches are garbage and that he doesn't sell them.

I've seen ads for a new brand of clutch called Coventry Classic Clutches.

Does anyone have experience with this brand?

Cheers,
Richard

Canley Classics sell them, it might be worth asking them.

http://www.canleyclassics.com

QH clutches are garbage

I'll second that emotion!

As a niaive youngster (on a budget) I saved about £15 by fitting one to my TR6. Literally, the friction plate fell apart! I'd now fit a refaced item before I used QH again.

Borg and Beck always were the clutch manufacturer of choice.

Try these people:

http://www.rhleech.co.uk/clutches.htm

Richard, been watching your efforts on getting the TR7 sprint running. I have a triumph club on Vancouver Island running a TR7 wants to fit a sprint motor any suggestions on how to proceed.
We just took a boys run 750 miles on the weekend took my TR4 as all the cars are convertibles.
Hope all works out with the TR7 soon.
Denis

Turns out there was nothing wrong with that QH clutch that $300 worth of parts couldn't put right.

I installed a new County brand clutch master cylinder, TRW brand slave cylinder and a braided hose.

Now I have a perfect clutch.

I also fiddled with the carb needles and timing and WOW...it's like I have two more cylinders. So, the TR7 Sprint is coming along nicely now.

In regards to building a Sprint engine here in North America, I would do what I did: start with the guts of a TR7 engine, and then buy parts off ebay and from TDC members.

I would buy a known good head and valve gear from a TDC member, pistons, too, buy a vernier gear from Sprint Parts in Australia, and then have a good machine shop balance the rotating parts.

Do that and you will have a very nice engine. I've spent about $5,000 building my motor, but I used new .40 pistons, a new STR091 cam, HS8s, and had the head ported, plus I replaced the entire valve train with new parts.

So, it could be done for less.

Richard Truett