The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hi, when driving my 1300 i have to constantly steer right, it has new suspension bushes throughout, i've had to put quite a few shims behind the fulcrum frames to reduce the negative camber, and have set the tracking with a tracking gauge. I thought at first that i hadn't centred the steering wheel, but i've adjusted it and it made no difference. Has anybody got any ideas?

Tyre pressures, track rod ends, steering rack bushes, bulkhead bush?

Did you replace the subframe bushes?

Hi this is the list of things replaced....

new subframe bushes
new old stock steering rack
new rack bushes
new track rod ends
new bulkhead bush
new suspension bushes
new bottom steering knuckle
replacement fulcrum frames

after a full rebuild of the car its done just over 900 miles, all of them steering to the right.....

the only thing that i haven't changed is the top steering joint - but there isn't a huge amount of play in it

and when i dropped the subframe it was cracked on the front crossmember under the engine - so i had to clamp it and weld it back together - could this cause enough distortion to affect the position of the tie bars?

before i did all the above the car used to wander left right left right from a standing start but once in second gear and moving it drove straight and didn't need constant correction.

What have i done?????

The subframe could be the issue, the reason I mentioned it is that it is known for people to tighten up all the bolts whilst the car is in the air causing the subframe to be not sit perfectly straight especially if the mounting holes in the subframe are slightly elongated or even using the wrong bushes. did the front subframe mounting plates go back in okay.
Do you have a 1300FWD manual to compare what bushes and mountings you should have?

When you refitted the steering rack did you replace small plates between the rack and frame as these allow the rack to locate correctly, if both or one are missing the rack will not sit in the correct place?

What condition are the tyres in, try swapping them left for right.
Also worth checking the rear wheel alinement

thanks for the suggestions, the subframe went back in the same position as when it came off - mainly because the rear bolts were solid in the chassis legs and wouldn't come out... there were no issues at all putting it back on

the tyres are new, well they've done 900 miles but i'll try swapping them

i didn't think of checking the rear end - i just assumed that as it drove straight before i overhauled the front end that i've disturbed something

if all that doesn't work i'll just have to get used to steering right.....

You need to get to the bottom of this problem. It will become irritating (if it hasn't already) then it will become dangerous.

Another thing you need to check: Did you get the front wheels balanced when you had the tyres fitted? This would normally manifest itself with the steering vibrating at a certain speed but it is something else you need to eliminate. Getting the tracking checked would be a wise idea having changed the track rod ends.

I can supply you with a PDF copy of the parts catalogue if you need it.

Hang on, basics first, has it been tracked, and if so to what settings?
was everything tightened up after the car settled?

Brakes aren't seized?????

Hi, i've checked all the obvious stuff - i've tracked it myself as i own a dunlop tracking set - i've slightly increased the toe out this afternoon it's now at 20 mins toe out - approx 3/32" i had set it to 1/16" - the camber is now approx 1 deg neg both sides with slightly more negative on the passenger side than the drivers side but only slightly - i've re-checked today and the brakes are not binding and the tyres are at the same pressure

When i got it the toe out was just over 1/8" and it had more negative camber - think spitfire with a knackered rear spring and you're there, every bush was worn and it felt it, but it drove straight

I've been told the caster angle could be different from one side to the other but from what i can see there's no easy way to adjust the tie bars and I'm not convinced that it would make that much difference - what do you think? It doesn't want to hurl itself onto the pavement if you let go of the wheel it just gently flows towards the kerb...