The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Guy

The clutch could do with renewing on my sprint - slight juddering when moving off, there no slipping etc once I get going and I have a slight oil leak from the rear crank seal with is coming out of the drain hole in the bell housing.

I don't know whether to remove the engine & gearbox or just the engine - reviewing Marks (MWV) thread looked a pain in the bum removing the job lot, Martins way with (HPR) seemed a lot easier and suggestions which way I should go - or do I send it to a garage and let them have the headache - but the question is "Who do you trust" to do the work correctly

Regards
Paul

From my experience of doing it both ways....
it is definitely easier to remove/refit engine and gearbox together.


If you go for the option of gearbox only it is easy enough to remove but.....
refitting is a different story.
You have to disconnect the steering and drop the back of the subframe prior to removal/refitting.
Weighing over 40 kg a Sprint o/d gearbox takes a lot of effort to manoeuvre, the bell housing has to go over the
subframe and under the bodyshell bulkhead. I made a cradle to fit onto a trolley jack to make it a little easier,
having used it I have thought of a way to improve it.

It would benefit from parallel bars on each side because these would the gearbox to be slid into place (instead of trying to
push or pull the whole trolley jack).



As an aside, I took Jeroen's advice and fitted the lightweight version Saab 900 clutch cover, which is about 3kg lighter than a standard Sprint item,
onto my 1850. There is a noticeable improvement in engine responsiveness.

When your gearbox is out I recommend you look closely at the clutch operating system. There is plenty to wear there.
All parts are available from Chris Witor.




Ian.

PS I am thinking you'd be somewhat cheaper buying an engine crane than getting a clutch changed professionally?

Take the whole assembly out but I wouldn't bother with a tilter as it robs you of too much height. Make use of a gradient and lower the front of the car right down to get the maximum angle. You'll pull some silly angles but it looks more complex than it is. It took us a morning to remove the engine from my shell, albeit everything was already loose and the carbs etc were removed.

My other tip would be to use an engine crane that is on a screw rather than hydraulic as it's easy to lower things too quickly and damage things. Mine didn't matter coming out but going back in is another story.

I would just remove the engine and leave the box in.
Once all the pipes and plugs etc are removed its time to attach the hoist and remove both engine mounts this enables you to get easily at the various bolts that hold box to engine and unbolts that pesky exhaust manifold.

However the real easy way is to unbolt the subframe and brake pipes and lift the car off the whole assembly.

Personally I would choose the former.

Best done with a crane. Jacking the back end up also helps with the angles but it really isnt too bad. The angles only look silly to the onlooker. They dont do
any harm...

While its all out you can do a proper job on the downpipe flange, get it all nice and clean and sort all your leaks and clean up the underbonnet.
Good time to fit poly rack bushes as well.

Maybe easier out than in slightly? I can do it in about 2 and a half hours now having done a few,

The sub frame drop method is okay but you have to get the car pretty high to clear and have some fancy way of rolling it about....and then the car is stuck with no wheels too.

I only do it like that if the car needs chassis rail surgery now.

Jonners

Thx's for all the replies - going to purchase a engine hoist and pull just the engine out.

Regards
paul

sprint95m wrote:As an aside, I took Jeroen's advice and fitted the lightweight version Saab 900 clutch cover, which is about 3kg lighter than a standard Sprint item,
onto my 1850. There is a noticeable improvement in engine responsiveness.

Ian/Jeroen, any chance to share the part number of the SAAB 900 clutch cover with us?

Did you just use the Saab cover with a Triumph plate and release bearing?


Thanks in advance!

Of course,

LuK 122 0035 10




It is a direct replacement so you use the normal release bearing and clutch plate.
The weight is 5kg, some 3kg less than the original .




Jeroen kindly gave me details of this firm in Berlin, http://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/luk-966071.html
service was quick and efficient.



Ian.

When pulling the engine and leaving the box in the car, does the exhaust downpipe clear on the way out or does it have to be removed first?

Tony

If you are pulling the engine from the car anyway why not take the box out with it?

The downpipe flange is often a nightmare of stuck and inaccessible bolts. Getting the downpipe past the box still attached isn't that easy.
Swing the whole lot out and seperate the exhaust at the bottom of the downpipe and its all a lot easier.

Yes you have to fiddle about with the gearbox cross member and mounting but the dowmpipe wins and the rejoining of input shaft to clutch
is so much easier. Sometimes lining them up with the box in the car can go badly...

So I always do them both out now...bell housing bots are a lot easier too. Its easy to miss one by the oil transfer housing.

Also recommend taking the heater off. Its only 3 bolts and 2 spring clips on the cables.

Jonners

Its actually the other way round for me. The box is ready to be fitted but the engine isnt yet. I was just thinking of getting parts out of the way where I can so what I'd really like is to fit the box and get the underside done and lower the engine afterwards once ready. I would like the downpipe to be fitted to the engine on fitting so if it will clear the box without too much of a fight I'd like to try that. My engine bay has been repainted and I'm a bit worried about paint getting damaged which ever way I go.

Cheers

Tony

Thanks for this. I probably need to replace my clutch too, this will save me some weight!

sprint95m wrote:Of course,

LuK 122 0035 10




It is a direct replacement so you use the normal release bearing and clutch plate.
The weight is 5kg, some 3kg less than the original .




Jeroen kindly gave me details of this firm in Berlin, http://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/luk-966071.html
service was quick and efficient.



Ian.

Fit the downpipe at the gearbox end loosely before you fit the engine. Use studs on the top 2 manifold positions and a new and clean bolt on the lowest. You can try a stud on the bottom too but its a bit hard to get clearance fitting the downpipe over the bottom stud. With all new easy turning bits its not too bad.

Use a stud on the gearbox exhaust bracket lower fitting too. It stops oil leaking later.

Jonners

I separate it after the downpipe and then leave it alone. They come out and drop in fine if you get it right and you have someone to aid it in the right direction. I don't get on with those stupid downpipe flanges.

Quick update - engine out - the slight judder was down to some cover plate splines + slightly twisted clutch plate



From the pictures it looks the spline are not straight - following day the splines were straight




Flywheel feels ok - no grooves etc - slight tarnishing - this will polish out with a scotch brite pad or some 1000 grit wet and dry.


The clutch plate has a rattle and the metal shims between the two plates are buckled.



Apart from that everything looks fine





I have a new crank seal + gasket to fit during the rebuild

Regards
Paul