It's not often........

[Carledo]

That I get stumped by a car, but this has me tearing my hair out!
Its an 03 Civic Type R, all stock and original and the problem is massive overfuelling , especially at low revs/idle. The situation is so bad that if you put in new plugs, run it for 10 mins then switch off, it will not restart cos the cylinders are all flooded!
I've had the diagnostic on it, there are no codes coming up at all and the management light is out. I've also changed out the fuel pressure regulator valve for a new one, to no avail whatsoever.

ANYONE GOT ANY IDEAS?????

Steve

[Dolly-Nut]

Temperature sensor causing it to stick on 'choke' mode? Faulty MAP/MAF sensor? Disconnect each and see what occurs.

[Jod Clark]

Lambda sensor readings?

[tony g]

return fuel pipe to tank crimped maybe?

Tony

[matt of the vivas]

Look at the live data on your code reader and see what the engine "thinks" its coolant temperature is, compared to what it actually is. Engine Temp Sensor would be my guess, but the live data will confirm it. This wont flag a code either normally as the ECU believes it is responding correctly to the conditions.
Only other thing i can think is a dirty / faulty injector thats dribbling - but this would normally only affect 1 cylinder, not all 4, and flag a "fuel trim" code.
Matt.

[wiggybum]

Quick search on the internerd has a few suggestions. This forum thinks it's the O2 sensor:

http://www.ek9.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48193

Several owners concur that if this is duff, the symptoms you describe will happen. The owner eventually states it's a defective cam which i am struggling to undertand how that connects with the fuelling.Anyway, start with the O2/lambda sensor before you waste any more fuell struggling.

[Carledo]

I'll try the live data thing, whilst my somewhat limited diagnostic won't show me what the readings should be, I can compare with what the car says. Disconnecting the MAF brings the management light on and upsets the running even further so I guess it's probably OK.
I also know a man with a more sophisticated diagnostic which DOES say what the values should be so I'll see if I can get him to have a go.
I too have had cams mentioned from another source though it was timing error this time. I can't understand how this could cause my problem either!
Oh and Tony, nice idea, but it doesn't have a fuel return pipe, the pressure reg is in the tank!
Thanks for all the help so far, I'll keep you all up to date on what happens!

Steve

[Jod Clark]

Output from lambda sensor should fluctuate between 0.1 and 0.8-ish volts. It sounds to me much like a Rover 25 1.4 I had in a while back that used a quarter tank of fuel to do a two mile journey. My goodness did that thing shift with the throttle floored. There were no fault codes showing on that car.

If the lambda sensor reads zero volts it is broken. If the sensor reads zero volts then the engine management interprets this a 'mixture too lean' and just keeps richening the mixture until it either gets a rich>lean>rich transition from the sensor or it hits the upper limit of the fuel trim or the injectors are just held constantly open, which sounds exactly the trouble you're having.

[Carledo]

Not been back today cos i've had too much else on. I kinda need to get this right cos it's already cost him £38 for the pressure reg (I didn't charge him for fitting it) The lambda sensor is £197 from Honda though I gather a Bosch substitute is available for considerably less and the coolant temp sender is £52 (Honda only) Even the irridium NGK plugs are £52 a set!
Thanks for the figures Jod, i'll see what it says when I get back to it sometime tomorrow.

Steve

[Carledo]

Lambda readings are around 0.975v for the 1st and 1.2v for the second, is this too high? for some reason (probably my cheap microscanner) it didn't want to offer me live coolant temp readings though i've had them in other cars, notably a Chrysler 300C just a couple of days ago!
I'm not convinced yet, think I need to get the guy with the Solus on it..... Or Jod!

Steve