The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils- ... 27e3545060

Well, it might be a waste of cash, but I've ordered the above to see if it cures the low oil pressure when the engine is hot.
If this doesn't do it, oil pump, and if that doesn't do it.......... If the weather is fine, we'll find out at the weekend.

I think I would be looking at the pump first. What is the pressure at idle and on the move ?

80Sprint wrote:I think I would be looking at the pump first. What is the pressure at idle and on the move ?

This from July last year:

"My 1850 was having oil pressure problems at idle when hot, the gauge read 4psi at idle and 20 at revs. Millers 20W50 and a filter change, the gauge reads 20 psi at idle and 40 at revs. No more oil light flickering on."

Try another gauge. They are often unreliable.

Jonners

20w60 in, that stuff stinks!
Found an oil leak when changing the filter, hard to see where it's coming from, seems to be the oil pump housing or thereabouts. It's dripping directly onto the steering rack gaiter.

That oil is excellent. On my 1500 I had "normal" 20/50 dropping to oil light on when on track. At 5000rpm.....that was an almost fresh grind (10k?) and vandervell bearings

A crank swap, and VR1 was better, but the CSS was better again, holding about 40psi under the same circumstances. That was an "unknown mileage but looks OK" crank, and King HD bearings.

Fitting a cooler was another step up....


But agree, oil pressure gauges not really precision, and most useful for noting changes in oil pressure. Never lose the light on the dash either.....

In my experience a healthy slant at idle/750rpm should be around 35psi topping out around 60.

Is semi-synthetic okay in our engines?

Full synthetic is the best but can only be used in "clean" engines. Engines what are overhauled etc. Synthetic oil does clean better than the mineral and does solve all the mineral residu's what has been build up by the years and then cloggs the oilway's with it. But if your's is clean then synthetic is the best choice.

Jeroen

And remember the range, and quality of synthetics and semi synthetics is huge.

Asda synthetic for £15 a gallon will not be the same as a proper ester based synthetic like Mobil 1 or similar.

I have been tempted by some of th oil specced for beemer M engines and other high performance stuff. Tends to be 10 60, but usually eye wateringly expenseive. But if some turned up for reasonable money I may just give it a try...(once the toledo actually starts and runs....)

I'd definitely recommend either of the Millers Classic oils. I used the 20w50 on the 1850's last oil change. It is definitely worth spending that bit more on a decent quality engine oil.

Modern synthetics however don't seem to contain that ZDDP stuff everyone goes on about? Anyone know and more about the necessities of it?

Only needed in push rod engines like the 1300,1500 and 6 cilinders, old v8's and old volvo's

And that can be sorted. ZDDPlus..........

Well the hottest day of the year, 30 minutes in stop-start driving and the oil light still comes on if I drop the revs to 600 or so when balancing the clutch.
Time for a new oil pump or one of those refurb kits.
If that doesn't do it..........