Drop glass rubber seal

[Graham.Fountain]

I've been looking in the ROM, and I can't find where it shows the door drop glass seal replacement, neither front nor rear. Does anyone know where it is, or if it isn't got any help on replacing?

Also, does anyone have any comments on Chris Wittor's "Drop Glass Channel Remanufactured as original for correct fit. Replacement for OE: 613846/7/8/9; 617188/9 & 617190/1. 2.1 metre length - enough for one door"?

Graham.

[Edin Dundee]

I used the Chris Witor item, very happy with it.
Not an easy job......

[Jon Tilson]

You just pull the old one off and the clips that hold it will either fall off into the door bottom, break in half as they are rusty or tentatively
stay in place.

This is a mare of a job. You need to make a pull up tool to pull the (preferably new) clips back up so they go over the door flange and the rubber too.
They will also nicely scratch your new paint and start rust for the coming years, so smear a bit of copaslip on the new clips.

You will also notice the window doesnt drop far enough to give good access once you have made a hook tool. You can drop it further if you take off the window winder and a support bracket.

Jonners

[Edin Dundee]

Jon - not the outer rubber strip, the channel the glass sits in.

[Graham.Fountain]

Jon, That's a bit further down the to do list, probably with the re-spray. But I assume its the same as on the 7. As I remember, it's only a problem with the glass still in. I'm sure I never bought/made one of them thar tools, and I know I've rebuilt a few TR7 doors from scratch (so to speak): the genuine TR7 Sprint, VVC 697S, and a fake one, A TR7 16V the second were both bare-metal re-sprays.

I expect this job's the same too - both as the 7 and w.r.t. the glass - only on the FHC of course, the DHC drop glass "seals" (to use that word quite wrongly) against the hood, and there's only a pair of straight bits, a long one behind the quarter light and a short one in the back of the door carcase, which are right little buggers to do with the glass in.

But the doly's drop glass seals are knackered, and need doing soonish, and I don't remember doing a fixed head door with the glass in: don't actually remember doing one with the glass out, but that may just be the dementia. I thought maybe I'd missed where it is in the BL ROM (maybe I should look in the Haynes manual - LOL). Mind you, even if it is in the ROM, it probably says "take the glass out first, dummy".

So I was hoping to get some tips on the job with the glass still in the door, and some comment on Chris Witor's bits (thanks Bill).

Graham

I got some animal crackers t'other day. And it said on the pack "Do not eat if the seal is broken".

[Carledo]

I would guess that the Witor quantity of 2.1 m is sufficient to do a T 2000 door being nearly 7 foot! I would guess that would also do a Dolly door which is not much (if any) smaller. It is possible to replace these without removing the glass but you do need to take off the doorcard and the rear glass channel inside the door, this will give you enough slack in the glass to slide the (lubricated) front strip into position, followed by the top strip and finally the rear one, then replace channel and door card and repeat for the other doors. Don't forget to cut a 45 degree angle on the top corners!

Steve

[Graham.Fountain]

slide the (lubricated) front strip into position, followed by the top strip and finally the rear one.

Ah, now that is interesting. The ones on the FHC 7 are one piece (at least, they are when I do 'em) so I never looked at the car, just went to the ROM and found nowt. And now I do, it's just the top part that's gone, so I should get away with just replacing those – I'll go measure, but 2.1 meters might be enough for all. Mind you, the front and back parts aren't chamfered, and they don't get within an inch of the top. But it'll be much better for doing the tops. Maybe I can fill in where the front and back bits don't reach if there's enough.

But how's the top part held in?

Graham.

[Carledo]

The strips are all just wedged in and if your front and rear strips have "dropped" down the door, just hook the top out and pull them back up into place! Mine drop at about 1" per month, more in the summer when the windows are being raised and lowered more frequently! Nothing but friction holds them in and when they get old this is what happens! New ones would probably solve it for 20 years or so!

Steve

[Jon Tilson]

Oh sorry you mean the sliding seal or the top seal in the door...

As Carledo says these are just a push fit in the grooves. I think the early cars had them riveted to the rails at the bottom? Stag ones are
IIRC.

Jonners

[GrahamFountain]

Thanks for that. I'll go order a length and get started.

Next job is finding a herald 13/60 drivers door, but that's for another forum I guess.

Graham

[Carledo]

Thanks for that. I'll go order a length and get started.

Next job is finding a herald 13/60 drivers door, but that's for another forum I guess.

Graham

I just let a good herald drivers door go with the Vitesse project I sold a couple of weeks ago. Sorry it was my last one!

Steve

[PaulB]

The Dolomite drop glass seal is the same profile as Stag. The proper OE type has been unavailable for years until recently. It has been remanufactured to the correct OE spec by ( I think) Robsport, but I think he is supplying other Triumph suppliers as well.

I bought the CW3906D product from Chris recently and was very happy with it. The 2.1M length is just enought to do a front door. I guess the rear door probably need a slightly shorter lenght.

[GrahamFountain]

I just let a good herald drivers door go with the Vitesse project I sold a couple of weeks ago. Sorry it was my last one!
Steve

Oh bother. Bid on a rotten one last week - skin okay, but carcase rotted and held on with angle strip. Went for over 60 quid!