The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Just fitting the rack etc. and as I am using Jigsaw's solid rack mounts I have no reference as to where it goes from side to side.

Questions!

Firstly, would someone have a picture of where the pinion goes in relation to the raised up portion as at the moment, using the Witor UJ, it is sat right on it, in interference , which can't be right?

Secondly, using the Witor's 2500 UJ, am I correct in thinking that the shaft attached to the steering column needs shortening as the 2500 UJ is longer and that the body work may need nibbling away to fit it in?

Thirdly, can't get the pinion side u bolt in from the top because of the oil pump....many moons ago I had a solid rack kit from Jamie at sprintspares which used bolts up from the bottom and was far superior, it even located the rack I think...anyone got any dimensional details of these blocks so I can get some made or even have a set or a supplier if they're still made?

Fun, fun, fun!

The way to do all this is as follows....

1 before the engine is in place....

2 using parts as near as possible to std.

So that means a solid rack mount on the nearside only if you have to. Poly on both is good enough for me.
Then use a poly one on the drivers side. Notice how much easier it all is with no engine...lol.

Then you want o either have a redone flex coupling with poly bits with the standard intermediate shaft. If you have to have a double u/j effort then you may need to trim it a liitle. There has to be enough sliding splines movement to fit it when its all in place rack wise, else it will be a serious mare of a job to do the column bush later or even fit the column at all.

Do it right and you only need do it once...

Jonners

Super Flex bushes are the ones to get...

If you have to swap them with the engine in situ it will need raising up so you have enough room to change the bushes. I tried it and could only fit the nearside bush. In the end it didn't matter because the subframe had to come off for the offside mounts to be repaired.

I have the solid rack mount from Jamie but im afraid it's fitted so taking any dimensions is not possible, also ( as you know if you had one fitted ) he recommended that the solid mount was fitted on the offside due to a more positive feel where the rack is next to the steering coupling and not the nearside where the benefits in feel would be negligible

Hmm....engine out be happening any time soon!

Cheers Mahony et al, good advice thanks!

Will get a polybush for the offside then.....from Witor's? and retain the solid for the nearside.

Are the bolts in the UJ's to be tightened so nothing will slide or am I to allow movement?....Actually, just reread that Jonners, I guess trim everything to suit and tighten when it fits.....



Whilst I'm on, the std u bolt mtg that carries the rubber has a slot that is cunningly the same size as the vertical tabs on the rack; I take it these do not slot in to the tab and the rubber buts up, looking from the front of the car, on the right of the tab and the left of the rubber? Meaning if two std u bolts were fitted the rubber was outer most and not pointing inwards when fitted......

Pinch bolts through the grooves stop it all coming apart for dis assembly.
Then there is one on a slidey bit with a widened flat section for adjustment and to help removal. Tighten them all
when in place. Bit of copaslip on the splines will help next time it has to come off. Dont overtighten the pinch bolts
and use new self locking nuts.

Jonners

shaunroche wrote:Firstly, would someone have a picture of where the pinion goes in relation to the raised up portion as at the moment, using the Witor UJ, it is sat right on it, in interference , which can't be right?

Secondly, using the Witor's 2500 UJ, am I correct in thinking that the shaft attached to the steering column needs shortening as the 2500 UJ is longer and that the body work may need nibbling away to fit it in?

Thirdly, can't get the pinion side u bolt in from the top because of the oil pump....many moons ago I had a solid rack kit from Jamie at sprintspares which used bolts up from the bottom and was far superior, it even located the rack I think...anyone got any dimensional details of these blocks so I can get some made or even have a set or a supplier if they're still made?

Fun, fun, fun!

I'll answer Q1 and Q2 together if I may.
The lower joint should be in a straight position all the time........you can check by turning the steering. The intermediate shaft will need to shortened a little (carefully use
a hacksaw and then file off any sharp edges).
Assemble everything finger tight only at first. Once you are happy with the positioning, tighten the rack first and then the lower UJ/intermediate shaft pinch bolts.
(I suspect that whether the body needs altering to allow the UJ to turn freely varies from car to car?)

Q3: Unfortunately the engine needs to come off its mounts. A jack (via a wooden block) under the sump will do.
This is the case for whichever type of mount you decide to employ.



Ian.

Cheers Ian....I've ordered some poly bushes do I can do the nearside plus a spare and some bolts and nuts.

Tonight I cut about 10mm off the intermediate shaft and this seems to have helped a great deal...when the bushes come I'll pop one on and this will put the rack in to the correct place and then I'll see if I need to chop a bit of body work off.....I realise I'm asking a lot of simple questions but I just wanted to be sure before I started hacking bits off!