What do we think of "no gas" MIG welders then?

[matienzo]

Mulling over the idea of buying a MIG welder suitable for car and light DIY fabrication work.
I came across the "no gas" MIG type when browsing and hadn't heard of them before. I like the idea of them apparently being better for outdoor use but has anyone got any experience with them?

Thoughts anyone?

Cheers
Steve

[cliftyhanger]

I have plenty. Well, in a DIY way.

They have the advantage of no bottles, and as you point out better for windy days. They are also better at coping with welding metal that is not as clean as you would like (ie awkward bits under a triumph)
Downsides, welds are not as neat (not a lot in it for an equal machine) and they get white deposits over the welded area that needs wire brushing off. Welding wire is more expensive, probably works out similar costs to "normal" wire plus gas. I buy mine in the 1lb reels, off ebay but in packs of ten.

Be aware the different welders out there. Of teh DIY end Clarke seems to be about the best, SIP are a PITA and I suspect the cheaper ones have issues as well.

Lots more info on the mig welding forum........

[Carledo]

Personally I wouldn't touch one with a 10ft pole!
Spend the same amount of money on a good used commercial MiG something with at least 140 amps on tap and preferably a good name brand.
I bought my current welder (a Murex tradesmig 140) second hand off my local Snap On rep for £180 - 25 years ago! apart from a new lance and a couple of ferrule replacements its still as bought and has never let me down! Gas is now much easier and cheaper to get than it used to be too! Just don't get an account with BOC, they're the biggest robbers this side of Lincoln!

Steve

[Pippin]

It might be worth asking the same question on a welding-specific forum, such as:
www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum

[cleverusername]

I have one and I have managed to weld the car up, even butt welding body work. I have no experience with a proper MIG, but I doubt they can be as hard to use.

You have two basic problems, the first is you are effectively welding blind. All the crap the flux throws up from the welding wire makes it difficult to see the weld pool.

The second problem is the sweet spot between blowing holes and creating a weak useless weld is narrow. It takes alot of practice to set it up properly and get the torch movement/speed just right to the get a good weld.

Saying that they do work if you practice enough.

[matienzo]

Thanks..that's a detailed answer that gives me good information from which to make a decision.

[cleverusername]

Thanks..that's a detailed answer that gives me good information from which to make a decision.

One thing I would say is avoid the really cheap models. I have a Clarke's 105, and it is probably the cheapest you can get away with. You need one which goes down to 25-30 amps for car bodywork. Plus the wire feeds on the cheap welders have a poor reputation.

Best do as the post above recommends and look at the welding forum. For example in the Clarke's range some are the better quality older designs that I think were made in Italy, but there is also some newer Chinese tat in the range.