The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

can anyone tell me where the clutch pedal should start to bite,mine bites as soon as you start to raise the pedal,the clutch plate has a thickness of 8.5mm and i cant see any air bubbles when it is bled. the car has no mot so cant be tried on the road (would it improve on a drive ?) my other car is a auto so i`m not sure if its right. thanks

When bleeding, you need to have the slave piston pushed fully into the cylinder...your bite should be higher than what you have.

do u mean take it out of the gearbox push the piston in by hand then bleed as normal ?

On ohv cars I get the best results by bleeding the system "solid" against the end circlip. You just need to be careful not to push to hard on the clutch pedal and force the piston out past the circlip....

Then you know all the air is out. Its pretty difficult to get the last bubble out with it all in place....same applies top Sprints but then you need to clamp the piston as there is no circlip holding it in...

Jonners

the bleed nipple is in the top connection? Just checking!
The slave cylinder can be unbolted off the gearbox easily enough (I think! not sure on access now) and then hold the cylinder more vertical? And check the clutch fork pivot pin is still in place (ulc2713)
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005698

I always found the best results were to bleed the system out of the car and refit it complete. I've tried both having the slave fully 'in' and fully 'out' and haven't found either to be better than the other. Well worth cleaning the inside of the slave cylinder whilst it's apart. You can also inspect the condition of the rubber seals.

As already stated I recommend that you check that the pivot pin ULC2713 is still fitted and has not fallen out as the original design was a parallel sided pin that was held in by the tolerance ring 129412 and with wear the tolerance ring would allow the pin to drop out. The later ULC2713 has a larger diameter at the top which stops it dropping out.