The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hello everyone! *Youngster question alert!*

So, I've adjusted my points many many times, I find I usually have my car running well for 2 months/2000 miles, and they need re-adjusting. I don't really know the best way to do it, I just move them a few mm and try to start the car until the revs are higher and turn the idle screw down?? I read something about putting the car in 3rd and pushing it backwards until the block is on a high point or something, but I can't figure out of the life of me how to know where in the cycle it is?? How do you know when its at the correct gap to adjust it? Any tips?

At the moment she's running really rubbish, loads of misfires, idles alright but pulls badly up hills and at low revs, under any strain really.

Thank you!

Hi Karl, have a read of this....
https://dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/1850_Distr ... ts_setting.

I did notice that in the first line it should read " remove the distributor cap ".
You'll probably find the rev; counter reading is all over the place as well. A " few mm" of adjustment to far to much. More like a few thou is whats needed. But I found with my 1850 the points needed removing and cleaning with a fine file every 3,000 miles. So probably best replaced.
I now run a Lumenition electronic ignition which works fine.
If you want to fix it on the bench then there are removal hints here as well.
https://dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/How_To_guides
HTH,
Tony.

Incredible Tony, that was exactly what I was looking for, thank you!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR7-A ... 0738629892

To fit this you do need to remove the distributor and split the shaft (remove a roll pin). But there's no points adjustment again!

I now run a Lumenition electronic ignition which works fine.

I didn't know that you could get a Luminition for the AC Delco. Can you tell me where you got it.

I would definitely recommend a solid state ignition.

Stags (early) are the worst as they use one set of points for a V8 and they rev to 6k+ so the poor points usually last just 1500 miles before replace or adjust.
Sprints are bad too because the distributer wears and the centre shaft flops about causing the gap to vary.
Leccy ignition all the way from me and Luminition in particular is very reliable.

My Britpart kit (just a points and condenser replacement, really) has been going strong since I first fitted it. I'm running a Sprint dizzy with a 45D4 cap and rotor arm. Not original but it works quite well and is easier to work on that the blasted Delco dizzy that Triumph saw fit to inflict upon us 1850 (and TR7) owners.

I have to lose my contacts soon, the days of stopping and adjusting on the roadside are behind me.

AlanH wrote:

I now run a Lumenition electronic ignition which works fine.

I didn't know that you could get a Luminition for the AC Delco. Can you tell me where you got it.

I would definitely recommend a solid state ignition.

Hi Alan, I got mine from Panks Auto Components in Norwich.
I've just tried to look up the web-site and a message comes back saying its about to expire.
I wonder if they have closed down or something.
Anyway the bits you need for the Delco 1850 distributor are ...
PMA60 power module. ( £114.80 )
FK316 fitting kit (£11.20 ) plus VAT and carriage.
And my reason for hanging on to the A.C. Delco design is that the hight voltage side ( rotor arm , dizzy cap ) are a masterpiece of high voltage design with long tracking paths.
HTH,
Tony.

I also run an aldon ignitor inside a Sprint dizzy but with a 45D cap on my TR7 engined 1850.

The AC delco dizzy has the advantages of good HT design and with the cheap kits now available it may be
a better solution. The Sprint dizzie also doesnt really advance as far as the TR7 one which isnt so good.

I wouldn't think it worth spendinh 120 quid on lumenition bits when the Accuspark/Simon BBC or whatever cheapo bits can be had for around 35 quid.

Starting from scratch and with the TR7/1850 Delco dizzy I would go down the Accuspark road.
That being said. I do get sick of the ebay adverts that say the AC delco kit is for a dollie Sprint! I must have written 10 replies to these
stupid ads...

Jonners

I'm beginning to come to the conclusion my distributor might be on the way out!

Today I have spent the day trying to remove the misfire, with very little improvement. The good news is that thanks to all this attention, underneath the misfire, I can hear she's running the smoothest she ever has!

I've cleaned the spark plugs (slightly white, but I don't think she's lean, just additive I think!), checked and cleaned the lead connections, cleaned coil, replaced rotor arm and condenser, cleaned cap, cleaned and set points (which interestingly would only fire at 13-14 gap and were a little more burnt than I expected?), topped up dashpots. New coil on the way tomorrow and fuel filter to be cleaned.

Timing is now very steady but jumping constantly from 8 and 11 BTDC at 900rpm. The curve seems alright to my amateur eye, but continues to give 2 separate readings right up to around 16-18 BTDC. One of the springs is a bit dodgy on the distributor but its always been that way and not caused trouble before with misfires and the like.

Thoughts?

Don't waste money on fuel additive.
Put in Shell V Power, no additive needed on slant engines.

I think these are the right springs, speak to Robsport:
https://www.robsport.co.uk/index.php/co ... Itemid=157

The Robsport springs are much less substantial than the standard springs. I would be interested to know what they say.

Anyway the bits you need for the Delco 1850 distributor are ...
PMA60 power module. ( £114.80 )
FK316 fitting kit (£11.20 ) plus VAT and carriage.

Thanks for that Ian.

The only problem I have with the AC Delco is adjusting the points so, like you, I see no reason to change it if it is converted to electronic ignition.

I agree that additive isn't necessary with the 1850. Just use a higher octane fuel and set the timing to the book figures. I only use 95 RON in the Astra.

It sounds like there's play in the dizzy shaft and/or a problem with the vaccuum advance. That would explain the timing scatter that you have. The points gap will be all over the place too. Electronic ignition will get round this problem. You will have to remove the dizzy shaft to fit electronic ignition so you might as well get the dizzy rebuilt anyway.