The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

May I say I hate hydraulics, they are a pain.

Since I am living under the car trying to get the damen clutch to work, I wondered if it was possible to move the bleed point into the engine bay?

My plan would be to get a pipe flaring tool and the correct union, unscrew the bleed nipple and fix the pipe in instead. Then run it up to the bulkhead. People have mentioned doing this on spitfire/herald forums with 1500 engines and clutchs.

Not sure how to fit a bleed nipple to the top of the pipe, but that must possible.

That way the bleed point could be mounted above the master cylinder and the clutch could be bleed in the engine bay.

Pic borrowed from...

http://cook1e.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/cl ... mbled.html

Hi,
I did this on my car

Its a good idea - but if you bleed it solid off the car why bother?

You need the bleed screw ABOVE the fluid inlet to get rid of the last bubble that has wasted many a man hour....

Jonners

Just for convenience.

Anyway the clutch does work, had rear wheels in air and pressing clutch stopped the wheels from turning. Trouble is, the clutch is at the floor, both cylinders are new, new pipe, no play in pedal, slave as far forward as it will go. Bled by old fashioned way and power bled.

I beginning to believe I have been done by the curse of crap classic parts, I think the slave is the wrong throw. Has anyone got a NOS one which is the right throw I could buy?

Why not use a flexi hose and tie it out of the way when not in use?

Has the release arm pivot pin thingy dropped out of the bell housing?

What's wrong with the slave you had originally? If the bore is too worn for new seals at least
you can use it as a pattern to buy your replacement.



Jonners

SprintMWU773V wrote:Why not use a flexi hose and tie it out of the way when not in use?

Wouldn't you still have to go under the car to open and shut the bleed nipple?

Jon Tilson wrote:Has the release arm pivot pin thingy dropped out of the bell housing?

What's wrong with the slave you had originally? If the bore is too worn for new seals at least
you can use it as a pattern to buy your replacement.



Jonners

The front is in pieces in the garage, it was jammed in the bell housing.

I know I shouldn't, but I am tempted to cut a new slot in the slave and move it forward 15mm.

A flxi pipe would be no different to using copper so long as you can make the bleed nipple air tight.
Is the lever arm stopping short of the gearbox webs. Mine almost touches the box when working ok. If yours is stopping way short it's due to the throw, if it's already close you have another issue.

cleverusername wrote:

SprintMWU773V wrote:Why not use a flexi hose and tie it out of the way when not in use?

Wouldn't you still have to go under the car to open and shut the bleed nipple?

Not necessarily. I was doing some catalogue updates the other day and saw we offer something similar http://www.bighealey.co.uk/austin-heale ... pe-cclu130

Not a Sprint Mike...

If your level is touching that's not good news. Is the weld giving way on the cross shaft?

Jonners

Jonners, you're right. The OP has a 1500HL. The pin for the release arm could well have dropped out.

Just to clarify, the orignal question was about extending the bleed nipple. I don't see why this can't be done. It would make bleeding the clutch a LOT easier. A neater way would be to run a pair of hoses in parallel to the slave cylinder. Don't concentric clutch slaves have this arrangement because they're inside the bellhopusing and therefore inaccessible?

Mark, that is basically the same idea. The hoses would need to be a bit longer though.

On late Marinas, Itals, and possibly some 1500 midgets, the clutch bleed nipple was in the engine bay, using a second pipe, similar to the feed plastic pipe.

This mounted to the bulkhead, adjacent to the master cylinder.

Don't see why you can't do this on a dolly, either with a nos pipe if you can find one, or by making a suitable pipe.

Search Landrover clutch bleed pipe on ebay for some ideas