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1500 crank end float

Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 12:51 pm
by cleverusername
Had another look at the crank while the clutch was depressed and it moved. The curse of the 1500 has struck.

So do I fix or replace?

Replacing the thrust washers doesn't look too hard, but what I need to know is whether such a repair would last or would it fail relatively quickly again?

Option 2, throw engine away and go with another 1500/1300 or even an 1850/tr7.

Opinions welcome

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 4:12 pm
by cliftyhanger
how much movement?

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 4:48 pm
by cleverusername
I can see the pulley move, so about 10mm I would guess, which I gather is not great.

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 5:21 pm
by Jon Tilson
If the thrusts have fallen out then its new motor time. The crank bashes itself against the rear of the block and it isnt pretty.

If they havent (but it sounds like they soon will) then you can fit new ones. Its fiddly in situ but Ive done it on a T2000.

TR7 engine....Nice but needs a new subframe and gearbox too.

Now you know why the clutch doesnt free...

Jonners

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 1:10 am
by Carledo
10mm is a bit unlikely seeing as both thrusts together are only about 6mm thick! But 1mm of movement is a lot and 3-4mm is a missing thrust washer!

Steve

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 1:47 pm
by cleverusername
Carledo wrote:10mm is a bit unlikely seeing as both thrusts together are only about 6mm thick! But 1mm of movement is a lot and 3-4mm is a missing thrust washer!

Steve

Yes my bad, I have the sump off, the play is more like a mm. The thrust washers are not in the sump, they seem to be still in place.

So I think my next move is the calculate the end float so I can work out what combination of washers I need. What is the best way to do this?

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 4:51 pm
by tony g
If you dont have a dial guage you can lever the crank in one direction and measure with feeler blades where the thrust face is. So measure between the crank thrust surface and the thrust washer.

Tony

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 6:00 pm
by Jon Tilson
The wear will probably be on the thrust side as you push the flywheel towards the engine with the clutch, so the inner one.

I would see what oversize is available and go up one...

1mm is 40 thou....they go in 10 thou increments IIRC.

Jonners

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:02 pm
by cleverusername
Thanks for the help, so tomorrow feeler gauge time.

So I suppose the last question is what washers.

I have seen an American site customthrustwashers.com which have alloy washers for triumphs. Anyone tried these? The claim is the alloy is a better wearing baring surface.

Most importantly are there any washers made of cheese which must be avoided?

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 9:15 pm
by James467
Have you tried Moss, you know the 1500 engine is shared with MG Midgets right?

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-mo ... 500cc.html

Personally I have never had a problem with standard thrust bearings and I rag the balls off my Midget.

To do it properly you do really need a dial gauge, I got mine from Machine Mart.

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 1:00 am
by cleverusername
James467 wrote:Have you tried Moss, you know the 1500 engine is shared with MG Midgets right?

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-mo ... 500cc.html

Personally I have never had a problem with standard thrust bearings and I rag the balls off my Midget.

To do it properly you do really need a dial gauge, I got mine from Machine Mart.
Yes I know it is the same engine, my issue is I have no faith in the new parts supplied. To be bunt many after market car parts are utter junk. This is OK when a drop link fails, or a piece of trim doesn't fit. However with a critical engine component I want to be certain that it won't fall to pieces and scrap the engine.

However if you say Moss are OK I might give them ago.

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 7:13 pm
by alangraham
I had the same concerns with my 1500 bottom end a couple of years ago. Being not that mechanically capable I took the car to a Triumph specialist near Darlington. After a quick prise with a crowbar around the crankshaft pulley area, the specialist was able to tell me that the thrust bearings were still in situ.
With the help of club members on this site, I was directed to F W Thornton of Shrewsbury who were able to supply original Vandervelle thrust bearings and big end bearings. Yes I had to pay for it but the job was sorted, and I never sit with the clutch depressed at traffic lights; it's in to neutral now.
The job was done from below, with the engine in situ.

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 8:28 pm
by tinweevil
Moss bearings and thrusts are fine. I used to treat them as a 40k service item and they weren't worn out at that age.

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 6:19 am
by cliftyhanger
I have never tried measuring endfloat to calculate what thrust were needed. They are not (or were not) hugely expensive, so checked what were in the engine, and order a pair that size, on 5 thou and one 10 thou thicker. Then have a play and see what fits best. Would add that gives you enough to cover up to 15 thou of wear, which is a lot!

Re: 1500 crank end float

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 11:35 am
by Jon Tilson
Agree that Vandervell or Glacier thrust washers and bearings are preferable, but Moss and co shift lots
and the stocks of these would soon be exhausted.

Thet tend to do King and County bearings now. I would say these will give you 30k miles and with modern oils
and sensible use....dont sit with the clutch pedal down for ages etc...you should be fine with jiggling them about
at 5 thou intervals...and put the thicker one on the wearing side...

Jonners