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Oil Filter

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 8:45 am
by dave1850
Dear All

I have a spin-on oil filter on my 1850. I went to change oil and filter this weekend and found it stuck fast. After a lot of grunting I have loosened the collar as it fits to the sump now but am struggling to separate the alloy collar from the old filter. Any tips please for separating the 2? I haven't got access to a vice.

Also, how often do owners change filters? I only do around 1000miles per year and a yearly change of filter seems excessive in the circumstances.

Thank you
Dave

Re: Oil Filter

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 10:42 am
by Toledo Man
You will need to put it all back together and use an oil filter wrench to get the oil filter off. I was doing a service on a 2007 Beetle and the oil filter refused to budge. I broke a strap wrench, I put a screwdriver through it and in the end I bought a chain type wrench which got it off. The gorilla who fitted it must've not put any oil on the seal and then over tightened it until it stopped leaking. I would strongly recommend that you replace the filter when you change your engine oil. The price of an oil filter is cheaper than an engine rebuild.

Re: Oil Filter

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 4:31 pm
by Flyfisherman
Dave (TM)

Thats not going to work - with Dave's explaination I gussing that he has removed the filter and the spin off kit has come with it.

Dave (1850)

I assume that the alloy circular section is attached to the top of the filter and the adaptor screw (bit that screws into teh block) is sticking up - so to refit it all you would have to do is screw the whole assembly (filter, alloy body & adaptor screw) back into the block.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID008434

If so the only way that you are going to remove the filter it two find two nut (same thread as the adaptor screw) - run the two nuts down the threaded section lock them togther (same method as if you were removing a stud from a cylinder head) get somebody to hold the filter and using a spanner try and undo the adaptor screw (put the spanner on the first nut that you ran down the threded section) may be better off holding the nuts in a vise if you can get to one.

Paul

Re: Oil Filter

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 10:42 pm
by Jon Tilson
I would see it as providential and go back to the OE style removable element filter.
Some of these spin on adaptors have a lower flow rate.

Jeroen put some pics up on this subject. I'm never going to use one again....

Jonners

Re: Oil Filter

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 10:58 pm
by dave1850
Thank you for your replies. I sounds, Paul that I'll need to find myself a workshop.

regards
Dave

Re: Oil Filter

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 7:35 am
by Toledo Man
I assumed that the "collar" is sandwiched between the spin-on filter and the engine block as per most spin-on conversions. These usually have connections for an oil cooler. If so then by refitting the "collar" to the block the spin-on filter can then be removed with your oil filter wrench of choice. I found that the chain type worked best for me.

Hope this makes more sense.

Re: Oil Filter

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 9:22 am
by cleverusername
This might sound mad, but your oil filter is steel, while the collar is aluminium? Those metals have different expansion rates, in theory if you boil in it a pan it might expand enough to free the thread.

Before attempting this make sure there is nothing that would be damage by water exposure. I think you would be alright if you dried it.

Re: Oil Filter

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 4:32 pm
by SprintMWU773V
I had a similar poor experience with one only when I tightened up the filter it came off the adapter. I don't see the problem with the original filter element, works much better than a spin on. Actually not that messy, better flow and requires less material so is that little bit better for the environment. Pretty much all new cars have gone back to replaceable elements now.