The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

[img][img][/img][/img]Hi every one , I have a 1979 dolomite 1500 hl .
I'm having bother with clutch slip , it only happens in first and second gear.
The car was lying up for 4 years in a garage so when I got it home the slave cylinder was leaking.
I give the car the once over and have
have fitted a new clutch kit
Fitted a new slave cylinder
And fitted new seals to the master cylinder
The old slave cylinder were it goes in to the lock nut and bolt was in further than it was supposed to be,
Some one before me had cut a grove in the cylinder to let it in more ?

I have changed the gear box oil and cleaned out the overdrives filters.
When I had every thing fitted and bleed I could just about get reverse and could not get any forward gears at all with the engine running !

If any one has any answers to my problem could they please share there information to get another dolomite back on the road !!!
Cheers in advance for any information .

First job is to eliminate air in the slave cylinder. You can do this by taking it off and bleeding it solid against some sort of clamp.

There are a few issues with these even when bled. Check the pivot pin for the release bearing carrier hasnt fallen out.

Was the old slave really machined? That makes me suspicious that this was done to hide something else...like the missing pivot pin or excess
crank end float.

Try pulling on the crank pulley. If it moves much I'm afraid you are probably looking at an engine swap as the cheapest way out.

Jonners

Cheers jonners , thankfully there is no movement in the crank pulley ,
When you say to bleed the slave cylinder of the gearbox can you give me more info on this as I have read this somewhere before but could not under stand how it's done ?
I have the gearbox tunnel removed again so it's easy to get at .

Unbolt the slave and hold it at an angle so the bleed screw is uppermost. Arrange some sort of clamp so the slave piston cant come out of the end. Some have circlips but these are quite weak and can be overcome by the hydraulic pressure.
A strong cable tie and a bolt will do the job. Push the slave piston well back in the bore.

Then bleed it until the clutch pedal feels solid. It should bleed quickly as the last bubbles are expelled. Refit and all should then be well. If not then you have some other issues...

Jonners

Cheers again jonner , yea that's what was confusing me about the clamp , I was thinking why you needed to clamp it when the sir clip was there but didn't realise that the clip wouldn be strong enough , I will get at it today and I'll keep you posted on how it all goes ?????

Cheers again jonner for your time and knowledge , it's greatly appreciated .

Ok was doing a bit of work to the car this week and it seems to have got a bit better !
The car drives well and pulls in all the gears and o/d comes in and out as it should but if I say "dump the clutch in 2nd or 3rd she just revs up as if she's slipping ?
The master cylinder is nice and free as is the slave cylinder , fells like something is not releasing quick enough after the clutch gets a quickish jig , could it be something to do with the clutch fork or maybe there's still air in the system ?
Getting very frustrating now !

You could just have a worn clutch plate and that is causing some slip.

If you accelerate hard from say 25 mph in top gear do the revs rise consistent with the speed gain or faster?

You could also have slipping in the overdrive clutch cones. I hope not as thats not a cheap fix....

If the pedal feels "good" from the top of travel and you bled it solid it must be air free. Slow or sticky forks etc are very unlikely.
Its not really a fork on an ohv...more of a pivoted beam with a bearing carrier.

Jonners