The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Anybody know what is involved in fitting an engine from a manual to an auto box.

Which model?

Which model?

Good question ! - 1850

You will need to strip the rear of the engine to the block and swap over all the auto bits onto it, backplate, converter plate with all its correct spacers etc. most importantly, you will have to remove the clutch spigot bearing from the back of the crank.

Steve

most importantly, you will have to remove the clutch spigot bearing from the back of the crank.

Can that be done without removing the crank?

If anyone wants a 1500 auto engine and box let me know...

You will also need an auto gearbox cross member.
the brake pedal is also larger
wiring loom bit for the inhibitor switch

The spigot bush can be removed without taking out the crank, use a length of bar that is a tight fit in the bush, fill the spigot bush with greasem fit bar in hole and hit with mallet, this should eject the spigot bearing.

And finally....

You need to change the location of the backplate mounting bolts. If you start with a manual you will find 2 of the backplate mounting bolts will foul
on the torque converter bolts when you attach the converter.

If you dont do this you will have to take it all off again.... Tee shirt is in my posession and I can send it to you but it needs a wash.

If you trawl back through Toledo man's epic resto saga you can see where he does some ace pics on replacing his busted flexi plate. There is a great shot showing where the bolts should be and how to get the flexiplat the right way round, which is also non obvious IIRC.

The spigot bush trick works but needs a tight fitting rod or grease goes all over the place.... Mucky....have plenty of tissues to hand.

Jonners

I am a bit confused about crankshafts.

The works manual states that after engine WF23467 there was a change to 8 bolt fixings.

Rimmers offer two types of flex plate but not crankshafts or flywheels so can I safely asssume that the crank on the manual engine will have eight fixing holes (it's a 1978 engine with a higher serial number).

Yes early cranks had 6 bolts...

Just use the number of bolts you have....

Jonners

AlanH wrote:I am a bit confused about crankshafts.

The works manual states that after engine WF23467 there was a change to 8 bolt fixings.

Rimmers offer two types of flex plate but not crankshafts or flywheels so can I safely asssume that the crank on the manual engine will have eight fixing holes (it's a 1978 engine with a higher serial number).

Alan I thought you had an auto already? Is it that engine that is past it and your'e looking to put a manual engine with your auto gearbox?
Rich

Alan I thought you had an auto already? Is it that engine that is past it and your'e looking to put a manual engine with your auto gearbox?

You are correct Rich, if you look at my other thread you will see that the engine has nasty noises.

I have, what sounds like, a good manual doner engine so I am putting that in.

Getting there slowly but having the usual surprises.

The user manual says - 'Remove the bolts securing the drive plate to the crankshaft flange'. 'Withdraw the drive plate'.

Yeah sure !! took me ages.