The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

I recently converted my toledo to TR7 engine, so basically what you are thinking of.

Decide what gearbox to use. I opted for sprint as substantially stronger. So I went with a sprint axle and prop too. Not sure how swappable all those parts are (ie which if any prop would fit an 1850 box with sprint axle, or the other way round)

Once you have decided which major parts, you will need to either swap the front subframe, or I did the alternative (often frowned upon) and chopped the OHV engine mount towers off, plated over and bolted OEM jag e-type engine mounts to the subframe. Then fabricated brackets from the engine to the new engine mount (couple of hours to do all that, very simple if you weld)

I also went alternative with radiator, and used a passat rad (£28 delivered, very pleased with it) and a bit of replumbing including a header tank. The obvious answer is all dolomite stuff, but it is getting expensive....

I also had to change the gearbox tunnel, should be available or it is possible a OHV type could be modified.

I am sure other will have their take on the conversion too

Gearbox choice is really down to how you drive. Mine gets a hard time, and I REALLY want to get out and do some Targa rallies soon. When I get enough free time at a weekend to coincide with my Navigator...

The easy and bolt in conversion will require the following parts from an 1850 (or buy a rotted out donor)

Engine complete with all ancillaries and mounts.
Front subframe.
Radiator and hoses.
Gearbox.
Gearbox crossmember and mount.
Clutch slave cylinder and pipe.
Gearbox tunnel.
Propshaft.
Exhaust, downpipe at least maybe middle section as well.
If your 1500 was built 78 ish or later the diff is the same at 3.63. Earlier cars have a 3.89 but it will still do to start with and can be swapped later.

If you are handy with spanners, lucky with tight fittings and have access to an engine crane, you can do it in a weekend!

HTH, Steve

Don't forget that the wiring in the engine bay will need swapping round as the battery sits on the opposite side on an 1850.

Having done this conversion a few times I suggest you first of all decide on your budget and how much power you want.

My own recommendation would be TR7 based. You can then do this a few ways. If you can cut and weld you can modify the 1500 subframe but I would recommend either a dolly 1850 or Sprint one.

The TR7 is just about on the upper margins for the small car gearbox, but it is doable. You will need an 1850 single rail box to go with your
current tunnel. If your 1500 is already fitted with overdrive you already have the right prop shaft and centre gearbox mounting. You can even use the same overdrive unit and gearbox mainshaft and case if you have to and rebuild it with TR7 4 speed or 1850 innards and input shaft.

You will need to cut a section from the TR7 engine end plate to clear the rack or use an 1850 one.

The "stronger" option is to use a doly Sprint gearbox prop tunnel and axle, but these are not as common as they once were.

You will also need substantial changes to the front wiring loom so best get one from a Sprint or 1850 to make life easier.

Jonners

got 1850 subframe here in good condition (not faffed with)

I may have what you need but how quickly do you want it?

I have a car that I have been using as a doner but most of the things I have used will still be on your 1500.

Mainly it's all there (in various states) - running engine, gearbox (4 speed), sub=frame, propshaft, back axle etc.

I still need a few bits off it so it's not available immediately.

DOH, forgot the loom! But I have an 1850 front loom if you need one. And a useable 1850 tunnel housing.

Steve

Good choice of engine.
In addition to the above items, if this is the one advertised on here you will need and inlet manifold, a water bypass tube, carbs, linkages and 1850 throttle cable.
Air box and filters: 1850 S.U. ones are scarce so think K & Ns.
In addition to the exhaust down pipe you will need the 1850 exhaust bracket.
Engine mounts.
1850 starter motor.
1850 clutch cover and driven plate.
1850 clutch slave cylinder / pipe and maybe a master cylinder. Not sure if that is 1850 compatible.
Make sure you get the clutch release fork and release bearing with the gearbox.

Go for an overdrive gearbox . It is much nicer.

1850 fan belt. The alternator should be O.K.
Then there is the paperwork: Insurance. engine change on the log-book etc; ( Provenance?)

Good Luck,
Tony.

Or there's an 1850 on eBay being sold by a member:
It would save you a LOT of work and unknown (insurance modification, DVLA issues) and you can sell your 1500.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322326984710? ... EBIDX%3AIT

GTS290N wrote:Or there's an 1850 on eBay being sold by a member:
It would save you a LOT of work and unknown (insurance modification, DVLA issues) and you can sell your 1500.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322326984710? ... EBIDX%3AIT

That seems like a no brainer to me. If we continually upgrade 1500 models to 1850/Sprint spec there will be a shortage of the smaller engined cars for younger drivers/those on a budget to buy as starter classics. Hypocritical perhaps, as I did the same thing myself many years ago, but that was when these cars were far more abundant.

If we continually upgrade 1500 models to 1850/Sprint spec there will be a shortage of the smaller engined cars for younger drivers/those on a budget to buy

I would agree with that. There are a lot of things that you don't think of when doing this type of project. As I said above, I have a car that would that could be used as a 'kit' to make the change relatively simply and cheap buy why?

1500s are much easier to work on ( I recently spent a joyous afternoon getting the starter motor back on my 1850) and the parts are plentiful and cheap.

Unless you really like the colour combination and the body is pristine why not move it on and buy an 1850.

GTS290N wrote:Or there's an 1850 on eBay being sold by a member:
It would save you a LOT of work and unknown (insurance modification, DVLA issues) and you can sell your 1500.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322326984710? ... EBIDX%3AIT

I agree with you, Bill.


An 1850 engined 1500HL will be a lot dearer to insure than a 1850HL (£190 as opposed to £90 for me) and if I was going down that route of modifying
I would go for something more current like a Ford Zetec or (better still a chain driven) Duratec). This would give way better than a Sprint acceleration and rather
good fuel economy also.




Ian.

Sounds a lot for modified insurance?
My zetec spit and my modded Toledo is £158, unlimited mileage etc via peter james.

There is an MX5 engined one for sale, all work already done...

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=31945

I'm in the middle of such a conversion also my 1300 with the new project engine and od gearbox but what exactly doesn't fit when using the 1300 subframe? Can't you use it and just need an crossmember? It will take a while before the engine goes into the car so didn't investigate yet. I only have sprint subframes and don't want to cut these and like to reuse the 1300 one.

Jeroen.