The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

I've fitted the TR7 2.0 to my 1500Tc. But I have something wrong with the electrics. I cannot get it to turn over on the key. I also don't have the battery light come on on the dash. When I turn the key fully there is nothing, not even a click...

I'm pretty sure I may have the wires to the starter wrong. I'm using the Starter that came with the Tr7 engine which has a nut missing from the left hand stud, I've connected the bunch of browns to the right hand stud. Brown/yellow wire to the small spade and the pink/white (I think) to the bigger spade.

Any help would be appreciated

All the best

Darren

Did you fit an engine earth strap?

xvivalve wrote:Did you fit an engine earth strap?

Hi Alun

Yes, but was unsure where to put so I bolted through the engine lift eye bolt at the front of the engine. Is there a better place to put it

Many thanks

Darren

TR7 would have a pre-engaed starter? and the 1500 is inertia, just a thought.

I assume you have swapped the loom out, does your new loom have the auto trans inhibitor bypass bit on the gearbox loom extension? If this is missing the starter wont turn.
Your wiring at the starter is correct so,
2 tests, 1) check for current at the white/red wire at the starter whilst someone holds the key on start.
2) run a jump lead from the starter pin where the red/white wire was, direct to battery +ve and see if it turns over then.

Steve

Magenta Auto Sprint wrote:TR7 would have a pre-engaed starter? and the 1500 is inertia, just a thought.

Not all 1500s have inertial starters, HLs have pre engaged. If he has swapped the loom for an 1850 one, the wiring and the starter would tally which it seems to from his description.

Steve

Carledo wrote:I assume you have swapped the loom out, does your new loom have the auto trans inhibitor bypass bit on the gearbox loom extension? If this is missing the starter wont turn.
Your wiring at the starter is correct so,
2 tests, 1) check for current at the white/red wire at the starter whilst someone holds the key on start.
2) run a jump lead from the starter pin where the red/white wire was, direct to battery +ve and see if it turns over then.

Steve

Steve

Thank you for the reply

I haven't swapped the loom out, I was hoping to have come up to my mums by now but she's waiting for an op, so no point coming up until she goes in, and then collect the bits from you....

Not sure what you mean by auto trans bypass bit?

All I have done is temporarily extended the wires from the alternator and the oil pressure switch and to coil, the rest were the right length just, apart from the 2 wires that go to spade terminals on the starter and were extended a few inches each.

I was hoping to get in running and then take it all back out again, so that the engine bay can be painted when it's a bit warmer.

Many thanks

Darren

Magenta Auto Sprint wrote:TR7 would have a pre-engaed starter? and the 1500 is inertia, just a thought.

Mine was Pre-engaged

Cheers

Darren

DazasDolly wrote:

Carledo wrote:I assume you have swapped the loom out, does your new loom have the auto trans inhibitor bypass bit on the gearbox loom extension? If this is missing the starter wont turn.
Your wiring at the starter is correct so,
2 tests, 1) check for current at the white/red wire at the starter whilst someone holds the key on start.
2) run a jump lead from the starter pin where the red/white wire was, direct to battery +ve and see if it turns over then.

Steve

Steve

Thank you for the reply

I haven't swapped the loom out, I was hoping to have come up to my mums by now but she's waiting for an op, so no point coming up until she goes in, and then collect the bits from you....

Not sure what you mean by auto trans bypass bit?

All I have done is temporarily extended the wires from the alternator and the oil pressure switch and to coil, the rest were the right length just, apart from the 2 wires that go to spade terminals on the starter and were extended a few inches each.

I was hoping to get in running and then take it all back out again, so that the engine bay can be painted when it's a bit warmer.

Many thanks

Darren

Not sure the 1500TC even has a trans bypass bit, If it has, it will be on the bit of the loom where the reverse lights go on. Since I hadn't heard from you in a while, I assumed you'd got a loom more local or something.
If all you've done is extend a few wires, it SHOULD work!
The missing nut on the starter needs to be replaced, as this carries high current from solenoid to starter. But you should still hear the solenoid clunk in, even if it doesn't turn over, if this was the fault.
And check and clean BOTH ends of the earth lead. But do the tests I suggested anyway, it will tell you if it is the wiring or the starter at fault. And that's a start!

Steve

Apologies Steve I thought I had sent a message back in January and just noticed it's in the draft folder I had some good news regards the loom connector which is white not grey.

I'll have a play tomorrow after work, I'll see if I can find the gearbox loom and add that too just in case

Many thanks

Darren

If the ignition light on the dash is not on then the car won't start. Check the bulb and then check the wire back to the alternator.

I also think that the ignition light not comming on may be significant. Assuming that it worked before and is wired to the alternator correctly, I think I'd check there's continuity between the battery positive terminal and alternator connector and the 12 volts to the alternator earth side as well. I take it you've a multimeter with an voltage/resistance ranges for that.

Graham

Carledo wrote: 2 tests, 1) check for current at the white/red wire at the starter whilst someone holds the key on start.
2) run a jump lead from the starter pin where the red/white wire was, direct to battery +ve and see if it turns over then.

Steve

I was just getting started and I had a call to say my daughter had been hurt by a horse at the stables so spent the evening in a and e.

What I did get done was I now have the ignition light working the wire had detached from the crimped spade connector. I didn't have anybody about to check no 1 Steve. So I had a bit of a hairy moment, I connected the jump lead to the red/white spade terminal on the solenoid. It started sparking by just having the other end on the concrete floor , anyway connected to the battery + terminal and there was nothing.

When I turn the key all the lights go dim like it's trying, no sounds, nothing unless I really am going deaf

I'll try and get back into the workshop tomorrow once I finish work.

Many thanks

Darren

You're not gonna like this, but it sounds like starter is duff, a massive internal short or similar. This could be why the lights dim but no sound. But before you rip it off, does the engine turn over by hand with the starter in place? The starter may have thrown in once and jammed. Or it may have jammed when bolted up and needs a spacer to work properly.

Assuming for a moment that the engine DOES turn by hand, then it's time to pull the starter off and test it on the floor.

And if the engine WON'T turn by hand, its time to pull the starter off and see if it will turn then! (I'm assuming that you checked the engine was turning freely before fitting it!)

Steve

Carledo wrote:You're not gonna like this, but it sounds like starter is duff, a massive internal short or similar. This could be why the lights dim but no sound. But before you rip it off, does the engine turn over by hand with the starter in place? The starter may have thrown in once and jammed. Or it may have jammed when bolted up and needs a spacer to work properly.

Assuming for a moment that the engine DOES turn by hand, then it's time to pull the starter off and test it on the floor.

And if the engine WON'T turn by hand, its time to pull the starter off and see if it will turn then! (I'm assuming that you checked the engine was turning freely before fitting it!)

Steve

Hello Steve

The engine was turning freely before I fitted it, I'll check tomorrow if it turns over by hand still. When I fitted the starter there was a very thin spacer that came with it, I couldn't get the starter to fit with it so I took it away. I have another exhaust manifold being delivered tomorrow with both studs on so having taken the other one off will give me a bit more room to play with

Cheers

Darren